Pù Luông, also known as the Pù Luông National Nature Reserve, stretches across the territories of Bá Thước and Quan Hoá districts in Thanh Hoá province. This place is acclaimed as the Northwest gem of the North Central Coast.
Comprehensive travel experiences in Pù Luông
WHERE IS PÙ LUÔNG LOCATED?
The eco-tourism chain in Pù Luông consists of numerous villages scattered across 4 communes: Thành Lâm, Thành Sơn, Cổ Lũng, and Lũng Cao in Bá Thước district, Thanh Hoá province.
Approximately 130km west of Thanh Hoá city. 20km from Cành Nàng town (Bá Thước district). 180km from Hanoi in the northwest direction.

What's the Attraction of Pù Luông?
Indulge! Just lie still, breathe, and reconnect with nature. Pù Luông isn't for those who prefer luxurious travel and bustling crowds. It's a land of majestic yet untouched natural beauty, with serene terraced fields alongside traditional stilt houses of the ethnic villages here. Pù Luông is perfect for those seeking relaxation, experiential travel, community-based tourism, and eco-tourism. The scenic beauty and local life here leave lasting impressions of tranquility, enticing you to return.

It might sound like a remote jungle, hard to reach, but it's not that difficult, especially for first-timers. There are various routes to get here, offering plenty of travel options.
Traveling to Pù Luông by coach:
* Option 1: If you're traveling by coach from Hanoi, you can catch one from Giáp Bát, Nước Ngầm, or Mỹ Đình. A popular coach route to Pù Luông is Hanoi – Bá Thước – Thanh Hóa, with tickets priced around 120,000 VND per person. The coach will arrive at Cành Nàng town (Bá Thước, Thanh Hóa). From there, you can take a taxi or motorbike taxi to Pù Luông, about 20km away. Remember to negotiate the fare beforehand.
* Option 2: Take the resort's private bus, which is probably the easiest. Just find, contact, and book accommodation in Pù Luông. Most resorts now offer bus services to pick up and drop off guests in Hanoi, making it incredibly convenient.
Traveling to Pù Luông by private car:
This part is exciting! There are 4 routes from Hanoi to Pù Luông.
* Route 1: The easiest route!
Hanoi – Xuân Mai – Ho Chi Minh Trail – Cẩm Thuỷ District (Thanh Hoá Province) – Cành Nàng Town, Bá Thước – Pù Luông. It's easy to navigate, just follow Google Maps.
* Route 2:
Hanoi – Xuân Mai – Hoà Bình – National Highway 6 – at the Lồ Market intersection in Tân Lạc District, turn right towards Lũng Vân, Lũng Cẩm – Continue to Lũng Cao – Son Bá Mười – Pù Luông. This route is not suitable for inexperienced drivers.
* Route 3:
Hanoi – Xuân Mai – Hoà Bình – National Highway 6 – Mai Châu Town – Phú Lệ Quan Hoá – Pù Luông. This route is great because you can also explore Mai Châu.
* Route 4:
This route is skipped as it's only suitable for those with a good sense of direction.
Hanoi – National Highway 1 – Thanh Hoá – Bá Thước – Pù Luông.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT?
The climate here is cool and green all year round, so anytime is good to visit. However, the scenery is much more beautiful when the rice fields are in full color. There are 2 rice crops a year here. The best time is from early May to late June – and from early August to late September.

Pù Luông only has a few renowned resorts like Pù Luông Retreat, Pù Luông Eco Garden, Pù Luông Nature Home,… Most of them offer cloud hunting views and swimming pools. However, they can get fully booked during peak seasons or holidays.
This time, I managed to book a room at Pù Luông Retreat just in time. The quality is quite excellent, the rooms are standard and close to nature. The only downside is no TV. But how beautiful it is, you can see clearly in the photos.
The prices for these resorts range from 1.8 to 3.2 million VND per room.
There are also around 40 small-scale homestays here, which are quite affordable. Please search on Google for contact information.

In Pù Luông, you won't have any other choice but to eat at the resort or homestay you're staying at. There are no eateries outside.
Eating here is quite affordable, depending on what you order. The most expensive dish is probably Duck Neck Cổ Lũng.
Duck Neck Cổ Lũng is a famous dish and a specialty of this region. You should try it along with other ethnic dishes like snails, stream fish, and wild bamboo shoots.
The other day, I had grilled duck with honey sauce for 460k and it served 2 people. However, that's the most expensive dish; Western food here is very cheap.

If you have time, you should explore the following spots:
* Kho Mường Village – Bat Cave:
Kho Mường is a pristine valley in the buffer zone of the Pù Luông Nature Reserve, where the White Thai people have settled and lived for generations. A notable feature of Kho Mường Village is Bat Cave – a mysterious cave hidden in the tranquil area. The entrance to the cave is a steep dirt path covered by dense forest. From the outside, Bat Cave is just over 100m long, but its interior extends over 2.5 km, with many twists and turns deep into the earth. The cave is remarkably beautiful and worth visiting.
From here, you can also visit 4 other Muong villages: Bản Bốn, Thành Công, Cao Hoong, and Bản Kịt, to explore their unique cultural characteristics.
* Bản Đôn – The Iconic Water Wheel of Pù Luông:
The tourism hub of Pù Luông, where you'll find the most beautiful terraced fields in the area and plenty of accommodation options.
The Water Wheel or Guồng nước – a symbol of agricultural civilization of the past.
*Son – Bá -Mười: The Sapa of North Central Vietnam: A route for those who love conquering challenging roads. Travelers who don't know about it are missing out. However, most people don't go from Pù Luông up here; instead, they usually come from the Hoà Bình side, which is much more convenient.
*Bản Hiêu – Hiêu Waterfall
Bản Hiêu and Hiêu Waterfall in Cổ Lũng commune are perfect for water lovers and waterfall enthusiasts. Oh, and a special thing: Duck Neck Cổ Lũng here is famously delicious.
* Pù Luông Peak:
An enticing trekking route for trekking enthusiasts only.
Pù Luông is the name given by the Thai ethnic people, meaning the highest mountain in the region. Pù Luông Peak rises over 1,700m and is only for adventurous travelers. Just note this down for reference, no need to know everything before you go.
* Phố Đòn Market:
When visiting Pù Luông, tourists should not miss the opportunity to participate in the Phố Đòn market, held every Thursday and Sunday. This is a trading hub not only for goods but also a place for cultural exchange among ethnic groups: Kinh, Thai, Muong,... The products here are mainly self-produced and when selling, people can also use equivalent value items to exchange for what they want. The market is located on the way to Bản Hiêu.

In general, going to Pù Luông just seems far, but everything for me is cheaper than other places. I went for a 2-day-1-night trip, booked a combo for #1700k/person at the resort, with round-trip transportation from Hanoi, free breakfast + lunch on the arrival day.

CONS AND NOTES:
– Evenings here are a bit dull, so it's good to buy some snacks and a little alcohol, then sit back, listen to the crickets, and chill together.
– It's a good idea to bring a portable speaker for music because there's no TV here.
– Everything else for me is just right and okay.
Wishing you all a wonderful experience at Pù Luông with some 'so deep' photos.
By Nguyen Hong Thu Trang
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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour
MytourSeptember 9, 2022