A village where houses change direction every week in Indonesia

Visiting Lake Tempe and hearing stories about the drifting village here is an unforgettable experience for travelers.

Exploring Indonesia, touring a village where houses change direction every week at Lake Tempe

Located in the southern part of Sulawesi island with an area of 130 square kilometers, Lake Tempe is one of the 10 largest freshwater lakes in Indonesia. Here, tourists will have the opportunity to observe the diverse nature of bird species and learn about the indigenous life in a long-standing village in Indonesia.

Departing from Makassar city – the capital of Sulawesi island, our group welcomed a 7-seater car straight to Sengkang town. The 250 km distance from Makassar is not too long but continuous slopes make the midnight journey seem longer. In addition to the large bus companies with daily schedules, tourists can take local night buses to save more but have to wait until the bus is full before departure.

Currently, there are still no public boat routes for tourists to visit. But you can easily find a local boat to conduct your exploration. The price for a round trip to the village is about 200,000 rupiah ($14) for a boat with a capacity of 3 – 4 people depending on the boat owner. You can also negotiate if you travel alone.

The sturdy boat swiftly navigated me deeper into the heart of the lake. Along the banks, one would encounter wooden platforms, mosques, and women washing clothes while children bathed on bamboo rafts. As we ventured further, the scenery opened up to lush vegetation, white herons soaring over tall grass, and various colorful birds nesting among the riverside bushes or further out, the small boats of fishermen.

What drove me to this place was the village nestled deep within, its houses built on stilts of woven bamboo. In 1985, the first three houses were erected, gradually growing to the current 30. The inhabitants belong to the Bugis tribe, known for their unique cultural heritage in Indonesia.

The uniqueness of this village lies in the ever-changing positions of its houses, dictated by the wind's direction and strength. When the wind blows, the houses begin to shift, causing the entire village to float from one place to another on the water's surface.

Today, to maintain stability and prevent collisions between houses, locals have learned to anchor the floors from below. Due to waves and movement, the anchored ropes deteriorate over time, requiring the entire floor to be replaced every two years.

According to the tales of elder Umi, one of the village's first fishermen, every week her family releases part of the anchor below to 'go with the flow.' When asked why, she chuckles, saying it's a long-standing habit, and stepping out each morning to see the same view feels uncomfortable. I wonder, with the sky, trees, and the lake surrounding them, how much the landscape truly changes here?

The village inhabitants mainly rely on fishing and processing fish for their livelihoods. Men are the primary labor force, while women ferry children to school by boat every morning and stay at the market to trade. Their lives lack modern conveniences, with most daily activities revolving around the water.

Listening to the boat captain's and elder Umi's family stories provided me with a fresh perspective on Indonesian life. Spending the morning there just gazing at the water clouds, enjoying the tranquility rarely found in urban areas. Returning to Sengkang town under the scorching sun, I couldn't forget the sound of water pedaled by boats and the local radio echoing across the vast sky.

Source: Phong Vinh/Vnexpress

***

Reference: Travel Guide Mytour