Lost in the maze
Without proper direction, you easily wander.
An Bang Cemetery spans approximately 40,000 square meters, stretching close to the sea, with over a thousand graves ranging from 40 to 400 square meters, adorned with gates reaching up to 7-8 meters high. Even the skilled craftsmen who specialize in building tombs here cannot recall the exact number. The construction cost for each tomb ranges from hundreds of millions to several billion Vietnamese dong, some even nearing tens of billions. Some tombs, built only a few years ago, are demolished to make way for larger ones, each succeeding structure more imposing than the last. Rows upon rows, tightly packed together, the colorful array of tombs sprawls across the sandy hills, giving the impression of stepping into a deeply mysterious land.
Inside the tomb.
Diverse Architectural Styles of Tombs
The uniqueness of the tomb village lies not only in the scale of the graves but also in the diverse architectural styles ranging from Buddhism, Christianity to Confucianism... blending characteristic architectural features of tombs in Hue, creatively crafted by craftsmen according to the wishes of the homeowners.
The wheel of reincarnation and Buddhist symbols on a tomb.
A tomb in the style of Christianity featuring a statue of Virgin Mary.
Another tomb with a modern flair.
In the past, motifs such as dragons, unicorns, turtles, and phoenixes were reserved for emperors, but now you can see them on many tombs here. On stone steps, majestic creatures stand guard over the tombs. On pillars, dragons and phoenixes twist and turn as if soaring through the deep blue sky.
Guardian creatures watching over the tombs.
The Four Gentlemen Plum Orchid Bamboo Chrysanthemum symbolizing the four seasons Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter, intricately sculpted in relief.
Intricate Patterns and Carvings
There are also serene watercolor paintings. It seems as if the living want to present the whole world to the departed. Colorful porcelain pieces, meticulously crafted and intricately shaped.
3. Do you believe this to be the final resting place of the departed?
The towering triple gate, the distant gazebo for scenery appreciation, the spacious courtyard, the miniature rock garden serving as a backdrop... resembling more of a noble estate. The tombs juxtaposed with residential homes often blur the lines between tomb and shrine.
Pathway to the Tomb.
Miniature Rock Garden Inside the Tomb.
Pillars Resembling Royal Tombs.
Beyond this unique tomb complex, An Bang also boasts numerous stately ancestral temples. Along the concrete roads winding into each small hamlet, one can easily spot grand ancestral temples with closed gates and high walls, only opening on the occasion of ancestral death anniversaries, amidst the scent of incense.
A quaint chapel nestled amidst the village.
Comparing it to my hometown, An Bang village appears relatively affluent despite some dilapidated houses still standing. The graves here and the houses are constructed with funds mainly sent by relatives abroad, predominantly from the United States, as a gesture of filial piety towards their ancestors and homeland.
And every day, more new graves continue to be erected.
4. How to get to the 'city of tombs'?
From the city of Hue, there are two ways to travel to An Bang village:
Author: Do Thi Thuy Hang
* Article participating in the Mytour Golocal program.
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