A unique River Flow awaits, not as you remember.

I always recall an exceptional River Flow. Who dares to return to the River Flow after some time, when the once beautiful and valuable beach is now turning ugly, polluted, and chaotic?

Cô Tô's tourism reveals an extraordinary River Flow.

Returning to Cô Tô Island (Quảng Ninh) after 10 years, I couldn't help but be surprised and amazed by the changes in the town, despite having learned a bit about it through internet information. Tourism development brings significant economic benefits to the island, improving the lives of the local residents, adding more income, and even enriching them.

However, there's something 'not right' that makes me feel uneasy, lacking the 'old' sense of safety I once experienced. Crowded shops and cafes, flashy and colorful signs, busy and indifferent faces. You were right, if you come to Cô Tô to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and end up in the town, don't bother!

In memory, Vàn Chảy beach (on Cô Tô Island) is always associated with a painting of deep blue evenings, a long stretch of pristine white sand, large waves crashing onto the shore, alongside weathered rocks in the water, and a few peacefully anchored boats.

In contrast to the tranquil Hong Van with its calm waves and seaweed gracefully spreading on the sand, Vàn Chảy back then exuded a beauty both intense and gentle, both noisy and serene.

An untouched beach far from residential areas, devoid of any tourist services, the nearest guesthouse is a kilometer away, and the road to Vàn Chảy is just a simple trail.

A decade is not a short time. Houses have sprouted along the path to the coast, though the entrance to Vàn Chảy on both sides still resembles a narrow trail, wide enough for visitors to comfortably ride motorcycles or electric bikes without hesitation.

I parked my motorcycle under a wild coconut tree, a small piece of land but filled with vehicles; it seems tourists are not scarce in this area.

Stepping lightly and with anticipation towards Vàn Chảy, where I await a twilight tint over the pristine and breathtaking beach that once captivated my soul and is now widely renowned through the internet.

However, there's a twist... My gaze freezes, as if the blood in my veins thickens when confronted with a sight I've never seen at any beach. A row of makeshift camps planted on the sandy shore, where the tide is receding, leaving a trail of debris clinging to the pillars of houses, and the sea foaming with pollution.

Beneath the row of makeshift camps covered with prickly black fabric is an array of stalls, bed frames, tables, chairs, hammocks – a chaotic display. It's puzzling why they set up these camps like this when the tide hasn't fully receded, and the water is still deep.

Curiously asking the woman cleaning up trash in the path between the campsite and the restaurants built close to the tree line, something I didn't see at Vàn Chảy 10 years ago, then it all became clear.

These camps are set up to serve tourists coming to Vàn Chảy, after swimming out there where the large waves are crashing fiercely. When the tide completely recedes, those stalls and bed frames will be laid out to transform into a seafood feast table under the night sky.

The row of camps and restaurants has almost entirely taken over the romantic and nostalgic Vàn Chảy coastline, with just a small curved stretch remaining on the right side where a group of backpackers is camping amidst broken trees, plastic bottles, and scattered bags.

Shivering. I never thought I would find myself sitting on that soaked makeshift stall amidst the foamy seawater, contemplating a delicious evening meal.

A sense of regret wells up, making me choke back my words. Just want to ask, why, why subject the sea to this kind of 'forced occupation'?

Why does no one among those responsible on this island have a broader perspective on sustainable tourism, on stable and long-term development, instead of this hasty and opportunistic economic mindset like now?

Who would dare to return to Vàn Chảy after some time, when this beautiful and valuable beach has degraded into ugliness, pollution, chaos, deteriorating due to the seemingly innocent yet disruptive tourist services?

I've had many opportunities to explore the island beaches of the Philippines, Thailand, Malaysia... and noticed our neighboring countries always take great care to maintain the cleanliness and natural beauty of their beaches. Their tourism services are well-regulated, with a certain distance from the shore, yet they attract and retain visitors, truly a sustainable profit-making tool.

Compared to these nations, our island seascape may not lag behind in 'beauty,' but with the current 'live for today' business approach, I wonder how long places like Hong Van, Vàn Chảy, Cô Tô, Minh Châu, Sơn Hào... can withstand the test of time?

I always remember a Vàn Chảy unlike this! But today, I feel helpless, oh Vàn Chảy!

Source: Tuổi Trẻ (Youth)

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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour