Buzz
In Mumbai, the Ramadan season brings a vibrant nightly food celebration in the shadow of Minara Masjid. As the sun sets, the historic street transforms into a bustling food market, welcoming Muslims who are breaking their fasts. This street, known as khau galli (meaning ‘eat street’), features an array of vendors offering barbecue and sweets. Locals and visitors alike join in the festivities. Photographer Hashim Badani, a long-time attendee, captured the lively scene for Dinogo.
The monsoon season has arrived in Mumbai, and the humidity is thick when the rain isn’t pouring down. ‘I was drenched one way or another,’ Badani recalls from his photoshoot. As the crowds swarm the narrow streets, bustling with energy and body heat, it feels as crowded as a rush-hour train. ‘You can’t stand still at khau galli,’ Badani explains. ‘After indulging in the rich, greasy foods, you’re sweating it out by the time you leave.’
The meat options at khau galli are abundant, from succulent chicken tikka to flavorful goat brain masala. But it’s the sweets that truly steal the show, especially those that are only available during Ramadan. Badani highlights the indulgent phirni (a rice pudding served in clay cups), malpua (crispy pancakes soaked in syrup), and mawa jalebi (sweet, fried dough spirals) as the real crowd-pleasers.
While Badani captured the vibrant energy of the food festival, the vendors were more than happy to engage with his camera. They generously offered sweets and paused briefly to ensure the crowd kept moving smoothly. Many of these vendors make as much during the Ramadan festival as they would over the next half-year, Badani notes.
The market stays alive all night, only winding down at sunrise after the street-food vendors have served late-night revelers, post-work diners, and Muslims grabbing a meal before dawn prayers. During Ramadan, this area of the city, typically less frequented, becomes a gathering spot for everyone. It’s heartwarming, Badani observes, to witness Mumbai’s diverse community uniting over food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
