Conquering the Summit of Nàng Thi

Hoàng Su Phì boasts the second-highest peaks in the Northeast region and magnificent terraced fields. The place also shines in a vibrant array of colors in the markets of the La Chí, Dao Đỏ people...

Exploring Hà Giang to Conquer Nàng Thi's Summit

Touching the Peak of Chiêu Lầu Thi

Boldly standing in the northwest of Hà Giang province lies the treacherous and profound Tây Côn Lĩnh mountain range, rising above the majestic city clouds. Within this range are the two tallest peaks in the Northeast of the country: Tây Côn Lĩnh and Chiêu Lầu Thi (second only to Fansipan).

After savoring a bowl of 'Phở của người La Chí' at the roadside eatery, we teamed up with new acquaintances to conquer 'Nàng Thi' or the 'Nine-story Staircase,' the local names for Chiêu Lầu Thi.

The first few kilometers from Vinh Quang town are quite convenient, but as we turn onto provincial road 197 from the Nậm Dịch junction, the road starts to ascend and keeps going higher and higher. The entire motorcycle group always has to shift to gears 1 and 2 to climb the steep incline.

The scenery along the road this season features terraced fields awaiting the upcoming planting season. The yellow patches of soil interspersed among the green mountains and forests are enchanting. The Chảy River winds like a giant snake through the majestic peaks.

Stopping for a break at a small Mông woman's roadside stall, we were warned by the shop owner: ascending Chiêu Lầu Thi involves crossing the 'dry stream,' now reduced to only stones and rocks due to the soil being washed away after heavy rain.

Indeed, right from the start, the road is steep and rugged, with uneven rocks and no safety railing along the mountainside. Some riders feel their hands trembling, requesting the group to stop after covering a section of the route.

Approaching the 'dry stream,' the number of stones increases, covering the entire road surface. Riders constantly lean forward and downward as if riding a horse. There are stretches where the wheels can't grip the road and only travel on the surface of stones and rocks.

After nearly three hours, we finally overcame the just over 10km stretch to reach a unique homestay, about 2km from the summit of Chiêu Lầu Thi. At an altitude of over 2,000m above sea level, darkness descends desolately, chilly, with only the sounds of countless species of nocturnal birds reigning in the night.

Phan Van Phuc – the deputy secretary of Ho Thau commune, who opened the first and only homestay near the summit of Chieu Lau Thi – warmly welcomed us with the motto 'Eat vegetables if there are vegetables, eat porridge if there is porridge,' a truly down-to-earth approach.

The late dinner around 22h was lively, and both the host and the group of travelers forgot about the fatigue. With only about 5 hours of sleep, we rose again to conquer the remaining altitude.

The highlight of the night was the ancient primary forests, hundreds of years old, covered in green moss. We then passed through patches of ancient tea trees – Shan Snow tea, living at an altitude of over 2,000m, enduring winds from all directions and the four seasons of mist, creating the essence of tea and becoming a 'tonic' for human health.

After nearly an hour, we touched the stainless steel peak marker at the summit of Chieu Lau Thi (installed in 2016), indicating an elevation of 2,402m, a well-deserved reward for the conquerors.

The Red Dao Market

After two days of rest to recover on Chieu Lau Thi mountain, we hit the road again to explore the market culture of Hoang Su Phi – a district with 24 communes and 1 town inhabited by various ethnic groups. Among them, the Red Dao and La Chi people still preserve unique traditional cultural features through their markets.

There are dozens of periodic markets of the La Chi and Dao Do people, rotating through different villages. We sought out the Thong Nguyen commune market, where a bustling crowd of Dao Do individuals gathered for trading and proudly showcasing their newly adorned outfits. Sleepy babies nestled behind their mothers, adorned with adorable small hats adorned with red woolen tassels.

A fabric vendor at the market shared that these hats are often handcrafted by Dao women, embroidering intricate patterns for their newborns. The colorful ensembles of red, black, green, yellow, and more, worn by the Dao people, gradually filled the market lanes.

By Hai Duong- Nguyen Duy/Tuoi Tre

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Reference: Mytour Travel Guide