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Review of a 3-Day, 2-Night Journey in Ninh Binh: Exploring Tam Coc – Bich Dong, Trang An – Bai Dinh, and the Ancient Capital Hoa Lu, by the Horse-Year Solo Adventurer with a Passion for Wanderlust
Date... Month... Year
The scorching heat of May feels like fire, sweat pouring down like rain, making it hard to focus on anything. Just yearning for a getaway, not too far, not too expensive, not too luxurious. Just grab a backpack and go, to admire the landscapes, the mountains, and the skies.
Thinking so, I planned a Hanoi - Ninh Binh tour. Knowing my penchant for wanderlust, I was determined to make it happen. Only in my youthful, unattached years could I go anywhere I wanted.
The failed attempt to find a travel companion for my 3-day, 2-night journey left me disappointed. But fueled by my desire for exploration, I decided to embark on the adventure alone in an unfamiliar place. They say in late May, the rice fields start blooming beautifully. So, off I went to experience it firsthand.
Leaving my friends in envy for letting me embark on a solo backpacking trip, I carried along my humble camera to capture every scenic moment and incessantly check in on Facebook. Let them yearn for missing out on such an exciting journey.
The rebellious spirit within me surged, and imagining their regretful faces brought me joy; I quickly researched the best destinations in Ninh Binh online and set out for the journey of a lone 27-year-old, still single.
Date… month… year
Day 1: Rediscovering the roots of Ancient Capital Hoa Lu
With a big red backpack slung over my shoulder and a humble camera in hand, I hopped on the Hanoi - Ninh Binh bus from Giap Bat station. Getting there early, I secured a decent seat after a short 15-20 minute wait for the bus to depart. The ticket cost only 70k VND, a small price to pay for the adventure ahead. Spending time with friends over matcha lattes and sunflower seeds usually costs just as much anyway.
As the bus rolled on, my emotions started to stir, feeling a mix of excitement and apprehension, wondering if any mishaps would occur. My mind wandered into daydreams, imagining the possibility of meeting a fellow solo traveler and unexpectedly becoming a pair. Oh, the irony of life not always aligning with dreams.
Opted for what seemed like the perfect seat by the window on the bus, only to end up next to a guy reeking of cigarettes, mumbling incomprehensibly. I wasn't in the mood for conversation.
By around 11 a.m., I arrived in Ninh Binh and headed straight to Thanh Dat Guesthouse on Tran Hung Dao Street to drop off my belongings. Determined to indulge in Ninh Binh's specialties and adhere to the motto 'try local cuisine wherever you go,' I asked the guesthouse owner to direct me to a place serving mountain goat burnt rice – a local delicacy. With the philosophy of 'wherever you go, try the local specialties,' burnt rice was a must-try dish.
I must admit, the burnt rice packed in a bag was already delicious, not to mention the additional sauce for dipping, which was indescribably tasty. When I inquired, I learned that the sauce was made from pig heart, stir-fried with shallots, carrots, tomatoes, and straw mushrooms. Satiated, I returned to the guesthouse for a refreshing nap before heading out again in the afternoon.
In the afternoon, I decided to rent a motorbike from the guesthouse and explore the streets, heading first to the historic site of Hoa Lu Ancient Capital. I chose this destination because with only half a day for exploring Tam Coc – Bich Dong, Bai Dinh, and Trang An, I couldn't fit everything in.
Hoa Lu Ancient Capital served as the political center of the first feudal state in Vietnam, preserving numerous relics including palaces, temples, and tombs from the Dinh, Early Le, and Ly dynasties. The site also features several beautiful pagodas such as Ngan Xuyen Pagoda near Ma Yen Mountain and Nhat Tru Pagoda. Each year, Hoa Lu attracts many tourists who come to pay their respects and admire the scenery.
In theory, I understood this, but upon arrival, I couldn't help but marvel at the over 1000-year-old relics. Although they haven't retained their original grandeur, they have absorbed the colors of time and the dust of history. The moss-covered stone walls and the traces of time's passage paint a vivid picture.
Walking around the complex of Hoa Lu doesn't take up much time. If you're traveling with a tour group, you can explore it in just 1-2 hours. However, I had no reason to rush. Since I had chosen to travel for the scenic beauty and tranquility, there was no need to hastily move on to another tourist spot.
I dedicated the entire afternoon to exploring Hoa Lu Ancient Capital, delving deeper into the architectural wonders and intricate carvings that reflect the reigns of various kings. Life is an endless treasure trove, and with just half a day, I felt humbled by the wealth of knowledge.
Strolling around, I snapped enough photos to fill my future album, a visual reminder of my journey to this place. Occasionally, I sit back, reminisce, and share stories with my descendants. Who knows what the future holds? Sometimes, it's best to follow the path as it unfolds naturally.
The summer sun relentlessly beats down until past 6 p.m. when it finally relents, signaling my farewell to the Ancient Capital as I head back for some rest.
A day of gathering knowledge and admiring temples and pagodas is more than satisfying. After some food, a bit of social media browsing, and chat, it's time to drift into slumber.
Date... Month... Year
Day 2: Exploring the Majestic Tràng An – Bái Đính
The first day drifted by smoothly, but on the second day, I opted for rugged yet discreet attire suitable for temple visits. Learning from my experience at Ba Vàng Pagoda in Quảng Ninh, where wearing a knee-length dress drew immediate reprimand from the nuns, I chose conservative clothing. They insisted, 'When visiting temples, wear modest and tidy attire. No dresses. If wearing pants, they must cover the knees. Absolutely no sleeveless or strapless tops. Otherwise, you risk reprimand and negative karma.' After hearing that, I lost all desire to continue and decided to reschedule my temple visit for another time.
In the morning, I headed to Bái Đính Pagoda, opting to travel by motorbike, the most efficient means for the entire journey.
Perhaps due to unfamiliarity with the route and frequent stops for sightseeing, the 15km journey from the city to Bái Đính took me 45 minutes. Only upon arrival did I grasp the grandeur of this massive temple. It holds several records, including the largest bell, the tallest and heaviest Buddha statue in Vietnam, the largest set of Tam Thế statues, the largest well, and the largest stone statues of Arhats in Vietnam.
Wearing sneakers and casual attire, I moved around swiftly, while watching other women struggle in high heels made me grateful for my choice. Bái Đính complex is vast, spanning 80 hectares, and exploring it fully would take an entire day and leave you exhausted.
The area also boasts stunning mountains and numerous limestone caves. Despite the scorching sun outside, the caves offer a refreshing respite, akin to stepping into another world.
Sharing the experience on social media left my friends in awe. With a mediocre phone incapable of taking decent selfies and a subpar camera, I focused on capturing scenic shots. If I had a companion, I might have reluctantly included my 'single lady' face in the frame, but relying on others to take photos was out of the question. So, I made sure to strategically position myself in the most picturesque spots at each location.
We spent the entire morning at Bái Đính before heading to a restaurant for lunch and then Tràng An in the afternoon. Sitting in a small boat under the scorching sun for hours felt a bit daunting. Yet, gliding along the water's surface, surrounded by majestic natural landscapes and intertwined clouds, made it worthwhile.
As I traveled alone, I couldn't occupy the small boat by myself, so I had to join any group of 3-5 people asking for an extra member. It seems nowadays, everywhere you go, companionship is a must for enjoyment. Looking at myself, always solitary, felt somewhat isolated. The average-sized groups already had their own companions, making it impossible for me to join them.
Finally, I managed to join a boat with two couples, who seemed a bit reluctant to have me tag along. But I didn't mind as long as I could ride the boat along the river and admire the scenery. I mainly conversed with the boatwoman and picked up some interesting stories about Tràng An.
Described as 'Hạ Long Bay on land,' Tràng An was enchanting, especially with the scent of blossoming rice fields in the air. The distant mountains added to the picturesque landscape. In just over a month, the fields would turn golden, laden with ripe rice, offering a completely different experience at Tràng An.
These leisurely trips are what soothe my soul and help me slow down amidst the chaos of life. Doing what I love most brings me joy. As I glided through the caves, I marveled at the various shapes and colorful limestone formations.
As the boat docked, it was already past 5 p.m., and the evening light was fading, bringing relief from the heat. I leisurely made my way back to the rented car. In the evening, I strolled through the streets to the square, observing people enjoying the cool breeze, exercising, and the laughter of children playing. Simple gestures of life can bring such joy and emotional connection.
Date... month... year
Day 3: Astonished by Tam Cốc – Bích Động
When traveling, I always seek out the best and most beautiful places to visit. Tam Cốc – Bích Động, known as the 'Inland Hạ Long Bay,' is quite captivating for tourists. However, upon arrival, it reminded me a lot of Tràng An, as it also involves a boat ride along the river to admire the scenery.
Exploring this destination took me nearly 3 hours on a boat admiring the scenery. Tam Cốc (meaning Three Caves: Hang Cả, Hang Hai, and Hang Ba) is a stunning landscape that you should visit. It is a dark cave submerged in water, about 350m long and 2 km from Tam Cốc pier. I marveled at the stalactites hanging down like shimmering jewels. In front of the cave is the winding Hoàng Long River, and across the river are rice fields running along the mountain slopes. At the end of the Bích Động tour, I could climb up the mountain to visit Bích Động Pagoda, an ancient pagoda nestled on the rocky mountain, exuding Eastern style.
Impressed by Động Tiên - known as the fairyland under the mortal world with layers of stalactites forming shapes of fairies and animals blending harmoniously with nature, trees resembling blooming flowers and fruits.
Additionally, I had the opportunity to visit Thung Nham - Bird Garden located within the Tam Cốc - Bích Động tourist area. Here, I witnessed countless species of birds soaring in the sky and perching on branches.
On the third day, I only spent half a day sightseeing. In the afternoon, I began my journey back to the capital, facing countless worries about daily life and finances, as well as saving money for the next trip.
Date… month… year
Actually, spending 3 days and 2 nights to admire the scenery of Ninh Binh might seem like a waste of time for busy individuals. Only someone like me, who is single and free, can be the master of time, leisurely enjoying the scenery and wandering around.
This trip of mine is not about saving because my motto is to have fun, and fun means feeling happy, not worrying about counting every penny for traveling.
While those who follow the motto of traveling on a budget, seeking cheap prices, and joining tour groups might calculate that they spend less than half the amount I do.
Thinking back, after the trip, seeing so many couples together made me crave for a travel companion. Next time, I'll have to find a bear to accompany me. Can't rely on my steadfast friends, who knows when they'll be available.
At 27, living freely and independently, when will a guy capable of taming a spirited 'Canh Ngọ' girl like me come along?
This trip truly meant a lot to me, and even now, my friends regret not joining me because I went alone.
