Buzz
1. Origin and characteristics of black chưng cake
Chưng cake is not unfamiliar to Vietnamese people. However, besides the traditional square and meat chưng cakes, there are many other types from different regions that you may not know. Among them, black chưng cake is a unique dish of the Tày people in the highlands.
The origin of black chưng cake stems from the mountainous district of Bắc Sơn (Lạng Sơn) and is also known as 'fire cake' because of its black color inside or 'choosing wife' cake because the people of Bắc Sơn use it to choose wives, to be precise, to find beautiful girls who can make beautiful, round cakes to marry.
Unlike square chưng cakes, black chưng cakes on the traditional Tết of the Tày people have a cylindrical or hump-like shape. The most outstanding feature of this type of cake is the black sticky rice. Black chưng cake has a fragrant, chewy, and richer taste compared to traditional chưng cakes even though the filling is still pork belly and green beans. Perhaps what makes the unique flavor of this dish lies in the black-dyed sticky rice.
The Essence of Black Chung Cake
Black chung cake, beyond its role as a traditional Tet delicacy, carries profound significance deeply rooted within the Tày ethnic group, as well as the highland communities in general. It embodies the cherished values of ancestral veneration and gratitude for sustenance, reminding the descendants of the hardships endured by their forebears.
The wrapping technique of black chung cake symbolizes the harmonization of Yin and Yang in the spiritual realm of the Tày people, reflecting their belief in the circular heavens and square earth. This symbolism is manifested in the unique form of the cake: a rounded, slightly bulging body with two neatly folded square ends. The Yin and Yang elements are further represented in the arrangement of dong leaves, which are placed in pairs with their faces touching. Knots are tied in odd numbers like 5 or 9, adhering to the cycle of life—birth, growth, illness, death, and rebirth. When presenting the cake, the Tày people offer it in pairs to balance the Yin and Yang energies, showcasing the dialectical nature of their spirituality.
Even the tying knots hold their own significance. The spiral knots unwind outward from the central point in a straight line, symbolizing the flow of life in a single direction.
The Art of Wrapping Black Chung Cake by the Tày People
Exploring the traditions surrounding Tày chung cake inevitably leads to an appreciation of the unique wrapping technique, particularly the process of dyeing glutinous rice black.
Selecting Fresh and High-Quality Ingredients
Not only in Tày chung cakes but also in any type of chung cake, the choice of glutinous rice is crucial. The rice used for black chung cakes is typically cum rice, harvested directly and then manually processed through drying, husking, and grinding. The dong leaves used to wrap black chung cakes must be from wild dong trees, with large, beautiful, and uniform leaves.
The filling of chung cakes typically consists of pork belly, which is the most flavorful due to its balanced moisture content. Additionally, mung beans and traditional chung cake spices are used as fillings.
It's essential that all ingredients are fresh, preferably homemade, to ensure the highest quality.
The Unique Technique of Dyeing Glutinous Rice Black
Arguably the most unique and essential aspect of black chung cakes is the technique of dyeing glutinous rice black. The black color of Tày chung cakes is often derived from the ashes of xoan muối trees, glutinous rice husks, or black sesame seeds, but primarily from xoan muối trees for its rich black hue.
The process of preparing the canarium salted tree begins with drying and peeling its outer layer. Subsequently, it is burnt until the coals turn red, then removed and immediately soaked in water. After drying, it is placed into a grinder. When mixing the coal powder, water should be added to ensure it adheres firmly to each grain of rice. Mix until the rice grains turn shiny black. Vigorously knead by hand to maintain the black color without loss. After dyeing, the glutinous rice must be sieved clean before packaging.
Handcrafting and cooking with precision
Wrapping black sticky rice cakes differs from the traditional method as it involves entirely handcrafted wrapping without the use of molds, demanding skill and meticulousness. The unique feature of black sticky rice cakes is the bulging middle, akin to a hunchback.
Start by placing 2-3 dong leaves at the bottom, then adding the glutinous rice, green beans, and prepared pork. Wrap tightly by hand and fold the edges of the dong leaves to create the hunchback shape. Ensure the cake is well-balanced before using string to tie both ends. Black sticky rice cakes are relatively compact, weighing only a few ounces and measuring about 5-6cm in length.
Boiling the cakes must be done over a wood fire, ensuring the fire remains large. Boil for approximately 8 hours, then remove and rinse twice before draining. The finished black sticky rice cakes are glossy with a hint of green from the dong leaves. The distinct aroma and delicious flavor from the canarium salted tree charcoal create a uniqueness that delights anyone who savors it.
How to savor black sticky rice cakes
The traditional Tày people's Bánh chưng can be enjoyed by delicately untying the string and slicing the cake into wedges. Alternatively, you can grill it by placing the whole cake on a bed of hot charcoal until the aroma spreads. This method of indulgence is unique and enhances the fragrance of the ingredients.
