Bà Đanh Temple, nestled in Ngọc Sơn commune, Kim Bảng district, is a name often invoked in the popular saying 'Deserted as Bà Đanh Temple,' a phrase deeply ingrained in the Vietnamese consciousness.
Bà Đanh Temple – A Serene Sanctuary Amidst Hà Nam Province

Bà Đanh Temple sits snugly by Ngọc mountain, embraced by the Đáy river on three sides. Its main entrance faces a pedestrian path, while its triple gates are close to the riverbank, elevating them seven steps and topped with carved finials.

The triple gates consist of three bays and two stories, with a double-tiered tiled roof above. Surrounding the wooden floor are balustrades adorned with ornamental patterns, while this level serves as the bell tower. The lower three bays feature limewood doors.

Outside the entrance stand two bronze columns, while atop the triple gates perch a pair of dragon guardians. Flanking the main gate are smaller entrances with octagonal roofs and crescent-shaped, intricately carved doors. On ordinary days, visitors enter through these smaller doors, with the main gate opening only during ceremonies.

Bà Đanh Temple venerates the Buddha and also houses statues of the Supreme Old Man of the Mountain, the Southern Deity, the Northern Deity, and worships the Four Palaces (Pháp Vân, Pháp Vũ, Pháp Điện, Pháp Phong). Particularly, the temple venerates the goddess Pháp Vũ, the goddess of wind.

According to legend, the revered goddess Pháp Vũ oversees the regulation of rain and wind, bringing favorable weather for abundant harvests, thus the temple is named Đức Bà (Holy Mother) of Đanh village, commonly known as Bà Đanh Temple.

At the central space of the temple stands a statue of Bà Đanh in a serene meditation posture atop a black throne, with a benevolent, gentle, feminine, and approachable countenance. The harmony between the statue and the throne creates an alluring aspect of the sculpture art of the Red River Delta region.

Nearly all architectural and carving art of the temple is concentrated in the main hall - the place for daily rituals. The main hall is a five-bay structure made of limewood, with gabled roofs and also features two raised dragons. Observing from the middle of the brick courtyard, visitors can see the raised sculpture system of 'four dragons guarding the moon' on the roof of the main hall.

All four dragons, from their shapes to their bodies, are sinuous and lively, with vivid eyes, whiskers, claws, and fins, appearing both graceful and fierce, as if swirling and flying in the vast space. These dragons here bear the colors of the Nguyen dynasty era.

At the end of the two corridors and connected to the main hall are two towering, majestic columns. Each column features raised sculptures of the four sacred animals: dragon, unicorn, tortoise, and phoenix, symmetrically, harmoniously, and proportionally. Every line and curve demonstrates the artistic talent of ancient craftsmen.

Despite its beauty and ancient grandeur, Bà Đanh Temple is known for its desolation and solitude. There have been numerous theories to explain this phenomenon, but the most convincing is the temple's profound sanctity. Those passing by or entering for worship, if disrespectful or impolite even with just a word, will be punished. Consequently, pilgrims are increasingly scarce in visiting the temple.


Furthermore, the temple is located far from residential areas, with few people living nearby. Surrounded by rivers, dense forests, and vegetation, very few passersby visit the temple except during major Buddhist festivals. These reasons have contributed to the temple becoming even more deserted.


Today, the temple has been renovated and expanded, attracting more visitors. Thus, the old saying has been revised to: 'Once deserted, now bustling like Bà Đanh Temple.' Bà Đanh Temple currently houses many antiques, rare scriptures, especially statues of the Buddha, Bodhisattvas, ancestral tablets, stone inscriptions, couplets, and incense burners...

According to Mytour
***
References: Mytour Travel Guide
MytourDecember 29, 2022