During our two weeks on the Balkan Peninsula, the country of Bosnia and Herzegovina perhaps left us with the most contrasting emotions. Despite scattered remnants of civil war, this small nation has fundamentally restored its renowned beauty.
Exploring Europe: Bosnia - Valley Holding the Secrets of Humanity
Moreover, those interested in anthropology have known for nearly a decade now that Bosnia is attracting researchers from around the world. The pyramid valley near the capital Sarajevo, with pyramids larger than those in Egypt, holds many secrets about the ancient human world.
Along the Emerald Waters of the Neretva River
On this European journey, our vehicle set off from the city of Dubrovnik in Croatia, passing through steep mountain roads, especially through numerous tunnels to reach the city of Mostar nestled in the lush valley. Mostar is the capital of Herzegovina, one of the two regions of Bosnia and Herzegovina spanning over 50,000 square kilometers. Bosnia and Herzegovina is not part of the European Union. However, to attract tourists, the country allows Schengen visa holders to enter.

Tourism is truly becoming a vital economic sector in this small nation of just 4 million inhabitants. As we traverse its roads, the life of Bosnia still appears somewhat subdued, with sparse villages and almost every town bearing the scars of war: charred buildings, bullet-riddled walls, and verdant farms struggling to emerge amidst rugged mountain ranges and sparse forests. The sense of fascination for travelers only truly begins as the journey leads into the ancient streets of Mostar. Predominantly constructed during the early 16th century Ottoman Empire era, Mostar bears numerous historical traces of a culturally diverse land, serving as a focal point of convergence between Western and Eastern civilizations since medieval times.

Stepping onto the cobblestone streets of the past, polished by centuries of footfalls, one could easily feel transported back in time. Mostar dazzles with its cultural and religious diversity. Churches, synagogues, and mosques stand mere streets apart, each architectural marvel exuding grandeur and antiquity. Everything gleams under the spring sun, enhanced by the pure emerald hue shimmering from the Neretva River. This river could be deemed the valley's wonder. Its deep, translucent green defies explanation. Adorning its waters are stone arch bridges, reminiscent of ancient citadels.

Mostar, in the local tongue, means 'bridge keepers', signifying the pivotal role bridges play here. The streets lining the river, the oldest and busiest Turkish-style shops, often cluster near bridge bases. Each bridge is a work of art, with Stari Most (Old Bridge) being recognized by UNESCO as a truly exquisite world heritage site, adorned by the most ancient and venerable cobblestone streets.
Legend has it that during the bridge's construction in the mid-16th century, Muslim artisans employed goat's hair, honey, and 300,000 eggs as mortar to build the 456-stone slab bridge, spanning 30 meters. For over four centuries, Stari Most maintained its beauty and structural integrity, until the onslaught of artillery bombardment in 1993 rendered it completely destroyed. Regretting the loss of an invaluable heritage, the United Nations intervened. Nearly a decade later, the bridge was painstakingly reconstructed to its former appearance and color. Interestingly, modern mortars proved inferior in bonding the stones compared to those concocted by Turkish stonemasons centuries ago, leaving engineers in awe of the enduring quality of the original mortar.
While male tourists admire the bridge, women are often captivated by the sight of bare-chested, muscular men perched on the bridge's parapet, ready to plunge into the icy river below. These handsome young men offer to leap into the river for a fee of 20 euros, a unique custom in this land. During the Ottoman Empire era, Mostar's young men would dive off the bridge to impress the Turkish commanders lounging in cafes on the bridge's towers. Their reputation soared in the eyes of the local girls due to this daring act of valor. Over time, bridge diving evolved into a tradition, where a true Mostarian must master the art of 'head-first' plunges into the Neretva River.

Sarajevo and the Enigma of Humanity's Cradle
The capital Sarajevo is about a two-hour drive from Mostar. The journey is quite scenic, with limestone mountains flanking both sides, winding roads alongside rivers, cutting through narrow yet lush valleys. Sarajevo itself is charming, with diverse architectural styles and trees planted throughout. Perhaps due to the city's many hills, homeowners meticulously tend to their brightly colored stone roofs. From above, Bosnia's capital streets present a unique sight with their bright stone roofs. Upon closer inspection, these are limestone slabs cut like tiles and laid over a wooden base.

After an evening exploring Sarajevo, the next morning we booked a tour to visit the Valley of Pyramids not far from the capital. The ticket price for groups of three or more is 40 euros per person, with a three-hour tour. The bus stopped at the valley, and every traveler was astonished to see five pyramids of varying sizes, each as large as a hill, covered in lush greenery. For millennia, locals viewed these hills as peculiar natural landmarks. However, upon first sight of the triangular faces and sharp angles, scientists speculated these were purposefully built pyramids, not natural formations.

In 2005, a research project commenced, enlisting construction companies and geologists to excavate and analyze the pyramid structures. Bosnia then announced to the world the discovery of Europe's first pyramids. Since then, Bosnian pyramid research has become the largest multidisciplinary archaeological project in the world. Among the five pyramids, the largest, the Pyramid of the Sun, stands over 220 meters tall, surpassing even Egypt's tallest pyramid (147 meters). Beneath the grassy surface, Bosnia's pyramids are entirely covered in rectangular concrete blocks. This concrete is extremely durable and low in water permeability. According to scientific organizations in Bosnia, Italy, and France, these concrete blocks, at least ten thousand years old, have far superior quality to modern concrete materials.

The mystery doesn't end there; the valley also includes an extensive complex of tombs and a labyrinth stretching nearly 20 kilometers underground, named Ravnee. We were also taken to explore a short section, where alongside chambers, the labyrinth features an artificial lake. Scientists have found numerous sculptures and pottery in some of the chambers. Bosnia's pyramid complex not only perplexes with its exterior appearance, but geological radar measurements and thermal energy readings of the corridors and chambers inside the pyramids also reveal many peculiarities.

Although not fully understanding the English-language narration, we are aware that the mystery of this pyramid valley remains largely unsolved. The ancient human civilization may have been far more advanced than today's. Yet why did those achievements stagnate, why were they forgotten in a remote valley on the Balkan Peninsula? These are questions that anyone visiting Bosnia will inevitably ponder, like an unforgettable memory from their journey.
By Anh Dao/Businesswoman Saigon
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Reference: Travel Guide by Mytour
MytourMarch 17, 2017