Clam rice is not just rice with clams. Just as rice with chicken is called chicken rice, and rice with grilled ribs and shredded pork skin is known as broken rice with grilled ribs and shredded pork skin. In fact, clam rice is much simpler compared to premium rice dishes like beef or chicken rice, as its basic ingredients are inexpensive, using leftover cold rice and sautéed clams in clam broth.
However, the authentic nature of this classic clam rice is anything but simple. It undergoes a meticulous and intricate preparation process. To make the perfect clam rice, the clams must be sourced from Hen Islet, a fertile alluvial island on the Perfume River, located in Con Village, Vi Da Ward.
The Perfume River, as it flows through Hen Islet, is typically clear, low in sediment, and alkaline. The riverbed beneath the island is covered with deep mud, ideal for the growth of clams. Thanks to favorable hydrological conditions, the clams on Hen Islet are so delicious that they are considered a royal delicacy.
Understandably, Hen Islet is the birthplace of dishes prepared with clams, among which clam rice stands out. The clams are harvested at dawn, cleaned of mud, and then transported to clam stoves. Here, the clams are soaked in rice water to remove any impurities from their stomachs. After cleaning, the clams are boiled to obtain two crucial ingredients: the meat (referred to as clam meat by locals) and clam broth.
At this point, the process of making clam rice begins. The unique feature of this dish is the use of leftover cold rice, with each rice grain separated. This characteristic stems from the frugal nature and life philosophy of the people of Hue: nothing should go to waste. Moreover, cold rice provides the foundation for the crispiness and sweetness of other ingredients.
Once the rice is ready, the plump clam meat is quickly sautéed with rice vermicelli (not using transparent vermicelli), dried bamboo shoots torn into small pieces, and thinly sliced pork belly. The clam broth is added to a hot pot, along with a few slices of ginger and a touch of seasoning for the perfect flavor. The preparation of accessories for the clam rice bowl is then carried out.
Known as an accessory, but this element has more charm than rice and mussels. Writer Hoang Phu Ngoc Tuong, a true Hue local, has listed over 10 ingredients just for the sake of enhancing the visual appeal of the mussel rice. From chili paste, chopped chili in fish sauce, shrimp paste, crushed rice paper, roasted salt, pounded peanut through lard or oil, toasted sesame seeds, crispy pork skin (pork floss).
Another equally important part is raw vegetables to eat with mussel rice. Raw vegetables here include banana stems, thinly sliced banana flowers like punctuation marks, banana flowers, basil, pineapple, and sliced star fruit. The bitter, sour, spicy, and fresh flavors of raw vegetables enhance the richness of the mussel rice bowl. All of these ingredients make up more than ten in total, each placed in a small separate dish.
Once prepared, the mussel rice seller takes a clean bowl, scoops cold rice into it, then ladles the sautéed mussels on top of the rice, followed by arranging other ingredients such as rice paper, pork floss, crushed peanuts, sesame seeds, and lard on top and drizzling with shrimp paste. Next is the layer of vegetables including banana flowers, basil, pineapple, star fruit, and sautéed chili.
Depending on the eatery or the customer's request, the seller will either pour hot savory mussel broth over the bowl of mussel rice or serve it separately in another bowl. When eating, one can either mix the bowl of mussel rice that has been poured with broth to enjoy or take each bite while savoring spoonfuls of rich, sweet, and flavorful mussel broth. Somehow, the mussel rice bowl is miraculously divine, balancing salty, sweet, spicy, sour, cool, hot, rich, crispy, and fresh.
Writer Hoang Phu Ngoc Tuong once wrote: “The lingering taste in a person's life from a mussel rice bowl is the aroma of fragrant shrimp paste that rises to the mind, and the spicy taste that brings tears to the eyes. Those accustomed to mussel rice are still not satisfied with the inherent spiciness; they demand a fresh chili to bite into and exclaim with delight! Tears well up, sweat drips into the bowl, yet it collapses with sighs, exclaiming 'delicious, delicious!'; even when far away, the memory makes one crave to the point of desperation, flying back to Hue just to enjoy a mussel rice bowl is worth it, oh, dear Hue!”.
The inherent spirit of “eating spicy, speaking heavy” from the people of Hue can now be found in those compassionate mussel rice bowls. That mussel rice on Hen Islet is a yin-yang five-element painting that makes eating in the summer feel like sweating under the hot sun and eating in the winter makes people feel as hot as in Hoa Diem Son. Either way, it's blissful, enjoyable to the utmost.
So, when you visit Hue, don't hesitate to explore Hen Islet in the 'Village of Vida.' Take a stroll along the shell-covered paths, listen to the rustling sound of clamshells beneath the Perfume River, hear the rhythmic pounding of clams before they are put into the clam oven. Enjoy biting into the tongue-twisting spiciness, savor the sweet pieces that awaken your senses, and relish the harmonious blend of bitter, spicy, salty, and sweet in a bowl of Hen Islet mussel rice, the pride of the Nerve Capital.
Source: Parsley/Ngoi Sao
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Reference: Mytour Travel Guide
MytourMay 19, 2017