Buzz
Located just 3km from the center of Bien Hoa (Dong Nai), Cu Lao Pho is a suburban area with a sparse population. Surprisingly, not everyone knows that this place used to be an important port of Dang Trong, comparable to Ha Tien or My Tho.
A Glorious Era Followed by Swift Decline
Nestled amidst the heart of Dong Nai River, a large island divides the flowing water into two. In the 17th century, the Chinese chose this as their first trading port in Vietnam. Amidst political changes in China, around 3000 Minh Huong people and 50 warships arrived in the South to evade submission to the Qing dynasty. Permitted by Lord Nguyen, half followed Duong Ngan Dich to My Tho, while the rest followed Tran Thuong Xuyen to Bien Hoa to cultivate the wild land. They established streets, ports, attracting ships from China, Japan, Champa for trade.
Pho Island and its spiritual temples
However, visitors can still witness numerous relics of the Chinese community here. Most notable is the Ong Temple, also known as the Thất Phủ Ancient Temple. Initially, the Minh Huong people worshipped General Quan Van Truong, but later changed to Thất Phủ due to contributions from the Chinese from the 7 prefectures of ancient China: Phuc Chau, Chương Chau, Tuyen Chau, Quang Chau, Trieu Chau, Quynh Chau, and Ninh Ba.
The main gate of the temple
A miniature Guangdong in the heart of Bien Hoa
Upon entering the temple gate, even without expertise in history or culture, one can discern its Chinese heritage through its distinctive architectural details. The red-painted walls complement the vibrant golden roofs, adorned with intricately crafted dragon and phoenix motifs.
The temple is thoughtfully designed, allowing ample sunlight while offering numerous shaded areas for cool respite.
At the back of the main gate, overlooking the Ghềnh Bridge.
In addition to temple sightseeing, visitors can extend their gaze far out, admiring the tranquil waters of the Dong Nai River. In the distance lies the Ghềnh Bridge, the first bridge connecting Bien Hoa to Pho Island. Formerly known as the Ghềnh Bridge, in the local dialect of Southern Vietnam. The architecture of the Ghềnh Bridge bears resemblance to the Trường Tiền Bridge in Huế, both designed by the renowned French architect Gustave Eiffel. With an age nearing 120 years, the bridge now accommodates only trains and two-wheeled vehicles.
Ghềnh Bridge (or Ganh Bridge) - a bridge with a lifespan comparable to Long Bien Bridge
Just a few dozen meters downstream from Ghềnh Bridge lie the tomb and shrine of Nguyen Huu Canh. Born and raised in Quang Binh, most of his military exploits were tied to the southern region. He played a key role in establishing Chiêm Thành and expanding Vietnamese territory. He was revered as a celestial being by the people of Đồng Nai. In Quang Binh, An Giang, and even Cambodia, there are dedicated shrines to this founding hero.
The resting place of the founding hero Nguyen Huu Canh.
Furthermore, not far away is Đại Giác Ancient Pagoda, one of the oldest temples in southern Vietnam. It is also marked by the unrequited love story between Princess Ngoc Anh and the Zen master Lieu Dat Thiet Thanh. Legend has it that in 1789, Princess Ngoc Anh sought refuge in the temple to escape the pursuit of the Tay Son army. During her time at the temple, she fell in love with the Zen master. In 1823, the princess begged King Minh Mang to return to the temple to meet the Zen master again. Despite trying to avoid the meeting, the Zen master eventually agreed to extend his hand to the princess. That night, the Zen master self-immolated to protect his monastic purity. Three days later, overwhelmed by grief, the princess consumed poison to reunite with her beloved.
Đại Giác Pagoda, where love begins and ends.
Adjacent to Đại Giác Pagoda, nestled in a small alleyway, is Hoàng An Ancient Temple, a humble temple dating back to 1726. Legend has it that a couple afflicted with leprosy sought refuge in the temple. Before a long pilgrimage, the abbot instructed his disciples to care for the unfortunate couple. However, upon serving them meals, the disciples, repulsed by their appearance, showed disdain. Rejected, the couple leaped into a well to sacrifice themselves. Upon their return, the abbot found only a finger and a toe, severed due to leprosy. Twenty years later, a disabled couple visited the temple and inquired about the old tale. After performing rituals, they miraculously regained their missing body parts. Upon learning of the miracle, the king bestowed honors upon the temple as the couple were revealed to be a prince and a princess. Henceforth, the temple was named Hoàng An (Royal Grace).
Visit Pho Island to hear folkloric tales.
Today, while Pho Island may no longer bear the bustling appearance of its former prosperous trading port, its relics and legendary tales serve as reminders to visitors of its bygone era as a unique urban enclave amidst the picturesque Dong Nai River.
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