Constructing a Saw Horse

Acquire a couple of appropriate boards for your task. Utilize 2X6 nominal southern yellow pine, as depicted in the illustrations, and consider ripping or splitting them to reduce weight. Alternatively, 2X4 lodgepole, white pine, or spruce without ripping can be used. For outdoor usage, opt for lumber treated to resist rot and insects.

Arrange a work table or surface for measuring and cutting the lumber. Since you're constructing the saw horses, it's presumed you don't possess a set already. However, if available, feel free to use them.

Split the lumber in half if you're utilizing 2X6 boards and they don't contain large knots or need to support significant weight. This reduces both the weight and lumber needed by half (in comparison to 2x6). If using full-sized 2X4s, skip this step.

Determine the leg length for a comfortable working height. For an average 6-foot (1.8m) worker, 34-36 inches (.86-.91m) is suitable; shorter individuals may require adjustments. Building the horses slightly taller is advised, as the legs can be trimmed to fit the user later.

Bevel the first leg when cutting it to length. Aim for a spread angle of approximately 65 degrees from the square line, or 25 degrees from the board's edge for proper leg positioning; these angles should total 90 degrees. Ensure the bevel cuts are flat and straight to fit snugly against the top board.

Cut the back or top board of the horse, making it square on both ends, approximately 42-48 inches (107-122cm) long. Mark about an inch from each end and draw square lines to determine leg attachment points on both sides.

Place the back board on a flat surface, whether a work table, smooth floor, or pickup truck tailgate. Position the first leg on the marked spot and nail it so the bevel snugly fits against the top board's edge. Blunting nail points reduces the risk of wood splitting, and using 8d (8 penny) nails provides sufficient holding power without penetrating both pieces.

Hammer both legs onto one side of the top board, then flip the setup. Hammer the other two legs opposite the initial pair. You can opt for larger nails now, as any points protruding through will reinforce the first set of legs, strengthening the joint.

Position your partially constructed sawhorses upright, measuring approximately 8 inches (20cm) down from the top board. Using a short board, mark it to serve as a horizontal spreader brace between the legs. Aim for roughly 115 degrees on top and 65 degrees on the bottom for a total of 180 degrees, although scribing all braces in place ensures a more precise fit. Use the marked brace as a template to outline three more pieces, ensuring you have two for each sawhorse.

• The 65-degree angle is referred to as '25 from square,' obtained by marking '25 off from 90' using a tool like a 90-degree rafter angle square or a speed square.

Secure the braces using two 12d nails on each end, driving through the leg and into the end-grain of the brace.

~ Carefully nail the braces on each leg pair, ensuring they position the legs for a stable stance on level ground.~ Incorrectly positioned braces will result in wobbly and unstable sawhorses.~ It's worth the effort to hold the sawhorse upright and straight while nailing.

Turn the sawhorse over onto its top board, supporting it or having someone hold it. Cut another board approximately 18 inches (46cm) long, with a 45-degree angle on one end to serve as the diagonal brace. Align the angled end with the spreader brace, mark where it intersects the top board, and cut accordingly. Use this piece as a template and cut three more for a pair of sawhorses.

Secure these braces with the angled end butted into the spreader brace and nailed through from the brace into the end grain, and the marked end to the underside of the top board. This involves nailing across the grain into the bottom of the top board, so use nails large enough to provide a good grip, at least 12d, and blunt the ends to prevent wood splitting.

Ensure the legs of your sawhorses are of equal length and sit level on the ground. If needed, trim any longer legs to ensure the top board remains parallel to the ground.

Complete.

• When using your saw on the sawhorses, adjusting the saw depth correctly can prolong their lifespan.
• Placing an extra 2x4 on top of the sawhorse provides a 'sacrificial' piece of wood that can be replaced when it becomes worn from sawing.
• The 'A' shaped sawbucks for hand saws are typically 20-24' tall, allowing users to kneel on the boards being cut. Adjust the height as needed, considering the length of your saw.

• It's advisable to wear eye protection when cutting lumber and hammering nails.

• A circular saw, tape measure, angle square (or speed-square), hammer, and nails.
• Your choice of lumber. The sawhorses in the illustrations utilized 2–10 foot (0.61–3.0 m) 2X6 boards, ripped to 2 3/4 inches wide, providing 40 feet (12.2 m) of lumber.
  • About 5- 8 foot (2.4 m) 2x4 boards would suffice (or 10- 42 to 48 inch boards).