A rugged coastline, a winding road, and a gravel lot await. Fishing boats bob in the turbulent sea, while dense forests on distant islands create a chaotic skyline. The June breeze bites sharply. Here I am, in this picturesque New England scene, on the hunt for — what else? — a remarkable lobster roll.
My friend and fellow writer Amy Traverso recommended McLoons Lobster in South Thomaston, located along Maine’s picturesque midcoast. The sign outside the red shack announces the pie of the day as strawberry rhubarb; it’s still too early for the state’s vibrant blueberries. No worries. I indulge in the “lobster Rolls Royce,” a generous portion. Its bun cradles meat that is sweet, firm, and incredibly fresh, leaving me unwilling to order lobster at any upscale restaurant until this delightful memory fades into mist.
During my recent weeks exploring New England, I enjoyed countless lobster rolls, fried clams, and chowder. While these staples are quintessential, my meals were further enriched by an array of dishes — Portuguese stews, Turkish dolmas, Cantonese-style pork and shrimp dumplings, and innovative options like “Mexican fried rice” — that reflect the Northeast’s vibrant and varied culinary scene.
Our exploration covers six states: starting in one of America’s pizza hotspots, New Haven, Connecticut, and extending to Burlington, Vermont, just 71 miles from the Canadian border. No single person can adequately survey this vast region, so I enlisted 11 New England-based writers and experts to help narrow down countless remarkable restaurants to the essential 38. Their firsthand insights truly elevate this list to exceptional heights.

Five years ago, this list would have appeared quite different — or at least less diverse. (Currently, Boston occupies an impressive 10 spots, which makes sense for a metro area of nearly 5 million.) Thanks to pioneers like Eventide in Portland, Maine, and Oberlin in Providence, Rhode Island, our selections now reflect a wave of creativity. With a mix of adventurous chefs and stewards of traditional cuisine, New England is more diverse and thrilling than ever as a culinary destination.
Looking through our curated lineup brings back memories of the charming towns that embody the essence of New England, along with the exceptional meals enjoyed in settings like a working farm, a hydro-powered mill, a transformed Carvel stand, and a serene clearing in the woods. No list can encompass every hidden treasure: like any Dinogo map, this collection of restaurants invites you to indulge and discuss. However, I can confidently say I've enjoyed my fair share of lobster rolls, both slathered in mayo and smothered in hot butter. I wholeheartedly support our choice of McLoons. — Bill Addison, restaurant editor
The top 38 Mytouries in New England, mapped out! →
CONNECTICUT
Sally’s Apizza
New Haven, Connecticut
Bill Addison/DinogoWHAT: The ultimate choice among New Haven’s iconic pizzerias, without a doubt. WHY: You may contest my assertion; some colleagues on this project probably do, too. However, I’ve sampled the town’s outstanding pizzas twice for Dinogo, and both times I arrived at the same verdict: The zesty tomato sauce, the powdery char of the crust, and the judicious use of top-quality toppings make Sally’s unparalleled. Try the tomato pie with garlic and no cheese (aside from a sprinkle of pecorino Romano) to experience pizza perfection. The atmosphere is dim and minimalist, open only for dinner, with brisk yet curt service from staff in mailman-style shorts year-round. A true emblem of the Italian-American pizzeria, it’s a national treasure. — B.A.
237 Wooster StreetNew Haven, CT 06511(203) 624-5271 | sallysapizza.com
Bill AddisonSea Swirl
Mystic, Connecticut
WHAT: A former Carvel stand located east of Mystic Seaport, now renowned for serving some of the finest fried clams in New England. WHY: We’re talking whole-belly clams — juicy and ocean-fresh with a salty crunch encasing the luxuriously tender meat within a crispy coating. Beyond clams, this summer drive-in offers a full array of expertly fried seafood, including scallops, shrimp, and oysters. Among Connecticut’s shoreline clam shacks, Sea Swirl boasts the most inviting atmosphere. Enjoy dining outdoors at picnic tables, with the scent of the ocean’s tide rolling in behind the restaurant. — Michael Stern
30 Williams Avenue Mystic, CT 06355(860) 536-3452 | seaswirlofmystic.com
The Place
Guilford, Connecticut
Helen RosnerWHAT: An open-air Mytoury that feels like a forest clearing, located two miles from the beach: diners sit on tree stumps instead of traditional chairs, and all meals are prepared over a large open-fire grill. WHY: There’s a single menu at The Place, presented on a hand-painted wooden sign towering over the sun-kissed families (and the occasional well-mannered dog) who have flocked to this seasonal gem since 1971. Observing the tables, you'll notice a familiar trend: First, a plate of roasted clams served with cocktail sauce and butter; then, a lobster or two, some barbecue chicken, and perhaps some bluefish. Most patrons also order a heap of smoke-infused corn still in its charred husk; it’s the only side dish available, but you’re welcome to bring your own extras (including a six-pack, easily picked up at a nearby gas station on the way). — Helen Rosner
901 Boston Post RoadGuilford, CT 06437(203) 453-9276 | theplaceguilford.com
Bill AddisonTed’s Restaurant
Meriden, Connecticut
WHAT: The original spot for central Connecticut’s famed steamer, or steamed cheeseburger, crafted with flair by this cozy little shack since 1959. WHY: Ground beef patties and blocks of cheddar cheese are placed in separate metal trays within a steam cabinet, where they are cooked with vapor. The result is a burger that’s incredibly juicy, with cheese that becomes a glossy, viscous layer seeping into every nook of the meat below. It’s pure umami in every bite. — M.S.
1046 Broad StreetMeriden, CT 06450203-237-6660 | tedsrestaurant.com
MAINE
Drifters Wife
Portland, Maine
Bill AddisonWHAT: A natural wine bar and contemporary American bistro that consistently exceeds expectations, much like the vibrant city it’s situated in. WHY: With an infectious passion and extensive knowledge of wines and their producers, co-owners Peter and Orenda Hale have curated an impressive selection of 200 natural wines, complemented by chef Ben Jackson’s exquisite menu. A spring bowl of duck consommé with hen of the woods mushrooms is so delightful, you’ll want a second helping, while the house-made yogurt beautifully balances the intense umami of roasted chicken with carrots and lamb's quarters. The culinary and beverage offerings are ambitious, but it’s the heartfelt hospitality that truly makes this East End treasure shine. — Anestes Fotiades
63 Washington AvePortland, ME 04101(207) 805-1336 | drifterswife.com
Bill AddisonEventide Oyster Co.
Portland, Maine
WHAT: The vibrant seafood sensation that redefines the modern oyster bar experience—not just in New England but across the entire country. Eventide isn’t a hidden gem: at any time of year or day, expect at least a brief wait. WHY: Featuring nearly 20 varieties of rugged, pristine oysters sourced from Maine and beyond, presented on ice atop a carved granite slab. Their names evoke their origins, mapping the landscape in your mind: Pleasant Bay, John’s River, Basket Island, Dodge Cove. Savor them raw, or enhance the experience with classic (red wine mignonette) and inventive (horseradish or kimchi ice) toppings. Don’t miss the daily specials like fish crudos and octopus terrine, but the star of the show remains the iconic lobster roll, elevated by an unexpected trio of flavors: browned butter, dried milk powder, and lemon. — B.A.
86 Middle StreetPortland, ME 04101(207) 774-8538 | eventideoysterco.com
Long Grain
Camden, Maine
Bill AddisonWHAT: A must-visit neighborhood Mytoury nestled among a charming array of shops in a picturesque town, operated by the husband-and-wife duo of Ravin Nakjaroen and Paula Palakawong. The menu is inspired by the couple's Thai heritage, evolving into a unique style that could be described as “pan-Asian”—though Nakjaroen’s meticulous and personal approach defies simple categorization. WHY: A beloved comfort dish like fried rice exemplifies exceptional care, with each grain separate and infused with local seafood such as Maine crab or smoked mackerel. Don’t miss Nakjaroen’s authentic Thai creations, including pad kee mao (wok-seared rice noodles paired with fresh local vegetables) and a finely balanced, not overly sweet panang curry with beef. — B.A.
31 Elm StreetCamden, ME 04843(207) 236-9001 | longgraincamden.com
Bill AddisonThe Lost Kitchen
Freedom, Maine
WHAT: A charming destination restaurant set within a hydro-powered millhouse from 1834, located in a quaint midcoast town with a population of just 719. Here’s the twist: securing a dinner reservation at the Lost Kitchen is one of the toughest challenges in the country. Chef-owner Erin French opens reservations each year on April 1 for dates from May to New Year’s Eve, and they are gone in mere hours. WHY: Those lucky enough to secure a spot will experience an evening that engages all the senses. Enjoy the soothing sounds of a small dam outside, breathe in the evolving aromas as French and her team prepare eight courses in the fading light, and relish her effortless ability to create depth of flavor. Start with oysters infused with basil and violet, followed by lamb loin paired with pickled rhubarb and feta, capturing the essence of spring. The cuisine is extraordinary, but the tranquil ambiance and shared joy enhance the experience. — B.A.
22 Mill StreetFreedom, ME 04941(207) 382-3333
Maine Diner
Wells, Maine
Maine DinerWHAT: A beloved roadside diner known for its quintessential Downeast fare, featuring rich chowder, traditional Indian pudding for dessert (served a la mode, of course), and a delectable lobster omelet for breakfast. While seafood takes center stage, you’ll also find baked beans, chicken pot pie, and mac-and-cheese as beloved Yankee staples. WHY: No comfort food can compare to Grandma’s lobster pie, a decadent casserole filled with generous chunks of lobster swimming in butter, topped with crispy, buttery cracker crumbs. It’s easily one of the finest dishes in New England. — M.S.
2265 Post Rd.Wells, ME 04090(207) 646-4441 | mainediner.com
McLoons Lobster
South Thomaston, Maine
Bill AddisonWHAT: The iconic Maine lobster shack featuring a picturesque backdrop and an unbeatable lobster roll. WHY: Lobster rolls are the centerpiece of Maine’s culinary scene, typically costing in the teens and churned out in large quantities, often leading to shacks pre-mixing generous amounts of mayo with the meat, resulting in bland and mushy offerings. But at McLoons, mayo adorns the bun, leaving the meat untouched, and hot butter is readily available as an alternative. For the best experience, try a half-and-half roll to find your favorite. — A.T.
315 Island RoadSouth Thomaston, Maine 04858(207) 593-1382 | mcloonslobster.com
Bill AddisonPalace Diner
Biddeford, Maine
WHAT: A vintage diner car from the pre-Depression Era nestled in the historic mill town of Biddeford, Maine, that will redefine your expectations of classic diner cuisine. WHY: Chefs Chad Conley and Greg Mitchell have breathed new life into this 90-year-old gem with a menu featuring diner staples (burgers, breakfast sandwiches, and flapjacks) executed with an exceptional flair that makes the wait for one of the limited 15 seats worthwhile. Grilled grapefruit transforms into a delightful treat, while a generous layer of iceberg lettuce adds a refreshing crunch to the tuna melt piled high with tuna salad and pickles. Thick-cut challah French toast comes bruleed on top for a touch of built-in sweetness. — A.F.
18 Franklin StreetBiddeford, ME 04101(207) 284-0015 | palacedinerme.com
Primo
Rockland, Maine
PrimoWHAT: An homage to midcoast Maine by Chef Melissa Kelly, blending restaurant and expansive organic farm. WHY: While many restaurants emphasize local sourcing, Primo stands out with its four-and-a-half acres of lush farmland. Melissa Kelly oversees both the farm and the culinary creations. Guests might begin their evening with a garden stroll and a glass of wine before transitioning into the charming two-story converted house that serves as the dining venue. The menu highlights simply prepared vegetables and pasture-raised meats, reflecting Kelly’s experience at Chez Panisse: blistered snap peas seasoned with sea salt and thick-cut pork chops paired with sweet roasted Brussels sprouts. The relaxed top-floor lounge offers house-made charcuterie, pizzas, and oysters, making it the ultimate taverna in midcoast Maine. — Korsha Wilson
2 Main StreetRockland, ME 04841(207) 596-0770 | primorestaurant.com
Bill AddisonTandem Coffee + Bakery
Portland, Maine
WHAT: An acclaimed roastery and bakery founded by former Blue Bottle team members Will and Kathleen Pratt, featuring some of the finest pastries in the city infused with millennial coffee culture. WHY: The much-loved East End coffee house, known for its clean, lightly roasted coffees in a cozy setting, expanded to Portland’s West End in 2015, welcoming talented baker Briana Holt. She creates modern twists on classic baked goods, perfectly balancing sweet and savory. Start your day with one of her butter-and-jam biscuit sandwiches or a bowl of turmeric steel-cut oats—blissful options indeed. (Don’t miss a slice of the plum and black pepper pie.) For lunch, the capicola sandwich with chile-infused honey, banana peppers, and chickweed on seeded focaccia will surely have you returning by noon. — A.F.
742 Congress StreetPortland, ME 04101(207) 805-1887 | tandemcoffee.com
Tao Yuan
Brunswick, Maine
Tao Yuan/FacebookWHAT: The flagship Mytoury in this college town from chef and restaurateur Cara Stadler, renowned for her extraordinary dumpling-making skills. WHY: Nearly a decade ago, Stadler and her mother, Cecile, operated an underground restaurant in Beijing when she was just 21. They later reunited in Maine, where the family spent their summers. While the menu leans pan-Asian, be sure to focus on the dishes that showcase Chinese influences to fully appreciate Stadler’s culinary talent. Highlights include seared scallops in a rich XO sauce accented with Iberico ham, vibrant greens dressed with young ginger and sesame vinaigrette, and her remarkable dumplings, such as open-faced shu mai stuffed with pork and shrimp. — B.A.
22 Pleasant StreetBrunswick, ME 04011(207) 725-9002 | tao-yuan.me
MASSACHUSETTS
Craigie on Main
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Bill Addison/DinogoWHAT: The quintessential American bistro at its finest. WHY: Chef-owner Tony Maws was a pioneer of the high-low dining concept: In a spacious, brick-accented venue, he crafts tasting menus featuring dishes like Maine amberjack sashimi, refreshing green gazpacho, clams and pork belly garganelli, a lamb exploration, and a decadent bitter chocolate terrine. Meanwhile, his a la carte offerings shine just as brightly. The roasted chicken is superb, and the bar boasts one of the country’s boldest burgers, a freshly ground patty enhanced with bone marrow and miso, topped with cheddar on a towering milk-bread bun. Only 18 are served each night; aim to arrive by 5:30 p.m. if you want to snag one. — B.A.
853 Main StreetCambridge, MA 02139(617) 497-5511 | craigieonmain.com
Eastern Standard
Boston, Massachusetts
Meg Jones WallWHAT: Esteemed Boston restaurateur Garrett Harker brings a much-needed brasserie to New England. WHY: This vibrant institution in Kenmore Square caters to everyone, offering top-notch craft cocktails, classic bistro staples like steak frites and roasted chicken, along with outstanding service (rumor has it they keep detailed notes on every guest). The tables are elegantly dressed with white linen, yet the ambiance remains unpretentious; the restaurant operates all day and into the late hours, where bartenders creatively announce nightly specials on the mirror behind the bar. — K.W.
528 Commonwealth AvenueBoston, MA 02215(617) 532-9100 | easternstandardboston.com
Gypsy Apple Bistro
Shelburne Falls, Massachusetts
Dominic PerriWHAT: A quaint eight-seat French bistro nestled in Western Massachusetts, serving as a peaceful retreat for chef-owners Michaelangelo Wescott and Ami Aubin. This intimate spot exemplifies a rare blend of consistency, creativity, and genuine hospitality. WHY: The menu offers a nostalgic touch with dishes like duck confit and house-cured gravlax, while Wescott's whimsical daily specials can include anything from hand-torn pasta to scrapple topped with duck egg to homemade ramen. In winter, enjoy a hearty braised local pork shank with rich berry sauce, a perfect reward for navigating icy roads. Summer brings fresh trout paired with vibrant local cheeses and sun-warmed tomatoes. Visit once, and you'll become a lifelong patron. — Sally Ekus
65 Bridge StreetShelburne Falls, MA 01370(413) 625-6345 | gypsyapplebistro.com
La Brasa
Somerville, Massachusetts
La Brasa/FacebookWHAT: A live-fire culinary spectacle from the talented Daniel Bojorquez, who launched this gem in 2014 in the heart of Somerville's hidden corners. WHY: After an extensive apprenticeship under esteemed local chef Frank McClelland, this Sonora-born, Puebla-trained chef infuses his diverse experiences into a menu that seamlessly blends high and low cuisine with bold, vibrant, and sophisticated dishes. The charred-poblano onion fondue serves as a soft counterpart to the crispy-skinned wood-fire-roasted chicken. “Mexican Fried Rice” captures the essence of arroz mexicano (bright, sofrito-infused flavor), smoky notes of Chinese fried rice (rich wok hei), and the crispy texture of Spanish paella (crunchy soca rat). Additionally, whether you believe in charging for bread or not, the complimentary offerings for just a few bucks — decadent, viscous neon-green olive oil and dreamy, smoky ash butter — make a compelling argument. — Jolyon Helterman
124 BroadwaySomerville, MA 02145(617) 764-1412 | labrasasomerville.com
Bill AddisonLoyal Nine
Cambridge, Massachusetts
WHAT: A sophisticated, thoughtful restaurant inspired by New England, free from outdated clichés. WHY: Chef Marc Sheehan’s commitment to “eat local” transcends simple sourcing. Situated near Harvard, he delves into culinary history, resurrecting Colonial dishes such as sallets and soused bluefish with a contemporary twist. By shedding heavy Puritan influences and incorporating unexpected elements like chamomile vinegar, sunchoke-walnut jam, and pork-fat hollandaise, he crafts a vibrant and authentic New England cuisine for modern palates. — Amy Traverso
660 Cambridge StreetCambridge, MA 02141(617) 945-2576 | loyalninecambridge.com
O Ya
Boston, Massachusetts
Hien NguyenWHAT: A nationally acclaimed izakaya established in 2007 by Tim and Nancy Cushman within a charmingly refurbished firehouse. WHY: While the menu may appear whimsically random, each dish is crafted with precision and artistry reminiscent of edible masterpieces. Kombu-braised whole-shallot “nigiri” glistens with molecular soy pearls that mimic Osetra caviar. Salt-crusted A5 wagyu dissolves into rich beef butter on the tongue. Even mid-2000s clichés find unexpected relevance here, like raw hamachi atop delicate rice balls, enhanced with spicy banana-pepper mousse and drizzled with truffle oil, just before a torch brings out enchanting savory-marshmallow flavors you didn’t know existed. Come prepared to spend. — J.H.
9 East StreetBoston, MA 02111(617) 654-9900 | o-ya.restaurant
The Prairie Whale
Great Barrington, Massachusetts
The Prairie WhaleWHAT: A rustic yet sophisticated gathering spot in the Berkshires where country charm meets urban flair. WHY: Great Barrington, benefiting from a cultural exchange along the Taconic State Parkway, welcomed Mark Firth from Marlow & Sons who embraced farm life. This Mytoury boasts all the farm-to-table elements: reclaimed wood decor, cornhole on the lawn, and fresh ingredients from Firth’s own farm, which raises sheep and pigs (the restaurant’s name nods to this breed’s 19th-century moniker). Dishes include dressed-up classics like potato-leek soup topped with a poached egg and pork goulash served with braised cabbage and spaetzle. No pretensions, no website, and no reservations. — A.T.
178 Main StreetGreat Barrington, MA 01230(413) 528-5050 | facebook.com/PrairieWhale
Morgan YeagerRow 34
Boston, Massachusetts
WHAT: Traditional New England seafood shack favorites with thoughtful modern twists from the Island Creek team, known for their premium shellfish shipped daily from Duxbury, Massachusetts, to top-tier restaurants across the U.S. WHY: There’s no better place to indulge in exceptional raw-bar offerings, including the sought-after Row 34 oysters, boasting a minerally merroir akin to French Belons. Both styles of lobster rolls — Maine (with creamy mayo) and Connecticut (served with hot butter) — achieve perfection here, along with any item that meets the fryer or grill. Pair these delights with a curated selection of sophisticated sours and Old-World vins blancs. — J.H.
383 Congress StreetBoston, MA 02210(617) 553-5900 | row34.com
Sarma
Somerville, Massachusetts
Bill AddisonWHAT: A vibrant restaurant celebrating the rich and diverse flavors of the Middle East. Chef-owner Cassie Piuma blends her culinary creations with the seasonal offerings of New England, utilizing produce from co-owner Ana Sortun's farm. WHY: With nearly a dozen years at Oleana, Sortun’s innovative restaurant in Cambridge, Piuma is well-versed in the rising passion for Turkish and Middle Eastern cuisines. At Sarma, she crafts her own evocative dishes, inspired by the mezze banquets of meyhanes (Turkish taverns). Her creations might include squid topped with peanut dukkah, dolmas made from hollowed cucumbers, and spanakopita enhanced with za’atar, olives, and pickled hot peppers. — B.A.
249 Pearl StreetSomerville, MA 02145(617) 764-4464 | sarmarestaurant.com
Pat PaiseckiSportello
Boston, Massachusetts
WHAT: A contemporary trattoria from culinary maestro Barbara Lynch, cleverly masquerading as a bright, casual lunch counter. WHY: While every spot in Lynch’s culinary empire offers something special, this often-overlooked gem — nestled between her cocktail haven, Drink, and her upscale French restaurant, Menton — radiates a lively atmosphere filled with both expertise and freshness. Classically trained “short-order cooks” expertly create modern twists on regional Italian classics. Try the duck prosciutto crostini with rhubarb compote, salsa verde, and burratini; marinated mackerel paired with fresh chickpeas and chile oil; or house-made strozzapreti with rosemary-infused braised rabbit and picholines. — J.H.
348 Congress StreetBoston, MA 02210(617) 737-1234 | sportelloboston.com
Waypoint
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Andrea MerrillWHAT: An indulgent seafood haven in Harvard Square led by the talented chef Michael Scelfo. WHY: Bold and inventive cooking that embraces richness, employing fat, salt, and vibrant flavors: the finest ingredients. Fresh bucatini is elevated with smoked egg yolk, bottarga, pecorino, and luscious uni. The wood-roasted char belly, with its irresistibly crispy skin, is served cassoulet-style over creamy ceci beans, enhanced by grilled grapes and lemon. The cocktail menu impresses with creamy milk punches, intriguing house infusions (like squid-ink mezcal), and a commendable selection of absinthe. — J.H.
1030 Massachusetts StreetCambridge, MA 02138(617) 864-2300 | waypointharvard.com
Uni
Boston, Massachusetts
Bill AddisonWHAT: In 2002, Uni began as a small sashimi spot hidden in a corner of Ken Oringer’s flagship Clio. Last year, Oringer chose to let this former side project shine on its own. WHY: It was a brilliant move. Oringer and executive chef Tony Messina transformed Uni into a cutting-edge izakaya that features innovative takes on global street food, all built on precise techniques and a commitment to quality ingredients. The result? A thrilling flavor journey where hamachi sashimi pairs with banana, black truffle, and pork-belly croutons; sea-urchin toast is elegantly topped with lardo and seaweed pesto; and wagyu dumplings stand out with cheddar dashi and braised lettuce. — J.H.
370 Commonwealth AvenueBoston, MA 02215(617) 536-7200 | uni-boston.com
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Moxy
Portsmouth, New Hampshire
Moxy/FacebookWHAT: A thought-provoking small-plates restaurant where dishes and drinks reflect Portsmouth’s rich history, natural resources, and the whimsical creativity of chef Matt Louis, a Per Se alum. WHY: Louis infuses his food with boldness, presenting dishes that would have raised eyebrows among locals just five years ago in this charming coastal town. The staff cultivates a dedicated farm plot, sources oysters from nearby Great Bay specifically for this venue and its sibling, Franklin Oyster House, and features foraged ingredients like nettles alongside invasive green crab. Both the team and the menu narrate the region's history, evoking colonial times with dishes like hasty pudding fries paired with molasses barbecue and buttermilk dip, or a modern twist on the New England dinner featuring corned beef brisket, napa cabbage, and Raye’s maple mustard. — Rachel Forrest
106 Penhallow StreetPortsmouth, NH 03801(603) 319-8178 | moxyrestaurant.com
Polly’s Pancake Parlor
Sugar Hill, New Hampshire
Emily A. CôtéWHAT: A former carriage house of a White Mountain farm, transformed in 1938 by 'Sugar Bill' and Polly Dexter into a charming tea room celebrating the delights of maple syrup sourced from their sugarbush. WHY: The legacy of Sugar Bill lives on as his descendants continue to serve hearty fare accompanied by a variety of maple products to enhance each dish. While pancakes and waffles are the stars of the show, no visit is complete without indulging in a scoop of ice cream drizzled with Maple Hurricane Sauce, a delightful concoction made by simmering apples in syrup to create a sweet, earthy glaze. — M.S.
672 NH-117Sugar Hill, NH 03586(603) 823-5575 | pollyspancakeparlor.com
RHODE ISLAND
Bill AddisonAl Forno
Providence, Rhode Island
WHAT: A cornerstone of fine dining in Providence since 1980, Al Forno was founded by Johanne Killeen and George Germon, who introduced their luxurious takes on Italian-American cuisine. WHY: The restaurant’s consistent energy and creativity keep it at the forefront of culinary appeal, with no reservations taken. Arrive early or late, and kick off your meal with their renowned grilled pizza, which first brought the couple national acclaim. It’s a delightful, oddly shaped creation, with a crispy crust and toppings like kale pesto and pine nuts that sing with flavor. Save room for Killeen’s exquisite fruit crostatas or a tempting platter of warm cookies after indulging in the rich baked pasta or savory clam dishes. — B.A.
577 South Water StreetProvidence, RI 02903(401) 273-9760 | alforno.com
Oberlin
Providence, Rhode Island
OberlinWHAT: A charming neighborhood gem known for its remarkable ability to elevate crudo and pasta—two staples of American dining—into extraordinary culinary experiences. WHY: After debuting their intimate counter-only tasting-menu spot Birch in 2013, Benjamin Sukle and his wife, Heidi, launched Oberlin in early 2016, skillfully tapping into Providence’s rich Italian-American roots. The crudos are presented in their most refined form, featuring fresh raw fish (Connecticut royal red shrimp, bluefish, and delicate silvery scup) simply adorned with olive oil and lemon. This minimalism sets the stage for their sumptuous, house-made pasta like chitarra cacio e pepe. — B.A.
186 Union StreetProvidence, RI 02903(401) 588-8755 | oberlinrestaurant.com
Bill AddisonO Dinis
East Providence, Rhode Island
WHAT: A robust brick establishment adorned with pinstripe-blue awnings, serving as a haven for hearty, comforting Portuguese cuisine; the Ocean State is home to the largest Portuguese-American community in the U.S. WHY: Natalia Paiva-Neves and her father, Dinis Paiva, create a welcoming, come-as-you-are vibe—part neighborhood hub, part restaurant. Locals and expats alike savor traditional Portuguese staples like bacalhau na brasa (grilled salt cod with boiled potatoes, topped with crispy garlic and sautéed onions), bacalhau de natas (cod baked in rich cream), and carne de porco alentejana (marinated pork with fried potatoes and littleneck clams). Pairing your meal with a refreshing bottle of Vinho Verde enhances the experience. — B.A.
579 Warren AvenueEast Providence, RI 02914(401) 438-3769
North
Providence, RI
NorthWHAT: One of the rare spots in the West End that stays open past 10 p.m., attracting industry insiders with a diverse menu that ranges from Momofuku-inspired creations to classic Southern fare, all with a local Rhode Island twist. WHY: They don’t accept reservations, and waits can be lengthy. Service might come off as playfully irritable. However, these minor inconveniences are quickly overshadowed by the inventive dishes served at the six tables in the nautical-themed dining area. The compact kitchen excels at crafting tiny country ham biscuits alongside spicy dan dan noodles featuring mutton, squid, and fermented chiles. Their companion bakery offers a similarly delightful assortment. — Molly Birnbaum
3 Luongo Memorial SquareProvidence, RI 02903(401) 421-1100 | foodbynorth.com
The Red Dory
Tiverton, RI
Steve JohnsonWHAT: The next chapter for chef Steve Johnson, who previously closed his Cambridge restaurant Rendezvous in 2014, offering deceptively straightforward dishes in a charming one-story building with views of the Sakonnet River, just 45 minutes south of Providence. WHY: With a wood-fired oven in the dining area and picnic tables on the waterfront porch, Red Dory feels more like a summer retreat than an upscale dining spot. Yet, beneath the canvas sails hanging from the cork ceiling, Johnson creates culinary magic with local seafood, such as tender Rhode Island squid sautéed with hearty borlotti beans and arugula, or linguini coated in red sauce and clams harvested nearby. The lemon pudding cake, a favorite from Rendezvous, delivers a burst of sunshine, regardless of the season. — M.B.
1848 Main RoadTiverton, RI 02878(401) 816-5001 | reddoryrestaurant.com
VERMONT
ArtsRiot
Burlington, Vermont
ArtsRiotWHAT: A lively venue in Burlington's South End arts district, serving bold bar food inspired by classic French techniques. WHY: In late 2014, co-founders PJ McHenry and Felix Wai moved on from a lackluster 'kitchen collective' idea, bringing on the dynamic chef George Lambertson to refine the menu. Since then, with assistance from chef de cuisine Jean-Luc Matecat, Lambertson has transformed the initially hesitant restaurant into a cornerstone of the South End’s vibrant culinary landscape. Here, farmers, artists, and drag queens mingle while enjoying dishes like black-garlic ramen adorned with chicken torchons, pigs' feet, and lemongrass. And don’t miss the massive burgers, generously topped with American cheese and special sauce, available stacked up to four patties high upon request. — Hannah Palmer Egan
400 Pine StreetBurlington, VT 05401(802) 540-0406 | artsriot.com/restaurant
Hen of the Wood/FacebookHen of the Wood
Waterbury, Vermont
WHAT: A delightful showcase of Vermont's rich, year-round harvest. WHY: When late winter feels like an endurance test, turn to the menu at Hen of the Wood, where Eric Warnstedt unveils treasures like aged cheeses from hidden caves, sweet-roasted root vegetables, and dishes featuring pig's ears. This chef has been crafting mushroom toasts long before they became a trend. Visit again in summer to savor fresh corn, lamb, and fried green tomatoes paired with kale and currants. — A.T.
92 Stowe StreetWaterbury, VT 05676(802) 244-7300 | henofthewood.com
Kismet
Montpelier, Vermont
Brent HarrewynWHAT: A cozy, softly lit dining venue just a stone's throw from the state capitol; renowned for its strong ties with local farms and early adoption of plant-forward cuisine. WHY: Crystal Madiera has been a trailblazer in vegetable-centric cooking for a decade at her intimate State Street Mytoury, where locals flock for delicate beef or root vegetable carpaccio and roasted beets topped with smoky lentils, ground hazelnuts, and a dollop of labneh. In winter, it’s the go-to spot for comforting bread puddings served in rich bone broth. — H.P.E.
52 State StreetMontpelier, VT 05602(802) 223-8646 | kismetkitchens.com
Matthew PetersonMisery Loves Co.
Winooski, Vermont
WHAT: Innovative dishes that have elevated Winooski from a quiet corner of Burlington to a vibrant culinary hub. WHY: Chef-owners Aaron Josinsky and Nathaniel Wade delight in transforming foraged ingredients into surprising takes on familiar favorites. In spring, expect a rustic lasagna featuring nettle-infused pasta layered with morels and ricotta, all served in a light mushroom broth. By midsummer, savor local crawfish presented simply on stoneware, paired with brown-butter emulsion, and follow the servers’ tip to remove the heads and savor the rich river juices within. — H.P.E.
46 Main StreetWinooski, VT 05404(802) 497-3989 | miserylovescovt.com
SoLo Farm & Table
South Londonderry, Vermont
Ali KaukasWHAT: Fresh, local cuisine that defies typical Vermont stereotypes of cheese and maple syrup. WHY: Six years ago, Chloe and Wesley Genovart left New York City to establish their restaurant in this quaint Vermont community. Frosty sunchoke soup banishes winter gloom, while summer brings an array of 20 tomato varieties from SoLo’s own garden. Wesley’s Spanish upbringing adds Mediterranean flair to a menu rich with house-made charcuterie, octopus, quail, and rabbit. Be sure to try his torrija, a decadent bread pudding made with local dairy and spiced to perfection. This is Vermont with a twist. — Darra Goldstein
95 Middletown RoadSouth Londonderry, Vermont 05155(802) 824-6327 | solofarmandtable.com
Sign up for Notes From a Roving Critic, Bill Addison’s newsletter →
CONTRIBUTORS
Molly Birnbaum is based in Providence, Rhode Island, serving as an executive editor at America's Test Kitchen.
Hannah Palmer Egan covers food, drink, and agriculture in Vermont.
Sally Ekus is a literary agent and co-founder of the comprehensive culinary agency, The Lisa Ekus Group.
Rachel Forrest is a food writer and restaurant critic residing in Exeter, New Hampshire, and Austin, Texas.
Anestes Fotiades is the creator of Portland Food Map, a resource dedicated to the dining and food scene in Portland, Maine.
Darra Goldstein is the founding editor of Gastronomica; her latest cookbook is Fire + Ice: Classic Nordic Cooking.
Jolyon Helterman serves as the restaurant critic for Boston magazine and was previously the deputy editor of Cook’s Illustrated. His culinary writing has appeared in Coastal Living, Yankee Magazine, Hemispheres, New York magazine, The Boston Sunday Globe Magazine, Serious Eats, and Every Day with Rachael Ray.
Helen Rosner serves as Dinogo’s editor at large.
Michael Stern is the co-founder of Roadfood.com and, alongside Jane Stern, has authored over 40 books on American cuisine and cultural topics. The Sterns' 17-year 'Roadfood' column in Gourmet magazine has received three James Beard journalism awards.
Amy Traverso holds the position of senior food editor at Yankee Magazine, is the author of The Apple Lover's Cookbook, and co-hosts Weekends with Yankee, a television series produced in collaboration with WGBH.
Korsha Wilson is a food writer, Culinary Institute of America graduate, and former restaurant worker. She founded A Hungry Society, a blog and website that celebrates the diversity of food culture and aims to foster a more inclusive food environment.
The South's 38 Essential Restaurants | The Best Restaurants in America 2016 | The Best New Restaurants 2016 | The Best Restaurants in America 2015
Bill Addison serves as Dinogo's restaurant editor, traveling across the country to discover America’s must-visit Mytouries. Explore all his writings in the archive.
Edited by Lesley Suter Copy edited by Emma AlpernMap illustration by Courtney LeonardSpecial thanks to Matt Buchanan, Sonia Chopra, Amanda Kludt, Mary Hough, Adam Moussa, James Park, Helen Rosner, Jenny Zhang
