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The Phoenix Ancient Town is renowned for its ancient charm and picturesque wooden buildings that have stood for over a thousand years along the banks of the Dai River. Nestled in the western part of Hubei Province, this ancient town is surrounded by mountains and shrouded in countless mystical stories about the Miao ethnic group.
Exploring the Enchantment of China's Phoenix Ancient Town
Setting aside the majestic scenery reminiscent of Avatar in Zhangjiajie, I embarked on a journey to the Phoenix Ancient Town out of sheer curiosity. Not because of its riverside fortress-like appearance (having traveled extensively in China, particularly in the Jiangnan region, one would find that ancient towns often bear a striking resemblance to each other), but to witness if this was indeed a sacred land of ancient remedies. In martial arts novels and period dramas, the land stretching from Hubei to Yunnan is renowned for harboring various tribes and sects adept in poisons. As I descended to admire the sparkling green waters of the river, I recalled the carefree and beautiful demeanor of Lam Fenghuang, the female sect leader of the Five Immortals Sect, rowing a boat and singing while searching for her elder brother Leng Huo.
The Dai River serves as the lifeline of the ancient town, as well as a repository of ancient relics. Initially, Phoenix was just an ancient fortress on one side of the river where people would come to bathe and wash. Later, as the fortress expanded, the opposite side transformed into a bustling street lined with shops and bars. This 'backstage' area turned the stone bridges, relief sculptures, and carved statues on the other side into stunning photography spots. The river became a prominent tourist attraction for the ancient town.
Misty Atmosphere of the Ancient Town
The Phoenix Citadel stands as a living testament to culture and architecture, with a history spanning over thirteen centuries. Preserved along the fortress walls are fossilized relics, pavilions, assembly halls, and temples, showcasing a blend of Han and Miao cultures.
A distinctive feature of this ancient town is its 'phoenix' architectural style, evident in the construction of pavilions, residences, and grand bridges. The Hong Kieu Bridge, a central icon of this style, was built in 1615 as a majestic structure spanning the Da River.
For a closer look at the phoenix-inspired rooftops, visitors can explore the former residence of writer Tham Tung Van and the 'Phoenix Gallery' of artist Hoang Vinh Ngoc. Alongside Hong Kieu, these sites are popular attractions within the ancient town.
In 'The Border Citadel,' Tham Tung Van vividly portrays Phoenix Citadel as a tranquil and fragile watercolor painting. His residence, with four separated pavilions surrounding a courtyard, is a testament to the architectural grandeur of the Qing Dynasty.
Arriving on a crisp autumn day, with leaves turning golden, the four pavilions of Phoenix Citadel appear dreamlike. The misty weather perfectly complements the Citadel's ancient charm. Stepping into the 'Phoenix Gallery' feels like stepping into another era, with large ink paintings and calligraphic scrolls by Hoang Vinh Ngoc adorning the walls.
The art gallery of this renowned ink painter is housed within the Van Tho Palace complex. Situated beneath the Hong Kieu Bridge, Van Tho Palace is meticulously crafted, serving as a cultural hub for the locals. A high-rise stage and a spacious hall opposite cater to esteemed guests, where the rhythmic beats of drums and lusheng melodies echo, reflecting the folk cultures of both the Han and Miao ethnic groups. Intrigued by this fusion, I resolve to visit the Miao village, yearning to hear the lusheng melodies once more.
Entrance to the Miao Camp
In the heart of the ancient town, you'll encounter many Miao women selling souvenir handicrafts or renting traditional costumes for tourists to take photos. This scene reminiscent of Sapa due to the fact that the Miao people here and the H'mong share the same origins. The ancient Chinese once distinguished the H'mong ethnic group into two: those who assimilated with the Chinese and those who remained wild, living isolated in the forests. Initially, I didn't grasp this concept, thinking it was just different terminology in different places. However, after experiencing the journey of climbing mountains, visiting waterfalls, and navigating through vast lakes to reach the Miao camp, I began to understand it more deeply.
From the ancient town, a 30-40-minute bus ride took me to an old village. Here begins the journey of boating across the emerald Chiyou Lake, passing through hills on both sides to the Tiaoyue Cave entrance. In ancient times, this was where the Miao tribe resided. Inside the cave is a sky well with a large waterfall, a scene of great tranquility. It's where young Miao men and women expressed their affection during Spring and Mid-Autumn Festival nights. The dance inviting their lovers is also named after the cave - Tiaoyue, meaning Moonlit Dance, somewhat resembling the H'mong flute dances at the Khau Vai love market. Nowadays, this dance is no longer performed at the Tiaoyue Cave as the Miao camp has migrated deeper into the mountains.
Continuing along narrow mountain paths, barely 60cm wide, clinging to the cliff face, I reached a tunnel entrance. From the bottom of the tunnel, only a faint light could be seen at the top. As I ascended, I heard a chorus of cheerful and melodious voices. At the summit, I was surprised to find it was the singing of young Miao children, their voices resonating with joy and vitality, truly refreshing after the long journey. Later, I learned that this is almost a characteristic of the Miao people. They sing joyfully while boating past waterfalls, climbing mountains into caves, creating a lively atmosphere.
At the mountain summit lies the Miao people's market, while their living quarters are nestled deep within the lake. I continued sailing for about 20 minutes until we reached the destination. Looking up from beneath the lake, scattered wooden houses hide among the cliffs and forests. Despite a few brick houses, the wild charm remains prominent. Here, our guide instructed us not to take photos. As we walked, he pointed out various medicinal herbs for snake bites, scorpion stings... and fearlessly recounted true stories of raising venomous creatures or practicing witchcraft that still linger in Miao villages.
Each of us felt a sense of anticipation until the Miao girls appeared. Their attire was captivating. Earrings dangled, large silver rings almost matching the wine glasses, wrapped in vibrant embroidered dresses swaying in the wind, multicolored belts fluttering in the breeze. They wore silver anklets, their laughter echoing wherever they went, exuding boundless freedom. In the ancient town, similar images can be found, but amidst the mountain forests, Miao girls become even more radiant and dazzling. It's perhaps the original beauty, both untamed and proud like a phoenix preparing to soar into the sky.
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MytourJune 8, 2017
