Adventure in Da Giang during the Dry Season

The dry season turns the Da River into a canvas of extensive sandy banks, with villages perched on mountain slopes veiled in dense layers of mist.

Exploring Da Giang in the Dry Season

Scenic Areas during the Dry Season

“For the Da River during this season, the only feasible route is downstream from Van Yen to Nam Phong, exclusively by waterway.” This guidance came from a local as we navigated our way from Phu Yen to Quynh Nhai (Son La). Despite the challenges posed by boats grounded in muddy shallows and the fast-flowing water due to the dry season, the decision to embark on this adventure proved irresistible.

However, our enthusiasm was not deterred. My colleague and I opted for the overland route, Van Yen – Bac Phong, planning to traverse to Quynh Nhai and then navigate upstream from there. Easy to say, but the reality of reaching the predetermined destination proved to be an arduous journey.

Arriving in the Bac Phong area, the road is currently undergoing upgrades, resulting in numerous slippery mud patches. Every few meters, there are these pitfalls, protruding onto the road, making the motorcycle carrying two adventure seekers like us constantly rev the throttle, swerve, and tumble like unbridled horses, struggling to overcome a stretch of road less than 2 km.

Reaching the area of Da Do commune, we continued to the Da Pho pier (Bac Phong) to travel up the reservoir by water. The compact iron boat, maneuvering skillfully, took us away from the pier, upstream along the Da River. Along both banks of the Da River this season, the exposed sandbanks seem to stretch continuously for dozens of kilometers. Here and there, right along the riverbank, conveniently during low water levels, grass covers the land, and herds of cattle graze leisurely. The hilly masses, resembling overturned bowls, perennially submerged in the water, manage to maintain their contours, adorned with lush green grass.

Lo Van Toan, cultivating pepper at the bow of his boat, occasionally turns to share stories with us. Toan has been living in the Chieng Bang region (Quynh Nhai) all his life but chooses to abandon his wife and child at home year-round to drift along the river like this. When asked why, he chuckles and replies succinctly: 'Enjoyment.' His peculiar hobby prevents Toan from staying in one place like others. There are moments when he regrets not having enough time for his family. However, a personality trait is hard to change, and if the thrill of drifting, meandering like the water, is no longer his passion, his wife might not have fallen for him like a toppled domino.

Many times navigating the boat in this stretch, Toan claims that the scenery of the Da River during the dry season is the most beautiful. Not an exaggeration, for the eyes see the truth. The Da River at this time reveals itself after sandy patches and alluvial banks with gentle, winding stretches. The shallower water allows locals on both riverbanks to take advantage, casting nets to catch fish as they return home. They catch numerous flocks of delicious wild ducks, unsellable but edible, so they sun-dry them for gradual consumption.

Continuing to the left bank of the Da River, the sediment deposited by the swirling water into the slope has broken down into individual blocks, pieces of earth tumbling down into the flowing river. We had to navigate the midstream to ensure safety, facing the waves by following the squeeze-and-spread technique to reach the shore safely.

The Excitement of Muddy Fish Season on Da River

From late June until now, in the Da River reservoir area, if you're fortunate, you might encounter the muddy fish season. I remember, during a noon in Da Do commune (Phu Yen), Mr. Dinh Hanh, the head of Tang Lang village, showed great excitement and joy at thunderbolts upstream. It turns out that during floods, muddy fish drift downstream, densely congregating and flowing from the upper reaches.

In this rainstorm, Tang Lang village came alive. Apart from the thunderous sound of rain, Tang Lang buzzed with activity, hastily preparing equipment, and calling each other to the river to catch fish. One villager mentioned that last year during the flood, it was terrifying elsewhere, but here it was a good omen. The flood signaled the arrival of the muddy fish season.

However, it's peculiar because not every place or stretch of the river has muddy fish to 'harvest.' Rumor has it that the muddy fish are concentrated in an area just over 10 km long in Tang Lang. Why? Because this region has many high rocky mountains, winding rivers, and deep water, creating numerous twists and turns. Therefore, when fish drift here, the water weakens them significantly, making them vulnerable. They scatter, regrouping into pairs, flowing with the swift flood. Each year, not many can catch muddy fish, as it's quite a challenging task.

Standing on the edge of the boat and peering into the muddy water, we didn't just see fish; we observed shrimp and prawns drifting here, forming groups like swarms of ants, densely covering the calm water surface. Excitedly, we all rushed to shore, armed with knives and nets, running along the water's edge to catch the larger fish. Then, together, we cheered and tossed them onto the boat.

Fishing Trade on Da River

When the early morning mist still hangs thick over the river, it's also the time when the fishermen on the Da River set out in their boats to cast their nets. I met Mr. Lo Van Khan (born in 1966) in Bung village, Chieng Bang commune, Quynh Nhai district, when he was diligently pulling the net on the Da River. According to Mr. Khan, this area was originally a highland commune, and it was only after the construction of the Son La Hydroelectric Plant, forming the reservoir area, that the local people acquired boats and nets for fishing.

The hydroelectric reservoir has two water seasons: the flooding season and the dry season. Fishing activities here mainly take place during the extended flooding season, lasting about 5 months per year. Additionally, to boost the resettlement area's economy, local households boldly invest in and develop fish farming.

That's why Chieng Bang is known as one of the largest aquaculture areas in Quynh Nhai. Over 72 hectares are dedicated to aquaculture with 155 fish cages, and the total aquaculture output is estimated at 36 tons. Putting down the net, jokingly asking about income, Mr. Khan candidly replies, 'My family has four members, and the income from selling fish is 400 million VND per year.' It's then apparent how the economy in the Da River reservoir area is flourishing day by day.

Sitting on the boat, I counted four types of nets and one tool that Mr. Khan and the locals use for shrimp and fish catching. Some are placed on the water surface to catch carp, while others are lowered into the river to catch catfish and perch. Gazing at the fish cages, Mr. Khan narrates, 'In previous years, when there were more fish in the reservoir, we sometimes caught dozens of kilograms, mainly snakehead fish, perch, catfish, carp, barb, and shrimp. Occasionally, we even caught heavy carp and perch.'

The caught fish are sold in the morning to restaurants, eateries, or local residents. Selling them early in the market can fetch around 600,000 - 700,000 VND, but some days there might not be any sales. On average, though, they earn 200,000 - 300,000 VND per day, contributing to additional income for households.

Continuing downstream to the Pá Uôn bridge area, renowned as the 'headquarters' of cage fish farming. This is not an exaggeration since this location attracts many households and aquaculture cooperatives involved in cage fish farming beneath the hydroelectric reservoir. Ms. Vu Thi Loi, Head of the Hanh Loi Aquaculture Cooperative, has the largest fish farming area in the region. This woman from Thai Binh province manages 32 fish cages (14 for catfish, 7 for snakehead fish, and the rest for carp, tilapia, tilapia, rohu, etc.). On average, this place sells about 10 tons of fish annually, providing regular employment for four workers with salaries ranging from 3 to 5 million VND per person per month.

After a day exploring the reservoir, we rest in a Dao ethnic village with the peculiar name Ngai Thau. It's a resettlement village of Can Co commune. Although it's a resettlement village, when migrating to the new village, the locals preserved the traditional architectural style. Here, besides enjoying dishes like white rice, river fish, and wild vegetables, we also relish traditional dances and melodious folk songs performed by Dao ethnic youth, usually sung when searching for a lover. In the fading twilight, a Ngai Thau villager openly expresses, 'Our village folks only have warmth to offer guests. This is the second time our village has hosted guests from other places. When guests come to the village, it feels like a festival for the whole community.'

As reported by Vietnam Legal Newspaper

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Reference: Travel guide Mytour