Diving into the Chay River and Tối Cave

Arriving in Dong Hoi, Quang Binh, during those sunny Central Vietnam days, our first impression was the city's excessive sunlight. Originally planning to depart at 7 a.m., we set off for Phong Nha – Ke Bang earlier than expected due to everyone's reluctance to travel under the scorching sun.

Exploring Quang Binh: Surrendering to the Allure of the Chay River and Tối Cave

Quang Binh captivates with its stunning caves nestled within the Phong Nha – Ke Bang UNESCO World Heritage Site. This time, our primary destination was the Chay River and Tối Cave in Bo Trach, Quang Binh, also part of this natural heritage site.

Being the one to propose visiting the Chay River and Tối Cave, although never having been there before, merely hearing about it being a relatively new and intriguing destination for adventure seekers, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation. Unsure if I had chosen the right place to excite our diverse age group, I preemptively offered a reassuring statement: 'Even if it turns out to be a gamble, it's worth the experience.'

Absolutely worth it! The picturesque scenery of blue skies, azure waters, and towering mountains captivated everyone from the very beginning. The eco-tourism area of the Chay River – Tối Cave was impeccably managed, orderly, with enthusiastic staff guiding visitors in their leisure activities. The lively yet orderly atmosphere on the Chay River further endeared me to the whole group.

Crystal Clear Waters of the Chay River

The Chay River's water is so clear that I have never seen any river with such clarity before; everything above its surface is vividly reflected, as if in a mirror.

Local residents revealed that like other rivers within the Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park, the Chay River originates from within caves. The Chay River has two tributaries that merge: one springs from the majestic Truong Son Range but its exact source is yet to be determined, emerging near the Mooc Spring (about 3km from Tối Cave); the other flows out from Tối Cave. The convergence of these two streams forms a large river, approximately 10km long, believed to be the deepest in Phong Nha – Ke Bang, with an average depth of 5 – 7m, but reaching depths of around 20m.

According to local inhabitants, the Chay River offers unique charms regardless of the time of year. From February to August, the weather is typically sunny, and the river maintains its pristine clarity. However, from September to October, heavy rains cause the river to become turbid due to sediment and silt washed into it. From December to January, the weather turns cold.

To truly appreciate the wonders of the Chay River, one must venture into Tối Cave. Among the unique caves within the Phong Nha – Ke Bang UNESCO World Heritage Site, Tối Cave was first explored and documented in 1990 by the British Cave Research Association. Initially measured at approximately 5.5km in length, a recent exploration conducted by the Phong Nha – Ke Bang Tourism Center in April 2015 (the first survey led by Vietnamese researchers) revealed Tối Cave to be nearly 6km long, with an average height of 70 – 90m and a width of 25 – 35m.

Tran Tai, a staff member of the Phong Nha – Ke Bang Tourism Center who participated in the cave surveys, considers Tối Cave to be a stunning cavern, rich in natural and biological diversity. As one delves deeper, the level of difficulty and danger increases, but so does the uniqueness of the cave. Tối Cave has two entrances: the front entrance is at the Tram Kiem Lam Trong Mong Station, directly by the Chay River, while the other entrance is located in the center of the Survival Valley – also known as the Dive Water Cave, as the water disappears into the cave.

After a few minutes of learning about the terrain to assess our strength for the adventurous activities on the Chay River and in Tối Cave, two individuals over 50 in the group refused to be outdone by the four young friends aged 14 – 20. They promptly donned life jackets and safety gear, ascended the observation tower to zip-line 400m across the sky to the entrance of Tối Cave. Despite being equipped with specialized safety gear, the guides continually reminded those with a weak heart to carefully consider before attempting this activity. It was nerve-wracking, but the view from above, seeing the azure Chay River winding amidst lush green mountains and rocky banks, was simply breathtaking.

Tối Cave, untouched and enveloped in darkness, devoid of any guiding lights, only fueled everyone's curiosity and excitement. Each person's headlamp served as their guide. After venturing about a hundred meters into the cave, our feet sank into mud. The mud inside Tối Cave evoked indescribable sensations. While mud baths are common, none compare to bathing in the mud within Tối Cave, a unique experience perhaps exclusive to Quang Binh. The mud was refreshingly cool, devoid of any unpleasant odor, and standing in the mud felt like floating in weightlessness, as one's feet didn't sink, leaving everyone feeling suspended, as if walking on air. For those eager to explore deeper into Tối Cave, we left the mud behind and waded through the icy cold stream.

More enjoyable than hours spent in Tối Cave, emerging from the cave led to another kind of fun. Everyone boarded kayaks and raced out onto the Chay River, where various lively water games awaited. The young ones, craving more excitement, swung on the zip-line before releasing into the river with a splash. Crossing the rope bridge over the river proved to be a thrilling physical challenge; both foreign tourists and young Vietnamese were eager to attempt it, but few succeeded. Each person wagered that if anyone could conquer all the challenging rope bridges, large and small, horizontal and vertical, they would win a $100 prize. Yet, by the end of the afternoon, no one claimed the reward.

The Chay River and Tối Cave drained the energy of everyone. Despite the group of nine having feasted on a hearty meal of sticky rice with gac fruit, noodles, rice balls, rice paper, shredded boiled chicken, grilled pork, fried eggs, assorted vegetables, by five in the evening, our stomachs were empty from the exhilarating river activities.

The Phong Nha – Ke Bang Tourism Center sells tickets for the Chay River – Tối Cave tour (with insurance). Visitors are provided with life jackets and equipment for zip-lining from the animal observation tower to Tối Cave, exploring Tối Cave (not suitable for children under 1.4m to zip-line), kayaking, zip-lining into the river, and playing water games. On cold days, after exploring Tối Cave, visitors are treated to a warm bonfire and a complimentary glass of wine.

By Nguyet Hong/Doanhnhansaigon

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References: Travel guide from Mytour