During Ramadan in Mumbai, a historic street near the Minara Masjid transforms into a bustling food hub at sunset. Known as the khau galli, meaning 'eat street', it comes alive with vendors offering barbecue and sweets for those breaking their fast. This vibrant nightly food festival attracts not just Muslims but all visitors. Photographer Hashim Badani, who has been documenting the festival for years, captures this special moment for Dinogo.
The monsoon season has started in Mumbai, bringing humidity with occasional rainfall. Badani recalls the challenge of shooting amidst the sweltering conditions. Crowds of food lovers and Ramadan participants fill the streets, packed tightly like rush-hour trains. ‘You can’t stand still in khau galli,’ says Badani. ‘The food is rich, but the sweat is just as plentiful by the time you leave.’
Meat dishes like chicken tikka and goat brain masala are popular, but it's the sweets that truly captivate, especially those that are only available during Ramadan. At khau galli, visitors enjoy phirni, a sweet rice pudding served in clay cups, malpua pancakes soaked in syrup, and the deep-fried delicacy, mawa jalebi, with its sugary swirls of dough.
As Badani captured the lively scenes, vendors embraced the camera, sharing free sweets and pausing just long enough to keep the crowd moving. Many of these street vendors earn as much in one night during the festival as they do over the next six months, Badani reveals.
The market remains vibrant all night long, staying open until dawn, when the street vendors have served late-night crowds, post-work Mytours, and Muslims grabbing a bite before morning prayers. During Ramadan, this part of the city, often overlooked, becomes a gathering place for people from all walks of life, and Badani appreciates the way the food brings Mumbai together.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
