38 Essential Restaurants in New England

A rugged coastline stretches out before me, with a narrow road winding its way toward a gravel parking lot. Fishing boats rock in the choppy waters, while distant islands are just blurry shapes against the horizon. The June breeze cuts through sharply. Here I am, in this quintessential New England scene, on the hunt for one thing — a truly outstanding lobster roll.

My friend and fellow writer Amy Traverso has recommended McLoons Lobster in South Thomaston, Maine, on the midcoast. A sign in front of the shack advertises strawberry rhubarb pie for the day, but it’s too early for Maine’s tiny, tart blueberries. No matter — I indulge in the 'Lobster Rolls Royce,' a double serving, with meat so sweet and fresh that I’ll never settle for lobster in a chain restaurant again until this memory fades into the foggy coastal air.

During my weeks of exploring New England, I enjoyed more lobster rolls, fried clams, and chowder than I could count. But beyond these classic dishes, I also savored Portuguese stews, Turkish dolmas, Cantonese-style dumplings, and inventive modern dishes like 'Mexican fried rice' — all part of the vibrant, diverse culinary scene that shapes the Northeast.

Our culinary tour spans six states: starting in New Haven, Connecticut — one of America’s pizza capitals — and stretching up to Burlington, Vermont, just 71 miles from the Canadian border. Covering this vast territory is no easy feat, so I enlisted 11 New England-based writers and experts to help narrow down the countless exceptional restaurants to the essential 38. Their local insights are what truly elevate this list.

If we had made this list five years ago, it would have looked quite different — and likely less diverse in terms of geography. While Boston claims a solid 10 spots (no surprise, given its metro population of nearly 5 million), the additions of trailblazing spots like Eventide in Portland, Maine, and Oberlin in Providence, Rhode Island, have broadened the scope. Today, New England’s food scene is marked by a blend of daring chefs and keepers of tradition, making it more dynamic and exciting than ever.

As I review our selections, I’m transported back to the small towns that form New England’s heart, to unforgettable meals set in places like a working farm, a water-powered mill, a transformed Carvel stand, and a forest clearing. No list can ever capture every hidden gem, and this guide is meant to inspire both indulgence and debate. I can tell you this — I thoroughly enjoyed my share of lobster rolls, whether drenched in mayo or slathered in butter. And I’m confident McLoons deserves its spot. — Bill Addison, Restaurant Editor

The 38 Best Restaurants in New England, displayed on a map! →

CONNECTICUT

Sally’s Apizza

New Haven, Connecticut

WHAT: The top contender among New Haven’s legendary pizzerias. WHY: While others may have their favorite, after two thorough tastings for Dinogo, I’m convinced that Sally’s reigns supreme. The tangy tomato sauce, the perfectly charred crust, and the delicate touch with toppings make this place a cut above. Try the tomato pie with garlic and no cheese (save for a light dusting of pecorino Romano) to experience pizza perfection. The ambiance is simple and dimly lit, with no frills — just solid, old-school Italian-American pizza served with no-nonsense service from staff in shorts, regardless of the season. It’s a national treasure. — B.A.

237 Wooster StreetNew Haven, CT 06511(203) 624-5271 | sallysapizza.com

Sea Swirl

Mystic, Connecticut

WHAT: A former Carvel stand turned seafood haven, located just east of Mystic Seaport, now serving some of the best fried clams in New England. WHY: These are whole-belly clams — plump, briny, and bursting with ocean sweetness, encased in a crisp, delicate shell. But it’s not just the clams; Sea Swirl offers a full menu of expertly fried seafood, including scallops, shrimp, and oysters. Among all the clam shacks along Connecticut’s coast, Sea Swirl stands out not just for its food, but for its setting — dining is outside at picnic tables, where you can savor the salty sea breeze while the ocean tides roll in behind you. — Michael Stern

30 Williams Avenue Mystic, CT 06355(860) 536-3452 | seaswirlofmystic.com

The Place

Guilford, Connecticut

WHAT: More of a rustic gathering spot than a traditional restaurant, The Place is an outdoor venue nestled two miles inland from the beach. Diners sit on tree stumps while the food is cooked over a massive open grill. WHY: There’s no menu to speak of, just a hand-painted wooden sign offering the day’s feast. The tradition is tried and true: First, a sizzling platter of roasted clams topped with cocktail sauce and butter; followed by lobster, barbecue chicken, and sometimes bluefish. Almost everyone pairs their meal with smoky, charred corn on the cob — it’s the only side, but you’re welcome to BYO anything else, including a six-pack from the nearby gas station. This no-frills gem has been delighting guests since 1971. — Helen Rosner

901 Boston Post RoadGuilford, CT 06437(203) 453-9276 | theplaceguilford.com

Ted’s Restaurant

Meriden, Connecticut

WHAT: The birthplace of the steamed cheeseburger, a central Connecticut classic, expertly crafted at this cozy roadside shack since 1959. WHY: Here, the ground beef patties and blocks of cheddar cheese are separately placed in metal trays inside a steam cabinet, where they are gently vapor-cooked. The result is a burger that’s impossibly juicy, with the cheese becoming a velvety, pearlescent mass that seeps into every crevice of the beef, delivering the ultimate umami experience. — M.S.

1046 Broad StreetMeriden, CT 06450203-237-6660 | tedsrestaurant.com

MAINE

Drifters Wife

Portland, Maine

WHAT: A modern American bistro and natural wine bar that, much like its hometown of Portland, consistently exceeds expectations. WHY: Driven by a contagious passion and an encyclopedic knowledge of both wine and the makers behind it, co-owners Peter and Orenda Hale have curated a 200-bottle natural wine list that complements chef Ben Jackson’s inventive menu. A bowl of duck consommé with hen of the woods mushrooms in spring is so good you’ll want to order a second. The house-made yogurt adds a tangy contrast to roasted chicken with carrots and lambs quarters, creating a beautifully balanced dish. Though the food and wine are ambitious, it’s the genuine hospitality that truly elevates this East End treasure. — Anestes Fotiades

63 Washington AvePortland, ME 04101(207) 805-1336 | drifterswife.com

Eventide Oyster Co.

Portland, Maine

WHAT: A vibrant seafood hotspot that redefines the oyster bar experience, not just in New England but across the entire country. Eventide has earned its place as a legend: Expect a wait, no matter the season or time of day. WHY: Choose from nearly 20 types of rugged, fresh oysters from Maine and beyond, displayed on a massive slab of granite. Their names evoke the region’s rich coastal landscape: Pleasant Bay, John’s River, Basket Island, Dodge Cove. Savor them raw, or enhance the flavor with classic toppings like red wine mignonette or inventive ones like horseradish or kimchi ice. The blackboard specials like fish crudo and octopus terrine never disappoint, but the true showstopper remains the signature lobster roll, elevated by a surprisingly perfect combination of browned butter, dried milk powder, and a squeeze of lemon. — B.A.

86 Middle StreetPortland, ME 04101(207) 774-8538 | eventideoysterco.com

Long Grain

Camden, Maine

WHAT: A must-visit neighborhood gem tucked among a cluster of businesses in the scenic town of Camden, helmed by the husband-and-wife duo, Ravin Nakjaroen and Paula Palakawong. The menu is rooted in Nakjaroen’s Thai heritage but evolves into a dynamic blend of pan-Asian flavors, showcasing a style that defies simple categorization. WHY: Dishes like fried rice are executed with exceptional care, each grain separated and enhanced with local seafood like Maine crab and smoked mackerel. But the true heart of the menu lies in Nakjaroen’s authentic Thai offerings, including the fiery wok-seared pad kee mao with local vegetables and a perfectly balanced, not-too-sweet panang curry with beef. — B.A.

31 Elm StreetCamden, ME 04843(207) 236-9001 | longgraincamden.com

The Lost Kitchen

Freedom, Maine

WHAT: A near-mythical dining experience set in a 19th-century millhouse powered by hydroelectric energy in the small town of Freedom, with a population of just 719. Here’s the catch: securing a reservation at The Lost Kitchen is one of the hardest dining feats in America. Chef-owner Erin French opens reservations on April 1st each year for the period from May through New Year’s Eve, and they disappear within hours. WHY: For those lucky enough to score a reservation, the evening becomes a multi-sensory journey. The sound of a nearby dam babbling, the aromas changing as the evening light fades, and French’s effortless way of layering flavors all contribute to the magic. Dishes like oysters infused with basil and violet might begin the meal, while lamb loin paired with pickled rhubarb and feta captures the essence of spring. The food is extraordinary, but the calm atmosphere and the sense of togetherness among guests elevate the experience to something truly unforgettable. — B.A.

22 Mill StreetFreedom, ME 04941(207) 382-3333

Maine Diner

Wells, Maine

WHAT: A charming roadside diner that serves as the epitome of classic Downeast fare, offering everything from rich, creamy chowder to nostalgic Indian pudding (served à la mode, naturally) and a hearty lobster omelet for breakfast. While seafood takes center stage, comfort dishes like baked beans, chicken pot pie, and mac and cheese hold their own as local staples. WHY: There’s no grMytour comfort food than Grandma’s lobster pie: a decadent dish of sweet lobster chunks bathed in butter, topped with crispy, buttery cracker crumbs. It’s undeniably one of New England’s finest plates. — M.S.

2265 Post Rd.Wells, ME 04090(207) 646-4441 | mainediner.com

McLoons Lobster

South Thomaston, Maine

WHAT: The definitive Maine lobster shack, boasting a picture-perfect setting and a lobster roll that’s second to none. WHY: Lobster rolls are the star of Maine’s culinary scene, often priced affordably and churned out in large quantities. The downside? Many shacks mix lobster meat with heaps of mayo, resulting in soggy, flavorless bites. Not so at McLoons. Here, the mayo is applied only to the bun, leaving the lobster to shine on its own. Want a little variety? Order the half-and-half roll and savor both the mayo and the hot butter versions. — A.T.

315 Island RoadSouth Thomaston, Maine 04858(207) 593-1382 | mcloonslobster.com

Palace Diner

Biddeford, Maine

WHAT: Step into this vintage, pre-Depression-era diner car, nestled in Biddeford, Maine, and prepare to be amazed by a fresh take on timeless diner fare. WHY: Chefs Chad Conley and Greg Mitchell have breathed new life into this 90-year-old institution, serving up comfort food classics (burgers, breakfast sandwiches, flapjacks) with a touch of finesse that makes the small wait for a seat worthwhile. Grilled grapefruit takes on a whole new character. A tuna melt is elevated with a crisp layer of iceberg lettuce, tangy pickles, and a hearty tuna salad. Thick slices of challah french toast are bruleed to perfection, adding a caramelized sweetness to each bite. — A.F.

18 Franklin StreetBiddeford, ME 04101(207) 284-0015 | palacedinerme.com

Primo

Rockland, Maine

WHAT: Chef Melissa Kelly’s love letter to midcoast Maine, blending the charm of a farm with the elegance of a restaurant. WHY: While many restaurants boast about their farm-to-table offerings, Primo takes it a step further, sitting on 4.5 acres of lush farmland. Chef Kelly is not only the culinary genius behind the menu but also the mastermind behind the farm that grows the ingredients she uses. Begin your evening with a glass of wine in hand as you wander through the garden before heading inside to the rustic two-story space, converted into a welcoming restaurant and parlor. The menu celebrates the bounty of the land, with dishes like blistered snap peas seasoned with sea salt, and tender pork chops served with sweet roasted Brussels sprouts. Upstairs, the casual lounge offers a selection of house-made charcuterie, pizzas, and oysters—truly the best taverna in midcoast Maine. — Korsha Wilson

2 Main StreetRockland, ME 04841(207) 596-0770 | primorestaurant.com

Tandem Coffee + Bakery

Portland, Maine

WHAT: A highly acclaimed roastery and bakery founded by Blue Bottle alumni Will and Kathleen Pratt, serving some of the finest pastries and coffees in town with a side of millennial charm. WHY: What started as a beloved coffee haven in Portland’s East End expanded to the West End in 2015, adding acclaimed baker Briana Holt to the team. Holt brings a modern twist to classic baked goods, expertly balancing sweet and savory flavors. Start your day with one of her buttery jam-filled biscuit sandwiches or a bowl of turmeric-spiced steel-cut oats. For a real treat, try a slice of her plum and black pepper pie. Come lunchtime, their capicola sandwich, featuring chile-infused honey, banana peppers, and fresh chickweed on seeded focaccia, will have you returning before noon. — A.F.

742 Congress StreetPortland, ME 04101(207) 805-1887 | tandemcoffee.com

Tao Yuan

Brunswick, Maine

WHAT: The crown jewel of Brunswick, this restaurant is the brainchild of chef and restaurateur Cara Stadler, whose dumpling-making skills have earned her near-mythical status. WHY: Stadler and her mother Cecile once ran a secret pop-up restaurant in Beijing when Stadler was just 21. Now back in Maine, where they spent their summers, the duo crafts a menu that’s distinctly pan-Asian but shines brightest with its Chinese-inspired dishes. The menu is a showcase for Stadler’s talent: seared scallops drenched in a rich XO sauce with Iberico ham, fresh greens tossed in a ginger-sesame vinaigrette, and dumplings like open-faced shu mai filled with a savory blend of pork and shrimp. — B.A.

22 Pleasant StreetBrunswick, ME 04011(207) 725-9002 | tao-yuan.me

MASSACHUSETTS

Craigie on Main

Cambridge, Massachusetts

WHAT: At its core, this is the quintessential American bistro. WHY: Chef-owner Tony Maws is a pioneer in the art of mixing the elevated with the humble. In a spacious, brick-walled dining room, he presents tasting menus that could take you from delicate Maine amberjack sashimi to refreshing green gazpacho, from rich garganelli with clams and pork belly to a bold lamb dish, all finishing with a decadent bitter chocolate terrine. But Maws' a la carte offerings are just as impressive. His roasted chicken is a masterwork, and the bar serves one of America’s most daring burgers: a freshly ground patty enriched with bone marrow and miso, topped with cheddar and nestled in a thick milk-bread bun. Only 18 of these burgers are served nightly, so show up by 5:30 if you want a chance to try one. — B.A.

853 Main StreetCambridge, MA 02139(617) 497-5511 | craigieonmain.com

Eastern Standard

Boston, Massachusetts

WHAT: The legendary Garrett Harker brings Boston the brasserie it always deserved. WHY: This bustling institution in Kenmore Square caters to all with its outstanding craft cocktails, bistro staples like steak frites and roast chicken, and unparalleled service (some say they have a dossier on every guest). While the tables are dressed in white linens, the atmosphere is anything but stiff; the restaurant runs all day and well into the night, where bartenders climb atop the bar to write up late-night specials on the mirror. — K.W.

528 Commonwealth Avenue Boston, MA 02215(617) 532-9100 | easternstandardboston.com

Gypsy Apple Bistro

Shelburne Falls, Massachusetts

WHAT: A humble eight-seat French bistro tucked away in Western Massachusetts, serving as a peaceful escape for husband-and-wife chef-owners Michaelangelo Wescott and Ami Aubin. This cozy gem is one of the few remaining havens where consistency, creativity, and warm hospitality are perfectly balanced. WHY: The menu pays homage to tradition (think duck confit and house-cured gravlax), but Wescott’s mood sets the tone for the daily specials, which might include everything from handmade pasta to scrapple topped with a duck egg, or even house-made ramen. In winter, you'll find a hearty braised pork shank with a rich berry jus — the perfect reward after navigating icy roads. In summer, fresh trout and vibrant local cheeses join sun-warmed tomatoes in a perfect stack. Once you visit, you'll always be part of the family. — Sally Ekus

65 Bridge StreetShelburne Falls, MA 01370(413) 625-6345 | gypsyapplebistro.com

La Brasa

Somerville, Massachusetts

WHAT: A live-fire culinary adventure led by the talented Daniel Bojorquez, who opened this gem in 2014 in the heart of Somerville's most unexpected neighborhood. WHY: After a lengthy apprenticeship under renowned local chef Frank McClelland, the Sonora-born, Puebla-trained chef blends his diverse influences into a menu that’s both bold and sophisticated. Charred poblano and onion fondue perfectly complement the crispy-skinned wood-fired chicken. The “Mexican Fried Rice” fuses the flavors of arroz mexicano (bright, sofrito-driven) with smoky Chinese fried rice and crispy Spanish paella socarrat. And while some may debate whether bread should come free, the irresistible house-made neon-green olive oil and rich, smoky ash butter make a convincing case for splurging a little more. — Jolyon Helterman

124 BroadwaySomerville, MA 02145(617) 764-1412 | labrasasomerville.com

Loyal Nine

Cambridge, Massachusetts

WHAT: A modern, thought-provoking restaurant that takes inspiration from New England, minus the clichéd vintage touches. WHY: Chef Marc Sheehan’s commitment to local ingredients extends far beyond just sourcing. Positioned near Harvard, he delves into the rich history of New England cuisine, bringing back dishes like sallets and soused bluefish, but reimagined with contemporary flair. Gone are the heavy Puritan influences, replaced with vibrant, unexpected flavors such as chamomile vinegar, sunchoke-walnut jam, and pork-fat hollandaise, making this a true culinary evolution of New England cuisine. — Amy Traverso

660 Cambridge StreetCambridge, MA 02141(617) 945-2576 | loyalninecambridge.com

O Ya

Boston, Massachusetts

WHAT: A top-tier izakaya that has been a standout since 2007, opened by Tim and Nancy Cushman in a cleverly repurposed firehouse. WHY: While the menu may initially seem like a playful mix of ingredients, each dish is executed with meticulous precision, like edible works of art. Kombu-braised shallot “nigiri” comes with delicate soy pearls that mimic the elegance of Osetra caviar. A5 wagyu, encased in a salt crust, dissolves into rich, buttery beef perfection. Even seemingly outdated trends shine with fresh innovation—take raw hamachi sitting atop small rice mounds, topped with spicy banana-pepper mousse, drizzled in truffle oil, and briefly charred by a crème brûlée torch, revealing savory, marshmallow-like flavors you never knew existed. Prepare to spend. — J.H.

9 East StreetBoston, MA 02111(617) 654-9900 | o-ya.restaurant

The Prairie Whale

Great Barrington, Massachusetts

WHAT: A rustic yet sophisticated gem in the Berkshires, where country charm meets city flair. WHY: In the southern part of Great Barrington, the area thrives on a fusion of urban and rural influences, especially along the Taconic State Parkway. When Mark Firth of Marlow & Sons traded city life for farm living, Great Barrington welcomed a farm-to-table haven: reclaimed wood decor, outdoor cornhole games, and ingredients sourced directly from Firth’s own farm, where he raises pigs and sheep. The menu reflects this simple, yet refined ethos, with dishes like potato-leek soup crowned with a poached egg and hearty pork goulash with braised cabbage and spaetzle. No pretensions, no website, no reservations. — A.T.

178 Main StreetGreat Barrington, MA 01230(413) 528-5050 | facebook.com/PrairieWhale

Row 34

Boston, Massachusetts

WHAT: A New England seafood shack that stays true to classic dishes while adding thoughtful, modern twists, brought to you by the Island Creek team, renowned for their premium bivalves shipped daily from Duxbury, Massachusetts, to top restaurants nationwide. WHY: Who better than the source itself to offer fresh, exquisite raw-bar options, like the highly prized Row 34 oysters, with their rich, mineral-packed flavor reminiscent of French Belons? Both versions of the lobster roll — creamy Maine style with mayo and buttery Connecticut style — are elevated to perfection here. And whether it's fried or grilled, everything tastes like the best version of itself. Pair it with a selection from the curated list of high-end sours and Old-World white wines. — J.H.

383 Congress StreetBoston, MA 02210(617) 553-5900 | row34.com

Sarma

Somerville, Massachusetts

WHAT: A lively and vibrant restaurant that brings the bold, fragrant flavors of the Middle East to life. Chef-owner Cassie Piuma creates innovative dishes that blend traditional recipes with the fresh produce of New England, often sourced from co-owner Ana Sortun’s farm. WHY: Piuma spent over a decade at Oleana, the acclaimed Cambridge restaurant by Ana Sortun, which helped pioneer the popularity of Turkish and Middle Eastern flavors in the U.S. At Sarma, Piuma crafts her own inspired versions of mezze, drawing on the lively feasts of Turkish taverns. Expect inventive twists, like peanut dukkah on squid, cucumber dolmas instead of grape leaves, and spanakopita spiced with za’atar, olives, and tangy pickled peppers. — B.A.

249 Pearl StreetSomerville, MA 02145(617) 764-4464 | sarmarestaurant.com

Sportello

Boston, Massachusetts

WHAT: A contemporary Italian Mytoury by Barbara Lynch, cleverly disguised as a casual, brightly lit diner. WHY: While any of Lynch’s establishments are sure to impress, this hidden gem stands out. Nestled between her famed cocktail bar, Drink, and her fine-dining flagship, Menton, it pulses with a refreshing energy that's both high-end and approachable. The kitchen, helmed by classically trained cooks, delivers inventive takes on regional Italian classics: think duck prosciutto crostini with rhubarb compote, marinated mackerel with chickpeas and chile oil, and hand-made strozzapreti pasta with rosemary-braised rabbit and olives. — J.H.

348 Congress StreetBoston, MA 02210(617) 737-1234 | sportelloboston.com

Waypoint

Cambridge, Massachusetts

WHAT: A seafood-forward haven in Harvard Square from the brilliant Michael Scelfo. WHY: This is cooking without restraint, where bold flavors and luxurious ingredients reign supreme. Bucatini is elevated with smoked egg yolk, bottarga, pecorino, and rich uni. Wood-roasted char belly, with crispy skin and a meltingly tender interior, gets the cassoulet treatment, served atop creamy chickpeas, grilled grapes, and a zesty lemon finish. The cocktail program is equally daring, with inventive concoctions like squid-ink mezcal and milk punches, plus an absinthe aficionado’s dream menu. — J.H.

1030 Massachusetts StreetCambridge, MA 02138(617) 864-2300 | waypointharvard.com

Uni

Boston, Massachusetts

WHAT: Once a modest sashimi counter in the heart of Clio, Uni has evolved into a full-fledged izakaya under the visionary direction of Ken Oringer and executive chef Tony Messina. WHY: In 2002, it was a hidden gem, but now it’s a culinary force. By embracing global street food with precision and impeccable ingredient sourcing, Uni serves a wild, flavor-packed journey. Expect unique combinations like hamachi sashimi with banana, truffle, and crispy pork belly, sea-urchin toast with lardo and seaweed pesto, and wagyu dumplings elevated with cheddar dashi and braised lettuce. — J.H.

370 Commonwealth AvenueBoston, MA 02215(617) 536-7200 | uni-boston.com

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Moxy

Portsmouth, New Hampshire

WHAT: A vibrant small-plates restaurant steeped in the flavors of Portsmouth’s history, local bounty, and the inventive culinary mind of Per Se alum chef Matt Louis. WHY: Louis brings bold creativity to the table, transforming dishes that would have been considered unconventional just a few years ago in this charming coastal town. With a farm tended by the staff, oysters sourced from nearby Great Bay, and foraged ingredients like nettles and invasive green crab, the dishes highlight both the land’s rich history and its present. Expect to see colonial-era dishes reimagined, such as hasty pudding fries with molasses barbecue and buttermilk dip, or an updated New England dinner with corned beef brisket, napa cabbage, and Raye’s maple mustard. — Rachel Forrest

106 Penhallow StreetPortsmouth, NH 03801(603) 319-8178 | moxyrestaurant.com

Polly’s Pancake Parlor

Sugar Hill, New Hampshire

WHAT: A charming carriage house in the White Mountains, originally transformed into a tea room by "Sugar Bill" and Polly Dexter in 1938, where they showcased the bounty of maple syrup tapped from their own sugarbush. WHY: Generations later, the Dexter family continues the tradition, serving hearty meals paired with a variety of maple-infused treats. The main event is the pancakes and waffles, of course, but no visit is complete without indulging in a scoop of ice cream crowned with Maple Hurricane Sauce — a sweet concoction made by simmering apples in syrup until it becomes a rich, woodsy drizzle. — M.S.

672 NH-117Sugar Hill, NH 03586(603) 823-5575 | pollyspancakeparlor.com

RHODE ISLAND

Al Forno

Providence, Rhode Island

WHAT: A cornerstone of fine dining in Providence since 1980, when Johanne Killeen and George Germon revolutionized Italian-American cuisine with their luxurious interpretations. WHY: Al Forno remains a vibrant institution, its continued relevance and popularity proof that excellence doesn’t fade. A spot that doesn’t take reservations, so plan to arrive early or late. Begin your meal with a grilled pizza — the creation that initially earned the duo national recognition. With its crackling crust and toppings like kale pesto and pine nuts, it still dazzles like the original. And don’t even think about skipping dessert, especially Killeen’s unforgettable fruit crostatas or the platter of freshly baked cookies. — B.A.

577 South Water StreetProvidence, RI 02903(401) 273-9760 | alforno.com

Oberlin

Providence, Rhode Island

WHAT: A charming neighborhood gem with a kitchen that wields an extraordinary talent: transforming crudo and pasta, two classic American restaurant staples, into moments of culinary revelation. WHY: Following the success of their intimate counter-only tasting-menu spot Birch, Benjamin Sukle and his wife Heidi launched Oberlin in 2016, tapping into the rich Italian-American tradition of Providence. The crudos are minimalistic masterpieces — pristine raw fish (think Connecticut royal red shrimp, bluefish, and delicate scup), simply dressed in olive oil and lemon, allowing the purity of the ingredients to shine. This perfect balance sets the stage for their indulgent house-made pastas, such as the signature chiatarra cacio e pepe. — B.A.

186 Union StreetProvidence, RI 02903(401) 588-8755 | oberlinrestaurant.com

O Dinis

East Providence, Rhode Island

WHAT: A cozy, unpretentious brick building with distinctive pinstripe-blue awnings, serving as a welcoming beacon for Portugal's hearty and comforting cuisine. Located in the state with the largest Portuguese-American population in the U.S., this spot is a neighborhood institution. WHY: Run by Natalia Paiva-Neves and her father, Dinis Paiva, the restaurant exudes a warm, come-as-you-are vibe, attracting a diverse mix of locals and expats. Guests return again and again for Portuguese classics, such as bacalhau na brasa (grilled salt cod with potatoes, garlic, and onions sautéed in olive oil), bacalhau de natas (salt cod baked in a rich cream sauce), and carne de porco alentejana (marinated pork with fried potatoes and littleneck clams). A refreshing bottle of Vinho Verde enhances the experience, making the meal even more satisfying. — B.A.

579 Warren AvenueEast Providence, RI 02914(401) 438-3769

North

Providence, RI

WHAT: A late-night favorite in Providence’s West End, where industry professionals and night owls gather for a diverse menu of dishes that blend flavors from Momofuku-inspired creations to classic Southern comfort food, all with a distinct Rhode Island twist. WHY: The restaurant doesn’t take reservations, and waits can be long, with service occasionally on the grumpy side. However, the unique and inventive dishes more than make up for any minor inconveniences. The intimate dining room, decorated with nautical touches, serves up delights like tiny country ham biscuits and spicy dan dan noodles with mutton, squid, and fermented chiles. The adjacent bakery offers a similarly delightful array of creative fare. — Molly Birnbaum

3 Luongo Memorial SquareProvidence, RI 02903(401) 421-1100 | foodbynorth.com

The Red Dory

Tiverton, RI

WHAT: Chef Steve Johnson's second culinary venture (after closing Rendezvous in Cambridge, MA, in 2014), offering simple yet sophisticated dishes in a charming one-story building with a scenic view of the Sakonnet River, located 45 minutes south of Providence. WHY: Despite its rustic vibe, complete with a wood-fired stove and a cozy waterfront porch, The Red Dory delivers extraordinary dishes using fresh, local seafood. Highlights include perfectly sautéed Rhode Island squid with borlotti beans and arugula, and linguini with clams, all in a rich red sauce. For dessert, the lemon pudding cake, a crowd favorite from Rendezvous, delivers the essence of summer. — M.B.

1848 Main RoadTiverton, RI 02878(401) 816.5001 | reddoryrestaurant.com

VERMONT

ArtsRiot

Burlington, Vermont

WHAT: A high-energy bar serving bold, meat-loving comfort food with a French twist, located in a gritty performance venue in Burlington's creative South End. WHY: Since cofounders PJ McHenry and Felix Wai revamped their concept in 2014, enlisting fiery chef-partner George Lambertson, ArtsRiot has become a cornerstone of the area’s flourishing culinary scene. The food, a mix of indulgent bar fare with finesse, has earned a loyal following among farmers, artists, and drag performers alike. Feast on black garlic ramen packed with chicken, pigs feet, and lemongrass or tackle a towering burger loaded with melty American cheese and special sauce, with the option of adding up to four patties. — Hannah Palmer Egan

400 Pine StreetBurlington, VT 05401(802) 540-0406 | artsriot.com/restaurantt

Hen of the Wood

Waterbury, Vermont

WHAT: Vermont’s finest seasonal bounty on a plate, expertly crafted. WHY: As winter drags on and the cold feels unbearable, a visit to Hen of the Wood is like a breath of fresh air. Chef Eric Warnstedt brings to life Vermont's rich larder—aging cheeses from hidden caves, roasting root vegetables to an almost sugary perfection, and turning humble pig’s ears into something sublime. This is a place where even the humble mushroom toast gets elevated to a dish of distinction. When summer arrives, expect fresh, vibrant flavors like sweet corn, tender lamb, and fried green tomatoes tossed with kale and currants. — A.T.

92 Stowe StreetWaterbury, VT 05676(802) 244-7300 | henofthewood.com

Kismet

Montpelier, Vermont

WHAT: A cozy, dimly lit dining destination just steps from Vermont’s state capital, where a chef with strong farm relationships has been ahead of the curve with plant-based cooking. WHY: For over a decade, Crystal Madiera has been leading the charge in Vermont’s vegetable-forward dining scene, creating stunning meals that aren’t necessarily vegetarian but are deeply inspired by fresh produce. Kismet has earned a loyal following for dishes like paper-thin carpaccio made from either beef or root vegetables, and roasted beets paired with smoky lentils, hazelnut dust, and a dollop of creamy labneh. In winter, it’s the go-to place in Montpelier for savory bread puddings soaked in rich bone broth. — H.P.E.

52 State StreetMontpelier, VT 05602(802) 223-8646 | kismetkitchens.com

Misery Loves Co.

Winooski, Vermont

WHAT: Bold, inventive dishes that have elevated Winooski from a quiet suburb into a lively culinary and cultural hub. WHY: Chef-owners Aaron Josinsky and Nathaniel Wade have a knack for transforming wild ingredients into surprising takes on familiar dishes. In the spring, look for a creative lasagna featuring delicate nettle leaves pressed into pasta ribbons, layered with fresh morels and ricotta, all drenched in a light mushroom broth. By midsummer, their crawfish — caught locally in Vermont — takes center stage, served simply on stoneware plates. The dish comes with a brown butter dip, and servers recommend cracking open the crawfish heads and sipping the river's rich, musky juices inside. — H.P.E.

46 Main StreetWinooski, VT 05404(802) 497-3989 | miserylovescovt.com

SoLo Farm & Table

South Londonderry, Vermont

WHAT: A fresh, local take on Vermont’s culinary traditions, challenging the state’s stereotypes of maple syrup and farmhouse cheeses. WHY: After relocating from New York City, Chloe and Wesley Genovart opened their restaurant in this quaint Vermont town six years ago, and haven’t looked back. Their seasonal menu starts with winter-warming sunchoke soup, while the summer months bring a dazzling assortment of 20 different heirloom tomatoes straight from SoLo’s garden. Wesley’s Spanish roots shine through with Mediterranean-inspired dishes, including house-cured charcuterie, octopus, quail, and rabbit. For dessert, don’t miss the torrija — a bread pudding made with rich milk from a local dairy and infused with warm spices. This is Vermont, but with a bold twist. — Darra Goldstein

95 Middletown RoadSouth Londonderry, Vermont 05155(802) 824-6327 | solofarmandtable.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

Molly Birnbaum is an executive editor at America's Test Kitchen and calls Providence, Rhode Island, home.

Hannah Palmer Egan is a Vermont-based writer covering food, drink, and agriculture.

Sally Ekus is a literary agent and co-owner of The Lisa Ekus Group, a full-service culinary agency.

Rachel Forrest is a food writer and restaurant critic based in both Exeter, New Hampshire, and Austin, Texas.

Anestes Fotiades is the founder of Portland Food Map, a comprehensive guide to Portland, Maine’s food and dining scene.

Darra Goldstein is the founding editor of Gastronomica and the author of Fire + Ice: Classic Nordic Cooking, her latest cookbook.

Jolyon Helterman is the restaurant critic for Boston magazine and the former deputy editor of Cook’s Illustrated. His writing has appeared in Coastal Living, Yankee Magazine, Hemispheres, New York magazine, The Boston Sunday Globe Magazine, Serious Eats, and Every Day with Rachael Ray.

Helen Rosner is the editor at large for Dinogo.

Michael Stern is the co-creator of Roadfood.com and, along with Jane Stern, has authored over 40 books on American food and popular culture. Their 17-year-long 'Roadfood' column in Gourmet magazine earned them three James Beard journalism awards.

Amy Traverso serves as the senior food editor at Yankee Magazine, is the author of The Apple Lover's Cookbook, and co-hosts Weekends with Yankee, a TV series produced in collaboration with WGBH.

Korsha Wilson is a food writer, Culinary Institute of America graduate, and former restaurant worker. She is the founder of A Hungry Society, a blog and platform that celebrates food culture diversity and promotes a more inclusive food world.

The South's 38 Essential Restaurants | The Best Restaurants in America 2016 | The Best New Restaurants 2016 | The Best Restaurants in America 2015

Bill Addison serves as Dinogo's restaurant editor, traveling across the country to uncover the best dining spots. Check out his full collection of columns in the archive.

Edited by Lesley Suter Copy edited by Emma AlpernMap illustration by Courtney LeonardSpecial thanks to Matt Buchanan, Sonia Chopra, Amanda Kludt, Mary Hough, Adam Moussa, James Park, Helen Rosner, Jenny Zhang