A few years back, Northerners residing in Ho Chi Minh City longing for bún đậu mắm tôm had only one option – areas near Tan Son Nhat Airport, almost ten kilometers from the city center. Nowadays, Saigon is dotted with bún đậu mắm tôm stalls.
What makes them stand out is that every single establishment is jam-packed with customers, ranging from the elderly to the young, men and women, office workers, and common laborers – all enchanted by this dish. Just in District 1 alone, the city center, or areas like Hong Ha Street and Tan Binh, boast over a dozen stalls, all with a similar presentation, carrying the strong traditional Northern vibe.

Explore the special allure of bún đậu mắm tôm while touring Saigon
Hanoians traveling to Saigon in substantial numbers initially led to the opening of many bún đậu stalls, catering to the nostalgia of Northerners. However, this wholesome and rustic dish gradually won over Southern residents. Today, bún đậu has become a favorite for many in the city, known for its simplicity, bold flavor, and the rich aroma of shrimp paste. The down-to-earth taste, after a few instances of following relatives from the countryside to the city, captivated urbanites and swiftly gained popularity in the two major cities at the opposite ends of the country. Bún đậu, with its refreshing, light, and stomach-friendly taste, appeals to a wide audience. A plate of bún đậu, just at first sight, is visually delightful – fresh noodles, golden and plump tofu, dipped in the unforgettable flavor of shrimp paste, all mixed together to create a distinct and superb taste.

Northerners are renowned for their sophisticated taste, and the seemingly straightforward dish of bún đậu also demands finesse. The tofu must be the creamy and pure đậu mơ, the white bean with a rapid and golden fry while ensuring a soft and fatty interior. Bringing each mold of đậu mơ from the North to the South is challenging, so Saigon tofu artisans have invested considerable time and effort in learning the secrets of making tofu from the birthplace of bún đậu mắm tôm. They blend this knowledge with the culinary experience of the sunny Southern region, crafting tofu that is both familiar and intriguing, adding excitement for Saigon residents who adore bún đậu. Throughout the tofu-making process, every step must be swift and precise, as any oversight affects the quality of the tofu. The finished product is expertly fried, achieving a crispy exterior while remaining tender and fragrant inside. Just a touch to the lips, and it melts in the mouth.
An equally crucial step is the preparation of shrimp paste. As this is a Northern specialty, Southern bún đậu mắm tôm establishments source ingredients from the North, importing them from regions like Thanh Hoa, Nam Dinh, and Hanoi. Each eatery has its secret method for crafting shrimp paste, ensuring the pink hue is retained. When mixed with lime, it gracefully dispels the purple tint. The shrimp paste blend requires a touch of sugar, lime, chili, and notably, a splash of fried tofu oil, creating a uniquely exquisite flavor for the dipping sauce.

Bún đậu, paired with húng láng and kinh giới, offers a delightful, earthy aroma that harmonizes with the cold essence of shrimp paste. Every layer of society can fall in love with bún đậu mắm tôm – appreciated by the common people for its delectable scent and affordability, and the elite cannot resist the unique flavor absent in high-end restaurants.
When bún đậu mắm tôm migrated to Saigon, it did not lack innovation. Southerners may accompany it with various greens like húng láng, coriander... The taste of shrimp paste in Saigon is sweeter than in Hanoi, and the crispy rice cakes are greener and richer in flavor.
Bún đậu can serve as a delightful dish or a hearty meal, offering not just a scenic treat but also nutritional benefits. Tofu provides a vegetable protein source, raw vegetables offer antioxidants, safeguard the heart, and prevent cancer; lime, garlic, and chili also have specific health functions.
In the hustle and bustle of busy life, people tend to seek the simple pleasures. Bún đậu mắm tôm, originally a humble gift from the Northern land, has now become incredibly popular among Southern residents.
A selection of delicious bún đậu mắm tôm stalls in Saigon
Explore Saigon and savor some delicious fermented shrimp paste vermicelli at the spots below.
1. Homemade Vermicelli: One of the first vermicelli spots in Saigon, renowned for its Northern-style taste. Located near Tan Son Nhat airport, it boasts a beautiful and stylish ambiance. Here, you might even bump into several celebrities.


Address: 6 Hong Ha, Ward 2, Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City.
2. Aunt Khan's Vermicelli: This spot, owned by model Trang Tran, attracts a lot of attention. Besides vermicelli, the menu also features various Northern dishes. Prices may be on the higher side, but portions are generous and fulfilling.

Address: 102/26 Cong Quynh, Ward Pham Ngu Lao, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
3. Kim Lien Vermicelli: This establishment captivates diners with its elegant yet rustic ambiance, offering delicious and clean vermicelli. The menu also includes tempting desserts and some highly-rated dishes such as crab soup with spinach, and sautéed glass noodles.


Address: 220 Nguyen Cong Tru, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
4. Tiny Alley Vermicelli: A renowned vermicelli spot located in a small alley in the heart of District 1. The vermicelli here is delicious, though the shrimp paste is a bit salty; sweet-tooths can add some sugar.


Address: 156C Pasteur, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.
5. Lâm Bo Vermicelli: In addition to beautifully presented and high-quality vermicelli, the restaurant scores points for its clean, cool space that carries a familiar touch for those from Hanoi.

Address: 146 Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Ward 8, Phu Nhuan District, Ho Chi Minh City.
As per Depplus
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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour
MytourSeptember 21, 2014