Buzz
In Mumbai, during the holy month of Ramadan, a historic street near Minara Masjid transforms into a vibrant food festival at sunset. Here, vendors from across the city offer barbecues and sweets to Muslims breaking their fasts. This bustling street, known as khau galli (meaning 'eat street'), welcomes everyone. Photographer Hashim Badani, a long-time visitor, captures the essence of this month-long celebration for Dinogo.
The monsoon season has settled over Mumbai, bringing humidity alongside the rain. 'I was drenched one way or another,' Badani reflects on his experience shooting the festival. The crowds, thick as rush-hour trains, keep moving relentlessly through the street, and the heat and sweat are constant companions. 'You can’t just stand still at khau galli,' says Badani. 'You eat all this rich food, but by the time you leave, you've sweated it all out.'
While there's an abundance of meats like chicken tikka and goat brain masala, it's the sweets that truly capture attention. Many of these desserts are exclusive to Ramadan festivals. At khau galli, visitors indulge in phirni, a creamy rice pudding served in clay bowls, syrup-soaked malpua pancakes, and mawa jalebi, a delicate spiral of sweet, fried dough.
As Badani captured the scene, vendors were eager to engage, offering free treats and pausing just long enough to keep the flow of customers moving. These street hawkers often make as much in one night at this festival as they would in the next six months, Badani shares.
The market stays alive all night, only quieting down when the sun rises. Street food vendors serve everyone from late-night diners to Muslims grabbing a meal before dawn prayers. During Ramadan, this vibrant part of the city, typically overlooked by most, draws crowds for the khau galli. It's a heartwarming sight, says Badani, to witness the people of Mumbai unite over food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
