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Tây Ninh, in the distant past, was a region within the ancient kingdom of Funan, dating back to the 8th century under Thủy Chân Lạp. Consequently, Tây Ninh carries traces of ancient cultures that once thrived here. Among them, two clusters of ancient temple architecture cannot go unmentioned - the Bình Thạnh ancient tower and the Chót Mạt ancient tower - possibly constructed during the Óc Eo cultural era of the ancient Funan kingdom.
Bình Thạnh Ancient Tower
Bình Thạnh Ancient Tower is situated in Bình Phú hamlet, Phước Bình commune, Trảng Bàng town, Tây Ninh, along provincial road DT786, approximately 70km from Ho Chi Minh City. To reach Bình Thạnh Tower from Ho Chi Minh City via QL22 (towards Tây Ninh) to Trảng Bàng town, there are two routes: cross through Thành Thành Công Industrial Zone or take QL22 to Gò Dầu town, continue towards the Mộc Bài border gate until reaching DT786, then turn left and drive a few kilometers.
Bình Thạnh Ancient Tower is nestled in a refreshing green area with shady trees.
When approaching from the Mộc Bài border gate, a signboard reading “Historical and Cultural Monument Bình Thạnh Tower” will be seen on the right side of DT786. The tower is about 100m from the road, across a rice field. Within the premises, there is also the Bình Thạnh Temple.
The Bình Thạnh Temple is also located within the vicinity of the tower complex.
Dating back to the 8th century, Bình Thạnh Tower was rediscovered by French explorers in the late 19th century (1866). Recognized as a Historical and Cultural Monument in 1993, the tower underwent extensive restoration from 1998 to 1999.
Bình Thạnh Ancient Tower is a cluster of three brick towers aligned on a North-South axis, believed to be remnants of the Óc Eo cultural period. Upon rediscovery in the late 19th century, only one tower remained standing, one had completely collapsed, and the third tower had almost vanished, leaving only traces of brick pits beneath the tower.
Remnants of the second tower are preserved under a protective roof. The third tower has left no visible trace.
Once a religious structure of the ancient Chân Lạp people, now nestled amidst rice fields and orchards in a border province between Vietnam and Cambodia, the tower complex is often peacefully quiet. Occasionally, groups of tourists from nearby areas stop by for a brief photoshoot before continuing their journey.
Ancient carvings bearing the marks of time alongside newly restored sections.
Chót Mạt Ancient Tower
Chót Mạt Ancient Tower is located in Xóm Mới hamlet, Tân Phong commune, Tân Biên district, Tây Ninh, approximately 130km from Ho Chi Minh City and just over 20km from Tây Ninh City on QL22B towards the Xa Mát border gate. Rediscovered by the French around the same time as Bình Thạnh Ancient Tower, Chót Mạt Tower was also recognized as a Historical and Cultural Monument in 1993.
The tower stands amidst a rice field, about 1.5km from QL22. Finding the tower is straightforward, thanks to well-placed directional signs. However, reaching the tower during the rainy season can be challenging, involving a final stretch of dirt road of a few hundred meters, especially for motorcycles.
Chót Mạt Tower stands amidst the rice fields, surrounded by lush greenery.
Chót Mạt Tower consists of a pair of ancient towers. When discovered in the late 19th century, one tower had collapsed and was buried, while the remaining tower on the ground suffered significant erosion on its walls and had lost its roof. Archaeologists conducted excavations and painstakingly restored the collapsed tower next to it, investing considerable effort to reconstruct the collapsed portions of the remaining tower, giving it the appearance it bears today.
Although quite dilapidated when found, Chót Mạt Tower has been extensively restored.
Despite its dilapidated state at the time of discovery, Chót Mạt Tower fortunately retained numerous intricate carvings and deity statues on its structure. These artifacts are invaluable resources for scientific study of the sculptural art from the tower's construction period and serve as a foundation for reconstructing the carvings and deity statues on the wall panels, which were later supplemented during the restoration process.
Despite its crumbling form, Chót Mạt Tower retains numerous ancient carvings.
Bình Thạnh Ancient Tower and Chót Mạt Ancient Tower both represent religious architectural structures from the ancient culture of Tây Ninh. In modern times, worship in these towers follows the Vietnamese style, with altars, incense, candles, and flowers, whether it be in Chót Mạt Tower or employing the Yoni pedestal in Bình Thạnh Tower. The religious practices in these towers preserve the traditions of the modern Vietnamese people.
Holy See of Tây Ninh
In contrast to the aforementioned ancient towers, which are no longer in use, Tây Ninh boasts a renowned active religious architectural complex: The Holy See of Tây Ninh, located in Long Hoa ward, Hòa Thành town, just about 5km southeast of the city center of Tây Ninh.
Main Gate of the Holy See of Tây Ninh
2Upon entering through the Main Gate, you encounter three large towers housing the relics of the three supreme leaders and founders: Đức Hộ Pháp in the center, flanked by Đức Thượng Thẩm and Đức Thượng Sanh on either side. Next is the Nine-Story Tower, a miniature version of the celestial palace with 9 diminishing layers, painted in the colors of Green, Red, and Gold. Following a spacious courtyard, you reach the Great Assembly Ground, and at the far end, facing the Holy Temple, stands a triangular-shaped column, 20m tall, adorned with a large multicolored fan symbolizing the three principles of the faith: Green – Red – Gold.
The Great Assembly Ground and Main Gate, as viewed from the Holy Temple.
The Holy Temple is a grand architectural structure, measuring 97.5m x 22m in footprint. Facing the West, it features two 25m-high towers: Bạch Ngọc Chung Đài (Bell Tower) and Lôi Phong Cổ Đài (Drum Tower). The temple is divided into three areas from front to back: Hiệp Thiên Đài – Cửu Trùng Đài – Bát Quái Đài, with the temple's foundation gradually rising towards the rear.
The Holy Temple, the Mother Temple of the Cao Dai Great Way Universal Redemption Church
Inside the Holy Temple of Cao Dai
Within the sanctuary, the Hiệp Thiên Đài area houses statues of the three highest leaders: Đức Hộ Pháp in the center, flanked by Đức Thượng Thẩm (on the left in the image) and Đức Thượng Sanh. Cửu Trùng Đài follows Hiệp Thiên Đài with a 9-level platform and two rows of columns, each adorned with 18 dragon-carved pillars. Finally, the Bát Quái Đài features 8 dragon-carved columns surrounding the Eternal Sphere with a diameter of 3.3m, symbolizing the universe with the Divine Eye and 3,072 stars around (representing 72 globes and 3,000 worlds).
Note on the temple's regulations: Visitors are allowed to take photos inside the Holy Temple, but capturing individuals in the frame is strictly prohibited (except for members of the faith). Violators, upon discovery, will have their photos deleted and be asked to leave the sanctuary.The doctrine of the religious sect, along with the intriguing history of the formation and construction of the Holy Temple, holds many fascinating details. With some research before visiting the Holy See, tourists will gain a deeper understanding of both the Holy See and the Cao Dai faith.
Author: Ngô Hòa Nam
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