April in Bình Liêu – the season of wild buckwheat flowers

The sight of white buckwheat flowers blooming along the northeast border patrol route, accompanied by the melodious tunes of a harmonica played by my Cẩm Phả companion, kept Bình Liêu etched in my memory.

Exploring Bình Liêu in April to admire the wild buckwheat flowers

In many northern mountainous regions, buckwheat is cultivated as an industrial crop for its timber, seeds, and bark used in traditional medicine. From the perspective of backpackers, buckwheat now serves a new purpose, both aesthetically and economically, making it a notable feature on every travel map during the spring-summer season.

Reminiscing about Bình Liêu

Northeast and northwest regions are not just adorned with rice or ban flowers; they also boast the beauty of buckwheat flowers, adding a fresh allure to the travel route. As evidenced by the gathering of adventurers exploring Bình Liêu during the buckwheat season and their presence at the miner memorial in Cẩm Phả City (Quảng Ninh), the number of participating motorcycles has exceeded 10.

More than half of them are newfound friends.

Bình Liêu is the northernmost mountainous district of Quảng Ninh province, situated in the bow of the border between Đông Triều – Móng Cái, with approximately 43km of border roads adjacent to China. It is over 100km from Hạ Long City and nearly 30km from Tiên Yên town.

The diverse terrain structure of the highlands includes peaks over 1,000m above sea level such as Cao Ba Lanh and Cao Xiêm. The agricultural land area is limited, mainly used for forestry cultivation of specialty crops like star anise, cinnamon, buckwheat, and orange.

The ethnic groups in Bình Liêu consist of Tày, Dao, Sán Chỉ, Kinh, and Hoa.

Although it takes a full day of driving from Hanoi, in recent years, many backpackers have been drawn to travel to Bình Liêu to experience the border patrol routes, admire the majestic mountains, and savor the indescribable feelings as the evening falls in the border area, or the sense of pride each time they check-in at the landmarks.

Along the border patrol route of Bình Liêu are the Hoành Mô, Bắc Phong Sinh, and Pò Hèn border gates. The road from the capital to the beginning of Móng Cái is quite convenient, so a weekend getaway can also become a memorable journey.

One of the most remarkable experiences in Binh Lieu is the indescribable feeling when driving on the winding northeast patrol road, right behind that mountain wall lies another country's road.

Somewhere on the misty high peaks amidst lush vegetation are border milestones marked with blood and tears, lonely houses bravely clinging to the land, resilient forest guardians, the sincere, rustic children of the remote border region toiling earnestly for their livelihoods.

We often let our steeds roam on that vast road, sometimes veering off to visit a border milestone, capturing a souvenir photo, then hitting the road again. Hoanh Mo border gate is still bustling on weekends, with rows of vehicles waiting for customs clearance.

Seeking permission from the border guards to visit milestone 1317 like many other tourists before heading off again. Here's milestone 1320, 1321, then a long stretch across Phai Lau and Phat Chi hamlets (Dong Van commune) to conquer milestones 1326, 1327 on the high peaks.

April - the season of buckwheat flowers

From Cam Pha city, we drove towards Mong Duong - Mong Cai, passing through the market town of Tien Yen to grab some lunch for the group. Tien Yen has a section of old streets resembling a 'forgotten town' with its architecture of ancient row houses bearing the vague imprint of time.

Right next door is a town undergoing a metamorphosis with urban development and commerce flourishing. Tiên Yên Market sells a variety of northeastern specialties such as forestry products like cinnamon, star anise, various seafood from the eastern sea, and other essential items.

Driving along National Highway 18C towards Hoành Mô, looking across the Tiên Yên River, you'll see long mountain ranges and lush green forests, with glimpses of blooming buckwheat flowers.

Crossing the river, approaching the border patrol road from the intersecting paths through villages, the legendary concrete road stretches long, winding up the towering mountain slopes. On one side is Vietnam, on the other is China, a road we've traversed multiple times when trekking to national landmarks.

In April, the border patrol road transforms into a buckwheat flower path, so captivating that our group, once noisy and boisterous, falls silent. We stop, park our vehicles by the roadside, and walk along the field towards the riverbank, where a lone buckwheat flower emits its fragrance.

A young man named Phả, with a deeply cherished and bonded friendship, carries a birthday cake for his April-born friends hundreds of kilometers through mountainous terrain to celebrate their birthdays.

The harmonica tunes of Huy echo melodiously along the banks of the Tiên Yên River, beneath the pure white buckwheat flowers, just like the pure friendship we've nurtured together on our emotional border journey.

Many of us that day came from afar, not native to Quang Ninh, yet truly moved by the hospitality of the people of Quang Ninh.

In April, buckwheat flowers bloom vibrantly along tens of kilometers of roads. The old, large, sprawling trees, alongside newly planted ones that still look tender like children, yet the flowers bloom in clusters, shining brightly and gracefully.

Buckwheat flowers are white with golden stamens in the center; as they age, the stamens turn a purple-red hue, emanating a faint fragrance. Fallen buckwheat flowers on pine branches, on stone fences, on the green grass carpet create a captivating natural painting.

Since that day, in Binh Lieu border area in April, a season of nostalgic flowers has emerged. Who among the companions returning that day, like me, couldn't hold back the longing for Binh Lieu?

By Thuy Tran/Tuoi Tre Newspaper

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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour