Buzz
During Ramadan in Mumbai, the historic street near Minara Masjid transforms at dusk into a vibrant food market. Known as 'khau galli,' or 'eat street,' it attracts vendors from across the city offering delicious barbecue and sweets to those breaking their fast. All are invited to join in the celebration. Photographer Hashim Badani, a long-time visitor of this nightly event, captured the bustling atmosphere for Dinogo.
As the monsoon season hits Mumbai, the air is heavy with humidity, and the streets get soaked by rain. 'I was drenched one way or the other,' says Badani about shooting the vibrant scene. The crowds, thick as rush hour commuters, make the experience even more intense. 'You can’t stand still in khau galli,' Badani adds. 'You’re devouring greasy foods, but by the time you leave, the sweat’s worked it off.'
The street is filled with savory meats like chicken tikka and goat brain masala, but it’s the sweets that truly steal the show, according to Badani. These treats, many available only during Ramadan, include phirni (a creamy rice pudding served in earthenware pots), malpua (crispy pancakes soaked in syrup), and mawa jalebi (delicate, spiraled fried dough dipped in sugar syrup).
As Badani captured the lively scene, vendors greeted him warmly, offering sweets and taking quick breaks just to keep the food lines moving. For many of these street vendors, the Ramadan festival provides more earnings in a single night than they would make over the course of the next six months, Badani notes.
The market stays alive until sunrise, catering to post-work diners, late-night revelers, and Muslims seeking a bite before their dawn prayers. During Ramadan, people from all walks of life gather at this part of the city, which is usually overlooked, to enjoy the khau galli. Badani finds it heartening to witness how the people of Mumbai unite over food during this special time.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
