In Mumbai, during the holy month of Ramadan — or Ramzan as it's known in some parts of South Asia — a historic street near Minara Masjid transforms into a lively food festival at sunset. Vendors from across the city gather to serve barbecue and sweets to Muslims breaking their fasts on the street, which becomes a vibrant 'khau galli' or 'eat street' for the occasion. The event is open to all, and local photographer Hashim Badani, who has been capturing this annual celebration for years, shared his shots with Dinogo.
The monsoon season in Mumbai has begun, and the air is thick with humidity when it's not raining. 'I was soaked one way or another,' Badani recalls of his shoot. With the streets packed like rush hour trains, the crowds of street food lovers and Ramadan participants are constantly on the move. 'There's no way to stand still at khau galli,' Badani laughs. 'You eat all this heavy food, but by the time you leave, you've sweated it all out.'
While the festival features plenty of meats like chicken tikka and goat brain masala, it's the sweets that truly steal the show, especially those unique to this time of year. At khau galli, attendees indulge in phirni — a creamy rice pudding served in clay pots, syrup-soaked malpua pancakes, and mawa jalebi, sweet spirals of fried dough, all deep-fried and dripping with flavor.
As Badani captured the hustle and bustle, the vendors were more than willing to pose for the camera, offering free sweets while ensuring the line of customers kept moving. Many of these street vendors make as much in one night during the festival as they do over the next six months, says Badani.
The market remains open until sunrise, serving late-night patrons, night owls, and Muslims grabbing a meal before dawn prayers. During Ramadan, this part of the city, usually off the beaten path for many, becomes a gathering spot for the khau galli. Badani observes that it's heartwarming to witness the people of Mumbai unite over food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.