Buzz
In Mumbai, during Ramadan — known as Ramzan in parts of South Asia — a historic street near Minara Masjid transforms into a vibrant food festival at sundown. Vendors from across the city welcome fasting Muslims with a variety of barbecued dishes and sweets, allowing them to break their fasts on the street, which becomes a 'khau galli' or 'eat street' during this time. Everyone is invited to join the festivities. Local photographer Hashim Badani, a regular visitor to this event, captured the lively scene for Dinogo.
As Mumbai enters the monsoon season, humidity reigns between rain showers. Photographer Hashim Badani recalls being drenched during the shoot. ‘I was soaked one way or the other,’ he says. The scene is a bustling crowd of food lovers and Ramadan observers, moving as densely as a rush-hour train. 'At khau galli, there’s no standing still,' Badani explains. 'You feast on rich, greasy food, but by the time you leave, you’ve sweated it all off.'
While the meat dishes — such as chicken tikka and goat brain masala — are plentiful, it’s the sweets that truly steal the show, especially those unique to this time of year. At khau galli, visitors enjoy phirni (a sweet rice pudding in clay pots), malpua (deep-fried pancakes soaked in syrup), and mawa jalebi (sweet, spiral-shaped dough, fried and soaked in syrup).
As Badani photographed the lively scene, the vendors eagerly engaged with the camera, offering free sweets and pausing just enough to keep the customer lines moving smoothly. Many of these street vendors make as much during the Ramadan festival as they typically earn over the next six months combined, according to Badani.
The market stays alive until dawn, feeding late-night diners, after-hours crowds, and Muslims grabbing a bite before their morning prayers. During Ramadan, this gathering spot attracts people from all parts of the city, some of whom don’t usually visit the area for the khau galli. It’s heartwarming, Badani notes, to witness the people of Mumbai unite through the shared experience of food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
