In Mumbai, during the holy month of Ramadan, the streets surrounding the Minara Masjid come alive at dusk, hosting a nightly food festival. Vendors from across the city offer barbecue and sweet treats to those breaking their fasts at the khau galli, or 'eat street.' This lively scene, which welcomes everyone, is captured by local photographer Hashim Badani, who has been documenting this annual celebration for years.
The monsoon has hit Mumbai, and between the rain showers, the humidity is intense. 'I was drenched one way or another,' recalls Badani, describing the shoot. The crowds, constantly on the move, pack the street like rush hour on a train. 'At khau galli, you can’t stand still. You’re eating rich food, but by the time you leave, the sweat is gone,' he says.
The festival features an abundance of meat, from chicken tikka to goat brain masala. However, the real attraction is the sweets, many of which are exclusive to this time of year. Badani highlights the phirni (a creamy rice pudding served in clay pots), malpua (deep-fried pancakes drenched in syrup), and mawa jalebi (crispy, syrupy swirls of fried dough) as the crowd favorites.
As Badani captured the vibrant atmosphere, vendors were more than happy to engage with the camera, offering free sweets and pausing just long enough to keep the crowd moving. For many of these vendors, the festival is a lucrative opportunity, with earnings during this month equaling what they make over the next six months.
The market stays open all night, serving late-night revelers, post-work diners, and Muslims seeking a pre-dawn meal before morning prayers. During Ramadan, a usually quiet part of the city transforms into the khau galli, drawing a diverse crowd. Badani finds it heartwarming to witness the people of Mumbai unite through food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
