Buzz
For a perfect bowl of 'bun thang', fresh eggs are essential. They should be thinly sliced into delicate strands resembling wisps of clouds, ensuring a tender texture. Similarly, the 'gio lua' must be of superior quality, avoiding any industrially processed alternatives. Only then can the slices withstand gentle cutting without breaking.
The pickled turnip must exude a fragrant aroma and maintain its crispness, indicative of proper sun drying. It should be sliced delicately, akin to the style used in Japanese sashimi. Fresh shrimp paste, lime, chili, coriander, and mint are also paramount, contributing to the flavorful essence of the 'bun thang' bowl.
The broth for 'bun thang' must unequivocally be chicken-based, eschewing any pork or beef alternatives to avoid undesirable odors. Simmering chicken bones with grilled shallots and ginger, supplemented with a dash of dried scallops or shrimp, imparts a rich sweetness. After straining the broth, it is brought to a vigorous boil before being ready for use.
Moreover, presenting a bowl of 'bun thang' is akin to the intricate art of Ikebana flower arrangement. The blanched noodles are arranged in two-thirds of the bowl, with chicken slices, including skin, neatly nestled in the center. Symmetrically placed bundles of egg and gio lua complement each other, while peeled shrimp rests alongside pickled turnip and fresh herbs. A frothy mixture of shrimp paste, lime, and chili is drizzled over the greens, with a touch of 'ca cuong' essence for added sophistication.
Not long ago, a culinary artisan asserted that arranging 'bun thang' requires a mold, divided into five compartments. Placing this mold atop the bowl, each ingredient is meticulously placed into its designated compartment, akin to parceling land lots before removing the mold and pouring the broth. This method epitomizes the essence of 'bun thang', as 'thang' signifies the mold.
Preparing 'bun thang' is an art, and consuming it is equally dignified. It is often served during Tet festivities as a gesture of profound respect. The dining setting must exude elegance and refinement, with proper seating arrangements instead of haphazardly dining on street curbs. Only then does 'bun thang' truly uphold its esteemed status in Hanoi's culinary realm. It's only second to the ceremonial tea-drinking etiquette, where recipients of the bowl don't just bow to the server but also rotate the bowl thrice clockwise before eating and similarly thrice counterclockwise after finishing their meal before returning the bowl.
Yet, 'bun thang' is essentially not as extravagant or refined as perceived, but rather ordinary like many other types of noodles. It embodies the frugal spirit of the nation, alongside assorted vegetable dishes or Chinese 'tà pí lù'.
Indeed, 'bun thang' was traditionally prepared during Tet as it symbolizes the essence of post-Tet consolidation. After days of lavish feasting, every household (now refrigerators) would have leftovers of chicken, pork, etc. Instead of consuming them separately, they're best utilized in a mixed noodle dish resembling 'tà pí lù' soup.
Leftover boiled chicken from making 'mang mien' is simmered with grilled onions and jicama. Wealthier households opt for dried scallops, shrimp, or squid for added richness. Leftover chicken meat is shredded to save chewing effort. Twisted 'gio' heads are thinly sliced for ease of consumption. Thinly sliced eggs add visual appeal to the bowl of noodles. Pickled turnips, typically enjoyed during Tet, are repurposed for added crunch.
The peculiar combination of laksa leaves and shrimp paste might seem incompatible with noodles, especially ones deemed as high-end. However, for 'bun thang', they are indispensable. As the ingredients for 'bun thang' are typically leftovers, prolonged exposure in Hanoi's humid spring weather can cause spoilage. To counteract this, shrimp paste with lime and chili, combined with laksa leaves, is used along with a dash of 'ca cuong' essence to neutralize any undesirable odors. This essence is the essence of 'bun thang', not the harmony of fatty chicken, creamy eggs, and succulent 'gio' as perceived.
Furthermore, to ensure satisfaction, the broth must be piping hot, bubbling vigorously, enveloping the senses with the aroma of shrimp paste and laksa leaves. This diverts the diner's attention, making the meal more enjoyable and altering the flavor profile. Perhaps it's because the requirement for piping hot broth resembles the Chinese soup tradition that this dish is called 'bun thang'. However, the notion of using a mold to divide the ingredients is unfounded in modern times; no one uses such a contraption anymore, except perhaps as a personal invention.
In essence, 'bun thang' is a creative dish utilizing leftovers, very much rustic and not aristocratic at all. Nowadays, with improved economic conditions, leftovers are no longer used, replaced by fresh ingredients. However, shrimp paste and laksa leaves are still essential; without them, it would just be chicken noodles.
Where to find delicious 'bun thang'? The best 'bun thang' is homemade, especially enjoyed during Tet when families gather. As for the bustling 'bun thang' stalls in Hanoi, even the renowned ones mostly cater to tourists. Here's a guide for true 'bun thang' enthusiasts: Head to Thanh Ha Alley near Dong Xuan Market in the afternoon to buy chicken broth. By then, the pot would have simmered with dozens or even hundreds of chickens, ensuring impeccable quality. Pre-sliced chicken breasts are readily available; just shred them. Purchase good quality gio lua and slice it at home. Eggs are self-prepared and sliced according to preference. Shrimp is optional. Phu Do noodles are thinly cut, so blanch them before serving. Pickled turnips can be homemade or bought from the market. Simmer the chicken broth, season to taste, pour over the blanched noodles, arrange the toppings, ladle the broth, and enjoy while it's hot.
According to Parsley/Ngoi Sao
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Reference: Travel Guide Mytour
MytourApril 21, 2017
