Buzz
There are two main reasons why someone visits Varanasi, India: for exploration or contemplation of life's journey.
A Place that Embraces Two Kinds of Souls: Travelers from Afar and Those Contemplating Destiny
If you decide to explore the city of Varanasi in India, be mentally prepared to witness the profound rituals taking place here. Below is the narrative of Gavin Fernando, a News correspondent, sharing his impressions during a visit to this sacred city situated along the holy Ganges River.
The City of Funerals
Varanasi, a city in the state of Uttar Pradesh in central India, stands as one of the most ancient and sacred places in Hindu religion and mythology. Locals believe that if someone is cremated here after death, their soul will find eternal peace in heaven. Some hotels even open their doors exclusively to elderly guests seeking solace.
In Hindu, the term 'Ghat' translates to a staircase leading down to the riverbank. This spot attracts over 40,000 foreign visitors annually. Anytime you stroll along the Ganges, you'll easily spot locals bathing in its sacred waters. While outsiders may perceive it as a polluted river, for the people of India, the Ganges is believed to cleanse all impurities.
Throughout the bustling streets, there are vendors with carts selling fried samosas, and souvenir stalls are present in every nook and cranny. However, most tourists come here not for shopping but to witness the funeral ceremonies of Indian traditions.
A Story from an Insider
As someone haunted by a fear of death, I detest zombie movies, always holding my breath passing by cemeteries and avoiding standing at the end of a funeral procession. However, this time, I was determined to confront my own fear to understand the cremation rituals in Varanasi.
One late afternoon, a man named Rahul agreed to take me on a small boat to observe the ceremony.
“You're not afraid of dead bodies, are you?” he asked as we left the dock. I remained silent.
While in the middle of the river, suddenly, the sound of drums and chants resonated through the air. Piercing through the lingering rays of the sunset, we witnessed about twenty men wrapping something on a boat approaching the shore. As we got closer, I discovered it was a body shrouded in orange fabric being placed on a bamboo stretcher.
The body was carefully laid along the stone steps facing the river, in front of the onlookers. Dozens of tourists sat on boats, silently observing the sacred ritual. Hundreds of Indian men shouted and tossed wood onto the funeral pyre. While funeral ceremonies usually unfold in solemnity, this scene seemed to reflect the city's chaotic nature.
Rahul warned that photographing the bodies is disrespectful to the departed and their families. However, many nearby tourists may be unaware or indifferent; they continue pointing their cameras toward the flickering flames and clicking incessantly.
Later, I boarded Suraj's boat, a priest conducting ceremonies at the ghat, for a conversation. He explained: “Cremation is a Hindu ritual, where the soul is cleansed of sins and liberated from the physical body. It's revered as the way to guide the soul to nirvana.”
According to this priest, only men participate in the ceremony, as women tend to cry emotionally. Tears and sorrow can hinder the soul's transcendence. Hence, Indian women usually stay at home to commemorate the deceased.
Cameras continued to flash around as we conversed. I asked Suraj if families feel saddened by the actions of tourists.
“For us, this isn't a ritual of death. It's a celebration of life. A spiritual ceremony connecting humanity,” replied Suraj. He shared that in India, whether rich or poor, everyone comes to aid the family of the departed. They wear brightly colored attire and gather around the cremation pyre. Despite the grief, there is also joy in the midst of it.
Suraj asserts that someone would be mistaken to label Varanasi as a city of death. Earlier this year, CNN faced severe backlash online for releasing a documentary titled “City of the Dead” featuring Varanasi.
Renowned speakers, authors, and journalists in India criticized CNN for depicting Varanasi as lacking authenticity and going against Hindu beliefs. They emphasized it as the “oldest city” and also the “City of Life.”
In the golden twilight, Rahul started the boat's engine, Suraj approached me and asked, “Do you believe in karma? I do. I've helped you witness this scene; now, how will you reciprocate? Pay it forward, and you'll encounter goodness.”
He continued, “Some people pay 2,000 rupees (around 710,000 VND), others give 5,000 rupees (approximately 1.7 million VND), depending on their generosity.”
Perhaps there's nothing truly sacred when someone profits from these rituals.
According to Thu Huong/Vnexpress
***
Explore: Travel Guide by Mytour
MytourFebruary 7, 2018
