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The Southwestern part of South Vietnam is a destination familiar to many. Each place visited carries its own unique cultural charm, especially the provinces of Tien Giang and Ben Tre. Located just over 70km south of Ho Chi Minh City, the city of My Tho in Tien Giang province proves to be an intriguing place for those who appreciate culture, scenic landscapes, delicious cuisine, and the friendly local community.
Water coconut – the distinctive tree species of the Mekong Delta water region.
Due to its proximity to Ho Chi Minh City, traveling here by road is quite convenient, simply following the QL1A route and Trung Luong Expressway. Recently, I spent a day escaping the hustle and bustle of the city, heading to this place to savor the feeling of tranquility.
Departing from Ho Chi Minh City early in the morning to avoid traffic, I rode my motorbike along the route towards An Lac roundabout, heading to QL1A through Long An province, straight to My Tho. After about an hour of riding, I reached the Trung Luong intersection, took a break, and enjoyed a famous bowl of My Tho noodle soup at the city's gateway on Ap Bac Street, My Tho.
Savoring the renowned My Tho noodle soup.
Noodle soup is a distinctive dish in many provinces in the Mekong Delta, but My Tho noodle soup in Tien Giang stands out. Originally rooted in Cambodia, noodle soup was adapted to fit Vietnamese cuisine and gradually became a popular dish. Its uniqueness lies in the noodle strands - considered the 'soul' of the dish, made from fragrant rice, resulting in a dry, chewy texture with a slightly sour taste. This characteristic sets apart this dish from noodle soups elsewhere. In addition to the noodle strands, the broth is equally important, simmered from bone marrow, with added dried squid and crispy fried shrimp.
1. Vinh Trang Pagoda - a unique ancient pagoda in My Tho.
After finishing breakfast, I headed to the first destination, Vinh Trang Pagoda - a temple with a unique blend of East and West cultures. Situated on Nguyen Trung Truc Street, My Tho City, Tien Giang Province, this temple traces its history back to the Minh Mang era in the early 19th century, built by Mr. and Mrs. Tri Huyen Bui Cong Dat. Initially, it was just a small meditation place for the retired couple. In 1894, Venerable Thich Hue Dang from Giac Lam Pagoda (Gia Dinh) was invited to be the head monk. He organized the reconstruction of the temple, shouldering the responsibility of the foundation with support from fellow monks. Eventually, it became a grand temple named Vinh Truong, commonly known as Vinh Trang Pagoda. Over generations, Vinh Trang Pagoda has expanded and become a solemn place for Buddhists and pilgrims from far and wide.
The Main Hall of Vinh Trang Pagoda.
The temple captivates visitors with its grand scale, intricate architecture, and delicate decorations. Covering an area of about 2 hectares, it includes various sections such as the Amitabha Buddha Tower, the main hall, the Avalokitesvara Tower, the tower garden, the scripture distribution room, and more. In front of the temple, two majestic and splendid triple gates were constructed in 1933 in a classic architectural style. The distinctive feature of these gates lies in the art of combining pieces of porcelain to illustrate the Buddha's history with various mythical creatures like dragons, unicorns, turtles, phoenixes, fish, snakes, and more, creating an impressive and unique display.
Vinh Trang Pagoda is constructed in a fusion architectural style, blending Asian and European influences such as French, Roman, Thai, Burmese, and Cham architectures. The pillars and corridors on the left side of the temple will give you a feeling and scenery reminiscent of a European hallway. Particularly, on the exterior of the main hall, you can observe ornate patterns in Renaissance style or door arches in Roman style. French ironwork, Japanese enamel tiles, familiar Chinese characters in ancient calligraphy, and Vietnamese Romanized script all come together to create a distinctive, antique charm for the temple. Shaped in the form of the Vietnamese character 'Quoc' (National), the temple consists of four interconnected sections: Front Hall, Main Hall, Ancestors' House, and Rear House.
The serene courtyard section of the pagoda.
Inside the temple, each building is constructed with a combination of cement and precious wood, with high foundations and sturdy surrounding walls. The interior features numerous colorful stained glass windows, decorative horizontal lacquered boards, and carefully crafted couplets. With over 60 precious Buddha statues made from wood, bronze, or baked clay, all adorned with sparkling gold, the most prominent are the 18 Arhat statues flanking the main hall walls, carved from jackfruit wood in the early 20th century.
Outside the temple grounds, there are various ornamental trees, a lotus pond, and notably, three large Buddha statues located in the temple courtyard and the park in front. These include the statue of Buddha Shakyamuni entering Nirvana, the statue of Laughing Buddha, and the statue of Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara.
The three large Buddha statues at Vinh Trang Pagoda.
2. Explore the Four Sacred Islets on the Tien River.
After visiting Vinh Trang Pagoda, I moved to the My Tho boat dock to embark on a journey across Thoi Son islet - one of the Four Sacred Islets on the Tien River named after the quartet of mythical creatures: Dragon, Unicorn, Turtle, and Phoenix. Notably, Tan Long Islet (Dragon Islet) and Thoi Son Islet (Unicorn Islet) belong to My Tho City, Tien Giang Province, while Quy Islet and Phung Islet are in Chau Thanh district, Ben Tre Province.
The Rach Mieu Bridge spans the Tien River.
If starting from My Tho, you can rent a boat at the boat dock on 30/4 Street. Boat rental prices for touring the islets vary, ranging from 80,000 VND/person for group trips to 300,000 - 350,000 VND/person for solo travelers. While on the boat, you can spot the Rach Mieu Bridge - one of the large cable-stayed bridges in the Mekong Delta connecting Tien Giang and Ben Tre provinces, providing a more convenient transportation option than the Rach Mieu ferry. The inhabitants of the islets primarily engage in aquaculture, boat repair, and cultivate various fruit trees in their gardens.
Simple beauty along the Tien River.
After about 15 minutes of boat ride, I set foot on Thoi Son islet – the largest among the four islets on the Tien River. The locals guided me through various fruit orchards featuring a variety of fruits: durian, rambutan, pomelo, guava, orange, mango, jackfruit, and custard apple. During fruit season, we could pick and enjoy fresh fruits right from the orchard. Next, I sat down to savor honey tea while listening to the traditional Southern folk music called Don Ca Tai Tu. Additionally, on the islet, there were activities reflecting the rural lifestyle such as ditch fishing, rowing through small channels, holding a snake, observing beekeeping for honey and bee products like honey and pollen. Moreover, I indulged in a lunch featuring local specialties such as rice snails, deep-fried elephant ear fish, and fish sauce hotpot.
Village paths on Thoi Son islet.
Subsequently, the locals took me on a sampan ride through small channels within the islet, exploring the tranquil countryside scenery with closely spaced rows of water coconut trees on both sides. Gliding through each channel on the sampan, one could feel the serene and cool ambiance surrounded by lush banana and water coconut trees along the waterways.
Rowing a traditional sampan on Thoi Son islet.
Tranquil scenery of the riverside area.
Rows of water coconut trees along the small canal.
After a delightful sampan ride, I returned to the boat and continued the journey to explore the other two islets (Quy Islet, Phung Islet) in Ben Tre Province.
Quy Islet - the smallest of the four islets on the Tien River. What makes Quy Islet special is its well-preserved long-standing fruit orchards planted in straight rows, providing a perfect spot to relax under the shade of the trees. Next is Phung Islet - the final islet in the tour. Ben Tre is renowned for coconut trees, and on Phung Islet, there are villages specialized in making coconut candies, rice paper, and beautiful coconut-based products. Enjoy engaging activities like monkey bridge walking and pond swimming. Additionally, marvel at the unique coconut religion architecture created by Mr. Nguyen Thanh Nam, including the dragon yard and peace tower.
Boats and canoes of the locals on the Tien River.
Area for playing various sports games on Phung Islet.
After exploring Phung Islet, I took a boat back to the My Tho boat dock, picked up my car, and returned to Ho Chi Minh City, concluding a day of discovering the Four Sacred Islets on the Tien River. Though a bit short, the day allowed me to fully experience the simple and tranquil charm of the riverside countryside. If given more time, I would return, stay overnight on an islet, admire the moon over the river, enjoy traditional Southern folk music, and explore more attractions in Tien Giang and Ben Tre.
Author: Tô Minh Trí
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