38 Essential Dining Spots in New England

A rugged coastline, a winding road, and a gravel lot. Fishing boats bob in the restless waters, and the dense forests on the nearby islands form a jagged outline against the sky. The breeze is crisp, even in June. I find myself in this picturesque New England scene, seeking out — what else? — the perfect lobster roll.

My friend and fellow food writer, Amy Traverso, has steered me to McLoons Lobster in South Thomaston on Maine’s midcoast. The shack’s red sign proudly announces the pie of the day: strawberry rhubarb. The season’s small, intensely flavorful blueberries aren’t quite ready yet. No matter. I indulge in the “lobster Rolls Royce,” a double serving so fresh, sweet, and perfectly cooked that I’ll never settle for a lobster roll in a city restaurant again until this memory fades.

During my recent travels through New England, I had my fill of lobster rolls, fried clams, and chowder — all essential dishes. Yet, beyond these staples, my culinary journey was enriched by a wide array of flavors: Portuguese stews, Turkish dolmas, Cantonese pork and shrimp dumplings, and inventive dishes like “Mexican fried rice” — all contributing to the Northeast’s vibrant and eclectic food scene.

Our survey spans six states: it starts in New Haven, Connecticut, one of the nation’s pizza capitals, and stretches all the way to Burlington, Vermont, just 71 miles from the Canadian border. Given the vastness of the region, no one person could cover it all, so 11 local food writers and experts joined me in narrowing down countless exceptional restaurants to just 38 essentials. Their local knowledge truly elevates this list to something special.

Five years ago, this list would have looked quite different — or at least far more limited in scope. (As it stands, Boston takes a hefty 10 spots, but with nearly 5 million people in the metro area, it’s not surprising.) Thanks to trailblazers like Eventide in Portland, Maine, and Oberlin in Providence, Rhode Island, the range of selections now reflects a surge in culinary creativity. With a blend of bold chefs and keepers of tradition, New England has become an even more dynamic and exciting food destination.

As I review the selections we’ve highlighted, I’m transported back to the small towns that are the heart of New England, where remarkable meals are set against unique backdrops like working farms, hydro-powered mills, converted Carvel stands, and hidden spots in the woods. No list can encompass every gem, but like any Dinogo guide, this list invites you to explore and debate. That said, I thoroughly enjoyed my share of lobster rolls, both slathered in mayo and drenched in hot butter. I stand by our pick of McLoons. — Bill Addison, restaurant editor

The 38 top dining spots in New England, mapped out! →

CONNECTICUT

Sally’s Apizza

New Haven, Connecticut

WHAT: The best pizza in New Haven, without a doubt. WHY: You might have a different opinion, and some of the other writers on this project might too. But after sampling the town's finest pies twice for Dinogo, I’ve consistently reached the same conclusion: Sally’s offers the perfect balance of tangy tomato sauce, crispy charred crust, and a light touch with toppings. For a true pizza experience, try the tomato pie with garlic and no cheese (aside from a dusting of pecorino Romano). The place is dimly lit and simple, open only for dinner, with no-frills service from waitstaff in mailman-style shorts year-round. It’s the quintessential Italian-American pizzeria and a national gem. — B.A.

237 Wooster StreetNew Haven, CT 06511(203) 624-5271 | sallysapizza.com

Sea Swirl

Mystic, Connecticut

WHAT: A former Carvel stand located just east of Mystic Seaport, now dishing out some of New England's finest fried clams. WHY: These aren’t just any clams — we're talking whole-belly clams, tender and sweet, with a crisp, salty shell that perfectly encases the ocean’s rich flavors. Beyond clams, Sea Swirl offers an array of expertly fried seafood, from scallops and shrimp to oysters. Of all the clam shacks along Connecticut’s coastline, Sea Swirl’s outdoor picnic tables and the smell of the tide coming in make its setting the most inviting. — Michael Stern

30 Williams Avenue Mystic, CT 06355(860) 536-3452 | seaswirlofmystic.com

The Place

Guilford, Connecticut

WHAT: An outdoor Mytoury that feels more like a hidden grove, located two miles inland from the beach. Guests sit on tree stumps instead of chairs, and everything is cooked over a large open flame grill. WHY: At The Place, there’s only one menu — a hand-painted wooden sign that stands proudly above the sunburned families (and the occasional well-behaved dog) who have flocked to this seasonal gem since 1971. If you watch closely, you’ll see the same ritual play out at every table: First, a slab of iron grating covered with a dozen roasted clams drenched in cocktail sauce and butter, followed by lobster, barbecue chicken, and sometimes bluefish. Most diners also order a heap of smoky corn still wrapped in its charred husks. It’s the only side dish available, but you're welcome to BYO anything else, including a six-pack from the nearby gas station. — Helen Rosner

901 Boston Post RoadGuilford, CT 06437(203) 453-9276 | theplaceguilford.com

Ted’s Restaurant

Meriden, Connecticut

WHAT: The birthplace of the famed central Connecticut steamer, better known as the steamed cheeseburger, a beloved creation served with flair by this cozy little joint since 1959. WHY: Ground beef patties and blocks of cheddar are placed in separate metal trays inside a steam cabinet, where they’re vapor-cooked to perfection. The result is a burger that’s irresistibly juicy, with the cheese transforming into a pearly, viscous mass that seeps into every crevice of the tender meat. It’s pure umami in every bite. — M.S.

1046 Broad StreetMeriden, CT 06450203-237-6660 | tedsrestaurant.com

MAINE

Drifters Wife

Portland, Maine

WHAT: A natural wine bar and contemporary American bistro that, much like the city it calls home, punches well above its weight at every turn. WHY: Powered by an infectious enthusiasm and an encyclopedic knowledge of natural wines and their makers, co-owners Peter and Orenda Hale have assembled an impressive 200-bottle list. This carefully curated selection is complemented perfectly by chef Ben Jackson’s menu. A spring bowl of duck consommé paired with hen of the woods mushrooms is so irresistible, it begs for a second helping. Meanwhile, house-made yogurt offers a refreshing contrast to the savory roasted chicken, carrots, and lamb’s quarters. While the kitchen and wine cellar push boundaries, it’s the genuine hospitality in the front of the house that truly makes this an East End standout. — Anestes Fotiades

63 Washington AvePortland, ME 04101(207) 805-1336 | drifterswife.com

Eventide Oyster Co.

Portland, Maine

WHAT: The vibrant seafood sensation that redefines the modern oyster bar, not just in New England, but across the country. Eventide is no hidden gem: no matter when you arrive or the time of day, you can expect at least a short wait. WHY: Eventide boasts nearly 20 varieties of rugged, pristine oysters sourced from Maine and beyond, each resting on a slab of granite ice. Their names evoke their origins, creating a mental map: Pleasant Bay, John’s River, Basket Island, Dodge Cove. Savor them as they are, or pair with classic condiments like red wine mignonette, or adventurous ones like horseradish or kimchi ice. The menu shines with blackboard specials like fish crudos and octopus terrine, but the crown jewel remains their signature lobster roll, made unforgettable by a trio of ingredients: browned butter, dried milk powder, and lemon. — B.A.

86 Middle StreetPortland, ME 04101(207) 774-8538 | eventideoysterco.com

Long Grain

Camden, Maine

WHAT: A must-visit neighborhood gem tucked among a quirky row of businesses in the charming town of Camden, owned by the talented husband-and-wife duo Ravin Nakjaroen and Paula Palakawong. The menu draws inspiration from Nakjaroen’s Thai roots, yet branches out into a diverse range of pan-Asian flavors — though his precise and thoughtful approach defies any simple labels. WHY: Comforting dishes like fried rice showcase remarkable attention to detail, each grain perfectly separate, paired with fresh local seafood such as Maine crab or smoked mackerel. But no visit is complete without sampling Nakjaroen’s authentic Thai offerings, like pad kee mao (spicy stir-fried rice noodles with local veggies) and a perfectly balanced panang curry, rich with flavor but never overly sweet. — B.A.

31 Elm StreetCamden, ME 04843(207) 236-9001 | longgraincamden.com

The Lost Kitchen

Freedom, Maine

WHAT: A dreamy destination restaurant nestled in an 1834 hydro-powered millhouse in the tiny town of Freedom, Maine, with a population of just 719. Here’s the catch: securing a dinner reservation is one of the most elusive feats in the country. Chef-owner Erin French opens up reservations on April 1 for the entire year, and they’re often snapped up within hours. WHY: For those fortunate enough to snag a reservation, the experience is nothing short of magical. Picture the sounds of a nearby dam, the changing aromas as French and her team prepare eight courses in the fading daylight, and the artistry of her flavors. A starter of oysters, fragrant with basil and violet, might kick off the meal, followed by lamb loin with pickled rhubarb and feta — a true celebration of spring. The food is extraordinary, but it’s the serene atmosphere and communal joy that makes the experience unforgettable. — B.A.

22 Mill StreetFreedom, ME 04941(207) 382-3333

Maine Diner

Wells, Maine

WHAT: A classic roadside diner offering a true taste of Downeast charm, from decadent chowder to traditional Indian pudding served à la mode, and even a lobster omelet for breakfast. While seafood takes center stage, comforting Yankee classics like baked beans, chicken pot pie, and mac-and-cheese are staples too. WHY: No comfort food compares to Grandma’s lobster pie — a rich, buttery casserole brimming with succulent lobster and topped with crunchy cracker crumbs. It’s hands-down one of the finest dishes you’ll find in New England. — M.S.

2265 Post Rd.Wells, ME 04090(207) 646-4441 | mainediner.com

McLoons Lobster

South Thomaston, Maine

WHAT: A classic Maine lobster shack that delivers both breathtaking views and a lobster roll that stands out from the rest. WHY: Lobster rolls are the gold standard of Maine’s seafood scene, often served in bulk with mayo-drenched meat that’s a bit too bland. But McLoons breaks the mold: mayo is spread on the bun, not the lobster, and hot butter is always available as an alternative. For the ultimate taste test, order a half-and-half roll to choose your favorite. — A.T.

315 Island RoadSouth Thomaston, Maine 04858(207) 593-1382 | mcloonslobster.com

Palace Diner

Biddeford, Maine

WHAT: A vintage diner car, dating back to the pre-Depression era, nestled in the historic town of Biddeford, Maine, that will completely change the way you think about traditional diner food. WHY: Chefs Chad Conley and Greg Mitchell brought this 90-year-old gem back to life with a menu full of diner classics (burgers, breakfast sandwiches, and pancakes) done with a creative twist that makes the wait for one of the 15 coveted seats totally worth it. Grilled grapefruit becomes a revelation, while the tuna melt, stacked high with tuna salad and pickles, is lifted by a cool crunch of iceberg lettuce. The challah French toast, thick-cut and bruleed on top, delivers a natural sweetness. — A.F.

18 Franklin StreetBiddeford, ME 04101(207) 284-0015 | palacedinerme.com

Primo

Rockland, Maine

WHAT: Chef Melissa Kelly’s tribute to the flavors of midcoast Maine, blending a restaurant with an expansive, organic farm. WHY: While many restaurants boast about their farm-to-table approach, Primo takes it to another level, sitting on four and a half acres of lush farmland. Melissa Kelly doesn’t just lead the culinary operation; she also runs the farm that provides the produce. Dinner may begin with a walk through the garden, wine in hand, before moving into the charming two-story building, which has been transformed into a rustic yet refined restaurant. The menu, highlighting freshly harvested vegetables and pasture-raised meats, reflects Kelly’s time at Chez Panisse: snap peas blistered with sea salt, thick-cut pork chops served with roasted Brussels sprouts. Upstairs, the relaxed lounge serves up house-made charcuterie, wood-fired pizzas, and fresh oysters, creating the best casual taverna experience in midcoast Maine. — Korsha Wilson

2 Main StreetRockland, ME 04841(207) 596-0770 | primorestaurant.com

Tandem Coffee + Bakery

Portland, Maine

WHAT: A celebrated roastery and bakery founded by former Blue Bottle team members Will and Kathleen Pratt, offering some of the finest pastries in Portland with a dash of millennial coffeehouse charm. WHY: What began as a beloved coffee shop in Portland's East End expanded to the West End in 2015, bringing on skilled baker Briana Holt, who creates inventive takes on classic baked goods that strike the perfect balance of sweet and savory. Start your day with one of her buttery biscuit sandwiches filled with jam or a comforting bowl of turmeric steel-cut oats. (And don’t miss a slice of her plum and black pepper pie.) For lunch, the capicola sandwich with chile-infused honey, banana peppers, and chickweed on seeded focaccia is a lunchtime favorite that will have you coming back for more. — A.F.

742 Congress StreetPortland, ME 04101(207) 805-1887 | tandemcoffee.com

Tao Yuan

Brunswick, Maine

WHAT: The flagship restaurant of chef Cara Stadler in this college town, where she showcases her remarkable skills as a dumpling master. WHY: Almost a decade ago, Stadler and her mother, Cecile, operated an underground restaurant in Beijing, where Stadler honed her craft at just 21. Now based in Maine, where the family spent summers, her cooking blends pan-Asian influences with a particular focus on Chinese flavors. The menu features standout dishes like seared scallops drenched in XO sauce with a touch of Iberico ham, fresh greens with young ginger and sesame dressing, and her signature dumplings, including open-faced shu mai filled with pork and shrimp. — B.A.

22 Pleasant StreetBrunswick, ME 04011(207) 725-9002 | tao-yuan.me

MASSACHUSETTS

Craigie on Main

Cambridge, Massachusetts

WHAT: The American bistro at its finest. WHY: Chef-owner Tony Maws was a pioneer of the high-low dining concept. In his spacious, brick-walled Mytoury, he curates tasting menus that might move from Maine amberjack sashimi to refreshing green gazpacho, tender garganelli with clams and pork belly, a succulent lamb course, and a decadent bitter chocolate terrine. However, his à la carte options are equally impressive. His roasted chicken is impeccable, and the bar serves one of the boldest burgers in the country—ground fresh with bone marrow and miso, topped with cheddar, and sandwiched in a towering milk-bread bun. Maws only serves 18 burgers per night, so get there by 5:30 p.m. if you want to claim one. — B.A.

853 Main StreetCambridge, MA 02139(617) 497-5511 | craigieonmain.com

Eastern Standard

Boston, Massachusetts

WHAT: Garrett Harker, a respected Boston restaurateur, brings New England the brasserie experience it’s long deserved. WHY: This lively Kenmore Square gem is a crowd favorite: featuring expertly crafted cocktails, beloved bistro staples like steak frites and roasted chicken, all paired with impeccable service (rumor has it they keep a file on every guest). While the white linens may suggest formality, there’s no pretense here. The restaurant stays open late into the night, and the bartenders even climb on top of the bar to jot down late-night specials on the mirror. — K.W.

528 Commonwealth Avenue Boston, MA 02215(617) 532-9100 | easternstandardboston.com

Gypsy Apple Bistro

Shelburne Falls, Massachusetts

WHAT: A humble eight-seat French bistro tucked away in Western Massachusetts, offering a peaceful retreat from city life, run by husband-and-wife chefs Michaelangelo Wescott and Ami Aubin. The intimate space remains one of the rare havens where consistency, creativity, and warm hospitality are all equally cherished. WHY: The menu may evoke nostalgia with classics like duck confit and house-cured gravlax, but Wescott lets his inspirations guide him, offering daily specials that can range from hand-torn pasta to scrapple with duck egg, or even house-made ramen. In winter, a slow-braised pork shank with berry jus becomes the perfect antidote to icy roads, while summer brings the brightness of fresh trout and local cheeses layered over sun-warmed tomatoes. Once you visit, you’ll find yourself a regular for life. — Sally Ekus

65 Bridge StreetShelburne Falls, MA 01370(413) 625-6345 | gypsyapplebistro.com

La Brasa

Somerville, Massachusetts

WHAT: A live-fire culinary marvel by the talented Daniel Bojorquez, this standout opened in 2014 in the depths of Somerville’s untapped frontier. WHY: After a significant mentorship under Boston’s fine dining luminary Frank McClelland, Bojorquez, born in Sonora and trained in Puebla, blends his diverse influences into a dynamic menu of bold, vibrant, and refined dishes. Charred poblano onion fondue serves as the perfect contrast to the crisp-skinned, wood-fire-roasted chicken. The “Mexican Fried Rice” is a fusion of flavors from arroz mexicano (bright, sofrito-infused), Chinese fried rice (with smoky wok hei), and Spanish paella (crusty socarrat). Additionally, no matter where you stand on the charge-for-bread debate, the complimentary extras—like luscious neon-green olive oil and smoke-kissed ash butter—more than make up for it. — Jolyon Helterman

124 BroadwaySomerville, MA 02145(617) 764-1412 | labrasasomerville.com

Loyal Nine

Cambridge, Massachusetts

WHAT: A bold, thought-provoking restaurant that draws on New England’s culinary traditions without falling into old-timey clichés. WHY: Chef Marc Sheehan takes ‘eat local’ to the next level, moving beyond just sourcing ingredients. Right near Harvard, he digs deep into New England’s culinary history, reviving Colonial-era dishes like sallets and soused bluefish, but with a modern twist. Gone are the heavy, Puritan influences, replaced with bright, unexpected notes like chamomile vinegar, sunchoke-walnut jam, and pork-fat hollandaise, creating a fresh and authentic take on New England cuisine for today’s palate. — Amy Traverso

660 Cambridge StreetCambridge, MA 02141(617) 945-2576 | loyalninecambridge.com

O Ya

Boston, Massachusetts

WHAT: A nationally renowned izakaya, opened in 2007 by Tim and Nancy Cushman, tucked into a charmingly small corner of a restored firehouse. WHY: While the menu may seem like a random assortment of ingredients, the dishes come together with the precision and artistry of edible masterpieces. Kombu-braised whole shallot ‘nigiri’ sparkle with molecular soy pearls that mimic the richness of Osetra caviar. Salt-crusted A5 wagyu melts effortlessly into buttery goodness. Even nostalgic dishes have been reimagined with unexpected finesse—raw hamachi sits on delicate rice balls, topped with a fiery banana-pepper mousse, then drenched in truffle oil before a creme-brulee torch is used to create an intriguing savory-marshmallow finish you never knew you needed. Come prepared to splurge. — J.H.

9 East StreetBoston, MA 02111(617) 654-9900 | o-ya.restaurant

The Prairie Whale

Great Barrington, Massachusetts

WHAT: A rustic yet sophisticated retreat in the Berkshires where rural charm meets urban sensibility. WHY: Great Barrington has long been a cultural crossroads, thanks to the influence of the nearby Taconic State Parkway, especially when it comes to its food scene. Mark Firth, of Marlow & Sons fame, traded city life for the farm, bringing with him a farm-to-table ethos that permeates every aspect of his restaurant. The Prairie Whale features reclaimed wood décor, cornhole games on the front lawn, and ingredients sourced directly from Firth’s own farm, where he raises sheep and pigs (hence the restaurant’s name). The menu offers refined takes on hearty rustic dishes, like potato-leek soup with a poached egg, and pork goulash served with braised cabbage and spaetzle. No frills, no website, and no reservations. — A.T.

178 Main StreetGreat Barrington, MA 01230(413) 528-5050 | facebook.com/PrairieWhale

Row 34

Boston, Massachusetts

WHAT: A seafood lover’s dream, where classic New England favorites are expertly reimagined with modern flair by the Island Creek crew, known for supplying top-tier bivalves from Duxbury, MA, to premier U.S. restaurants. WHY: There’s no better place to enjoy pristine raw-bar selections, including the renowned Row 34 oysters, with their intense, mineral-rich merroir, akin to French Belons. Both Maine-style lobster rolls (creamy mayo) and Connecticut-style (buttery warmth) are perfected here, alongside anything that hits the fryer or grill. Pair your seafood feast with the restaurant’s impressive selection of highbrow sours and Old-World vins blancs. — J.H.

383 Congress StreetBoston, MA 02210(617) 553-5900 | row34.com

Sarma

Somerville, Massachusetts

WHAT: A vibrant celebration of the bold, aromatic flavors of the Middle East, with a distinct New England twist. Chef-owner Cassie Piuma brings together her passion for regional spice blends and fresh, seasonal ingredients, including those from co-owner Ana Sortun’s farm. WHY: Having honed her craft for over a decade at Oleana, the acclaimed Turkish-inspired restaurant by Sortun in nearby Cambridge, Piuma now leads Sarma with her inventive mezze-style offerings, drawing inspiration from the traditional Turkish tavern feasts known as meyhanes. Expect creative dishes like squid topped with peanut dukkah, cucumber dolmas in place of grape leaves, and a twist on spanakopita with za’atar, olives, and pickled hot peppers. — B.A.

249 Pearl StreetSomerville, MA 02145(617) 764-4464 | sarmarestaurant.com

Sportello

Boston, Massachusetts

WHAT: A modern Italian-inspired trattoria from Barbara Lynch, hidden in plain sight as a bright, unpretentious lunch counter. WHY: While Lynch’s culinary empire offers many stellar spots, this low-key favorite, nestled between her renowned cocktail bar, Drink, and the fine dining excellence of Menton, currently buzzes with a fresh, energetic vibe. The menu features elevated takes on regional Italian classics, from duck prosciutto crostini topped with rhubarb compote, salsa verde, and creamy burratini, to marinated mackerel paired with fresh chickpeas and a hint of chile oil. House-made strozzapreti pasta is served with rosemary-braised rabbit, brightened with picholine olives. — J.H.

348 Congress StreetBoston, MA 02210(617) 737-1234 | sportelloboston.com

Waypoint

Cambridge, Massachusetts

WHAT: A seafood-driven feast in the heart of Harvard Square, helmed by the rising star, Michael Scelfo. WHY: Bold, inventive, and unrestrained cooking that embraces richness, salt, and vibrant flavors in full force. Fresh bucatini is elevated with smoked egg yolk, delicate bottarga, sharp pecorino, and indulgent dollops of uni. A perfectly marbled, wood-roasted char belly, with its irresistibly crispy skin, is served over creamy ceci beans and garnished with grilled grapes and a hint of lemon — a cassoulet reinvention. The cocktail list is equally inventive, featuring creamy milk punches, unexpected infusions like squid-ink mezcal, and a deep dive into absinthe for the true connoisseur. — J.H.

1030 Massachusetts StreetCambridge, MA 02138(617) 864-2300 | waypointharvard.com

Uni

Boston, Massachusetts

WHAT: Uni began as a modest sashimi bar within the windowless nook of Ken Oringer’s flagship, Clio, back in 2002. Fast forward to last year, Oringer gave his beloved side project the spotlight it deserved by expanding it into its own full-fledged space. WHY: And what a transformation it was. Oringer and executive chef Tony Messina elevated Uni into a dynamic izakaya, where global street food takes center stage, with refined techniques and an obsessive commitment to premium ingredients. The result is a flavor-packed adventure, where hamachi sashimi flirts with banana, black truffle, and crispy pork-belly croutons, sea-urchin toast is dressed Italian-style with lardo and seaweed pesto, and wagyu dumplings are reimagined with cheddar dashi and braised lettuce. — J.H.

370 Commonwealth AvenueBoston, MA 02215(617) 536-7200 | uni-boston.com

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Moxy

Portsmouth, New Hampshire

WHAT: An intellectually inspired small-plates destination, blending the rich history and natural abundance of Portsmouth with the whimsical touch of Per Se alum chef Matt Louis. WHY: Louis infuses bold creativity into every dish, serving up innovative offerings that would have seemed unlikely just five years ago in this quaint New England town. The restaurant staff cultivates its own farm, while oysters from nearby Great Bay are harvested exclusively for Moxy and its sister restaurant, Franklin Oyster House. Foragers bring in nettles to pair with the region’s invasive green crab, and every dish is a homage to the local history. Imagine colonial settlers savoring updated takes on historic meals, like hasty pudding fries with molasses barbecue and buttermilk dip, or a modern New England dinner featuring corned beef brisket, napa cabbage, and Raye’s maple mustard. — Rachel Forrest

106 Penhallow StreetPortsmouth, NH 03801(603) 319-8178 | moxyrestaurant.com

Polly’s Pancake Parlor

Sugar Hill, New Hampshire

WHAT: The charming carriage house of a White Mountain farm, originally transformed in 1938 by "Sugar Bill" and Polly Dexter into a cozy tea room to showcase the bounty of maple syrup gathered from Dexter’s sugarbush. WHY: Generations later, Sugar Bill's legacy lives on with simple yet delicious food paired with a variety of maple products to pour, drizzle, and spread. Naturally, pancakes and waffles are the stars, but no visit is complete without a scoop of ice cream smothered in Maple Hurricane Sauce, a decadent creation made by simmering apples in syrup to form a sweet, woodsy syrup. — M.S.

672 NH-117Sugar Hill, NH 03586(603) 823-5575 | pollyspancakeparlor.com

RHODE ISLAND

Al Forno

Providence, Rhode Island

WHAT: A cornerstone of upscale dining in Providence since 1980, Al Forno was founded by Johanne Killeen and her husband, George Germon, who began offering their refined take on Italian-American classics. WHY: Al Forno’s enduring popularity and relevance are a testament to its unwavering energy — this place doesn’t take reservations, so plan to arrive early or late. Start your meal with the iconic grilled pizza, a creation that first brought national acclaim to the duo. It arrives looking like a beautifully misshapen boomerang, with a crackling crust and toppings like kale pesto and pine nuts that are simply irresistible. Don’t let yourself get too full from the final bite of sausage-laden clam or baked pasta, as you’ll want room for one of Killeen’s divine fruit crostatas or the warm cookie platter. — B.A.

577 South Water StreetProvidence, RI 02903(401) 273-9760 | alforno.com

Oberlin

Providence, Rhode Island

WHAT: A cozy neighborhood favorite with a culinary gift: transforming the often-ordinary crudo and pasta into true masterpieces. WHY: After opening Birch, a small counter-only tasting menu spot in 2013, Benjamin Sukle and his wife, Heidi, followed up with the 2016 debut of Oberlin. This second venture draws inspiration from Providence’s Italian-American roots, offering a refined take on familiar flavors. Their crudos showcase pristine raw fish, such as Connecticut royal red shrimp, bluefish, and small silvery scup, simply dressed with olive oil and lemon, highlighting the natural beauty of each ingredient. This minimalist approach is the perfect prelude to their rich, hand-made pastas, including chiatarra cacio e pepe. — B.A.

186 Union StreetProvidence, RI 02903(401) 588-8755 | oberlinrestaurant.com

O Dinis

East Providence, Rhode Island

WHAT: A solid brick building with bold pinstripe-blue awnings, O Dinis serves as a culinary haven for the rich, comforting flavors of Portugal. With the largest Portuguese-American population in the country, Rhode Island is the perfect backdrop for this warm and inviting spot. WHY: Natalia Paiva-Neves and her father, Dinis Paiva, have created a welcoming, down-to-earth atmosphere that feels more like a neighborhood gathering place than a typical restaurant. Regulars and newcomers alike come for the hearty, traditional Portuguese dishes: bacalhau na brasa (grilled salt cod with boiled potatoes, garlic, and onions cooked in olive oil), bacalhau de natas (salt cod baked in rich cream), and carne de porco alentejana (marinated pork, fried potatoes, and littleneck clams). Pair it all with a chilled bottle of Vinho Verde for the ultimate experience. — B.A.

579 Warren AvenueEast Providence, RI 02914(401) 438-3769

North

Providence, RI

WHAT: A standout in Providence’s West End, North is one of the rare spots open past 10 p.m., attracting late-night industry folks with its diverse menu that ranges from Momofuku-inspired creations to comforting Southern classics, all featuring locally sourced Rhode Island ingredients. WHY: Expect long waits, as they don’t take reservations, and service can be a bit gruff. But these minor inconveniences are easily overlooked when the imaginative dishes hit the table in the nautical-themed dining room. The kitchen delivers everything from savory country ham biscuits to spicy dan dan noodles with mutton, squid, and fermented chiles. The bakery next door serves up a similarly delicious mix of flavors. — Molly Birnbaum

3 Luongo Memorial SquareProvidence, RI 02903(401) 421-1100 | foodbynorth.com

The Red Dory

Tiverton, RI

WHAT: A fresh chapter for chef Steve Johnson, who closed his Cambridge-based restaurant Rendezvous in 2014, The Red Dory offers rustic yet refined dishes in a charming one-story building overlooking the Sakonnet River, just 45 minutes south of Providence. WHY: With a wood-fired stove inside and picnic tables scattered across a waterfront porch, the ambiance feels more like a weekend escape than a high-end dining experience. Yet Johnson transforms local seafood into delightful creations, like tender Rhode Island squid sautéed with hearty borlotti beans and peppery arugula, or linguini tossed in a rich red sauce with clams harvested from nearby waters. Even the lemon pudding cake, a beloved recipe Johnson also served at Rendezvous, tastes like a slice of summer, no matter the season. — M.B.

1848 Main RoadTiverton, RI 02878(401) 816.5001 | reddoryrestaurant.com

VERMONT

ArtsRiot

Burlington, Vermont

WHAT: A vibrant fusion of bold, unapologetic bar food with French culinary techniques, served at a dynamic DIY venue in Burlington’s up-and-coming South End arts district. WHY: In late 2014, cofounders PJ McHenry and Felix Wai abandoned their half-baked 'kitchen collective' idea and partnered with the fiery chef George Lambertson, transforming the space into one of the South End’s culinary anchors. With recent contributions from chef de cuisine Jean-Luc Matecat, ArtsRiot has become the go-to spot for an eclectic crowd, from farmers to artists and drag queens. Here, you’ll savor black-garlic ramen loaded with chicken, pigs feet, and lemongrass, or tackle monster burgers—oozing with melted American cheese and a special sauce—that can be stacked up to four patties high. — Hannah Palmer Egan

400 Pine StreetBurlington, VT 05401(802) 540-0406 | artsriot.com/restaurant

Hen of the Wood

Waterbury, Vermont

WHAT: A celebration of Vermont’s rich, year-round harvest, expertly plated for every season. WHY: When winter’s grip begins to feel endless, there’s a refuge in Hen of the Wood, where Eric Warnstedt crafts dishes from cheese aged in secret caves, roasts root vegetables to an almost candy-like sweetness, and transforms pig’s ears into something sublime. Warnstedt’s love for Vermont ingredients runs deep, from the early days of mushroom toasts to today’s creative explorations. Return as the seasons change to savor summer’s bounty—sweet corn, succulent lamb, and fried green tomatoes complemented by kale and currants. — A.T.

92 Stowe StreetWaterbury, VT 05676(802) 244-7300 | henofthewood.com

Kismet

Montpelier, Vermont

WHAT: A cozy, dimly lit dining haven just steps away from Vermont’s capital, where farm-to-table partnerships were forged long before they became a trend. WHY: Crystal Madiera has been at the forefront of vegetable-driven cuisine, creating plant-focused — though not entirely vegetarian — dishes at her intimate State Street restaurant for over a decade. Kismet remains a go-to spot for the in-the-know locals, with favorites like paper-thin carpaccio made from beef or root vegetables, and roasted beets paired with smoky lentils, hazelnut powder, and a tangy dollop of labneh. In the winter, Kismet is the only place in town offering savory bread puddings drenched in rich bone broth. — H.P.E.

52 State StreetMontpelier, VT 05602(802) 223-8646 | kismetkitchens.com

Misery Loves Co.

Winooski, Vermont

WHAT: Bold and innovative dishes that have helped transform Winooski from a quiet corner of Burlington into a buzzing culinary hub. WHY: Chef-owners Aaron Josinsky and Nathaniel Wade are known for reimagining classic dishes with wild, unconventional ingredients. In the spring, indulge in a unique take on lasagna, where nettle leaves replace traditional pasta and are layered with morels and ricotta, all drenched in a delicate mushroom broth. By mid-summer, expect Vermont-sourced crawfish served simply on stoneware, accompanied by pots of brown-butter emulsion. The staff will advise you to remove the heads and sip the river’s essence within. — H.P.E.

46 Main StreetWinooski, VT 05404(802) 497-3989 | miserylovescovt.com

SoLo Farm & Table

South Londonderry, Vermont

WHAT: A local food experience that challenges Vermont’s traditional love for cheese and maple syrup. WHY: Six years ago, Chloe and Wesley Genovart traded city life for the serene Vermont countryside to create a unique dining destination. In the winter, they serve a warming sunchoke soup, perfect for chasing the chill. Summer brings the bounty of 20 different varieties of tomatoes from their own garden. Wesley, who grew up in Spain, infuses Mediterranean flavors into a menu featuring house-made charcuterie, octopus, quail, and rabbit. Don’t miss his torrija, a bread pudding rich with milk from a local dairy and infused with aromatic spices. This is Vermont with an international flair. — Darra Goldstein

95 Middletown RoadSouth Londonderry, Vermont 05155(802) 824-6327 | solofarmandtable.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

Molly Birnbaum is an executive editor at America's Test Kitchen and resides in Providence, Rhode Island.

Hannah Palmer Egan writes about food, drink, and agriculture in Vermont.

Sally Ekus is a literary agent and co-owner of The Lisa Ekus Group, a full-service culinary agency.

Rachel Forrest is a food writer and restaurant critic, based in Exeter, New Hampshire, and Austin, Texas.

Anestes Fotiades is the founder of Portland Food Map, a comprehensive guide to Portland, Maine's vibrant food and dining scene.

Darra Goldstein is the founding editor of Gastronomica, and the author of the cookbook Fire + Ice: Classic Nordic Cooking.

Jolyon Helterman is a restaurant critic for Boston magazine and former deputy editor of Cook’s Illustrated. His work has appeared in Coastal Living, Yankee Magazine, Hemispheres, New York magazine, The Boston Sunday Globe Magazine, Serious Eats, and Every Day with Rachael Ray.

Helen Rosner serves as Dinogo's editor-at-large.

Michael Stern is the co-founder of Roadfood.com and, alongside Jane Stern, has authored over 40 books on American food and culture. Their 17-year 'Roadfood' column in Gourmet magazine earned them three James Beard journalism awards.

Amy Traverso is the senior food editor at Yankee Magazine, the author of The Apple Lover's Cookbook, and co-host of the television series Weekends with Yankee, produced in collaboration with WGBH.

Korsha Wilson is a food writer and Culinary Institute of America graduate. Formerly a restaurant worker, she founded A Hungry Society, a platform that celebrates the diversity of food culture and advocates for a more inclusive food world.

The South's 38 Essential Restaurants | The Best Restaurants in America 2016 | The Best New Restaurants 2016 | The Best Restaurants in America 2015

Bill Addison is Dinogo's restaurant editor, traveling across the country to discover America's must-visit dining spots. Check out all his columns in the archive.

Edited by Lesley SuterCopy edited by Emma AlpernMap illustration by Courtney LeonardSpecial thanks to Matt Buchanan, Sonia Chopra, Amanda Kludt, Mary Hough, Adam Moussa, James Park, Helen Rosner, Jenny Zhang