Buzz
Ramadan has arrived in Mumbai. As the Islamic holy month unfolds—referred to as Ramzan in some South Asian regions—a historic street beneath the Minara Masjid springs to life each evening for a food festival. Vendors from across the city welcome fasting Muslims with barbecued delicacies and sweets on this road, known as a khau galli, meaning “eat street.” Everyone in the city is invited. Local photographer Hashim Badani, who has frequented this annual event for years, captured the vibrant atmosphere for Dinogo.
Monsoon season has set in Mumbai, bringing humidity alongside sporadic rain. “I ended up drenched one way or another,” Badani recounts from the shoot. The streets are alive with street-food enthusiasts and Ramadan observers moving in a steady stream, packed together like passengers during rush hour. “You can’t go to khau galli and just stand still,” Badani notes. “You indulge in all this rich food, but by the time you leave, you’ve worked off the sweat.”
There’s an abundance of meat, including chicken tikka and goat brain masala. Yet, the true attraction lies in the sweets, some of which are exclusive to this festival season, according to Badani. At khau galli, patrons enjoy phirni, a sweet rice pudding served in earthen pots, deep-fried malpua pancakes soaked in syrup, and mawa jalebi, spirals of sweet, fried dough.
As Badani snapped photos, vendors eagerly engaged with the camera, offering free treats and pausing just long enough to keep the flow of customers moving smoothly. Many of these hawkers earn as much during this nightly festival as they would in the next six months, Badani reveals.
The market remains vibrant until sunrise, serving post-work diners, late-night crowds, and Muslims grabbing a bite before dawn prayers. During Ramadan, this area of the city attracts many who wouldn’t typically visit the khau galli, and it’s heartwarming, Badani notes, to witness the people of Mumbai uniting over food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
