Buzz
Winter, amidst the final storms of the season approaching, I hurriedly stowed my camera and headed to Mong Cai, Quang Ninh. The journey of milestones at sea is calling.
Having stood at the northernmost point of Sa Vi, gazing towards the East Sea, where the Bac Luan River meets the ocean, looking towards the 1377 – 1378 markers, the last markers on the Vietnam-China border, delicately placed amidst vast waters… Amidst countless dreams, patrolling the border in Binh Lieu, Quang Ninh, infiltrates deep into the heart, compelling me to set forth every passing day.
Marker 1377 is an odd-numbered marker managed by China, while marker 1378 is an even-numbered marker under the management of Vietnam. Given their unique positions at sea and extreme sensitivity, approaching these markers is by no means an easy feat.
Even many travelers to Tra Co primeval forest have never considered it.
A challenging journey
Answering my query, Mr. Ho Van Tong – the station chief of Trang Vy Observatory, Tra Co Border Guard Station – stated that, in principle, citizens are allowed to visit milestone 1378 when necessary. However, there are specific regulations in the border area that everyone must adhere to in order to ensure security.
Due to geographical differences, the underwater milestone and the milestone on the shore are quite distinct, especially milestone 1378. To officially visit the milestone, citizens are required to obtain a permit from the Border Command of Quang Ninh Province. The local border post is responsible for managing the milestone and arranging the schedule, along with assigning officers to accompany the visitors.
Our group attempting to conquer my 1378 consisted of only 2 individuals that day. After coordinating with the boatman, we walked across the sandy beach to the Trang Vy embankment. In the distance, milestones 1377 and 1378 beckoned.
As milestone 1377 belongs to China, based on the travel laws between the two countries in the border region, we would have the opportunity to get closer for a 'glimpse' but not climb the milestone like 1378.
1378 – Where the river meets the sea
In less than half an hour by motorboat, we arrived at the legendary milestone. The sturdy, round milestone was deeply embedded in the ground, painted with 3 stripes in black, yellow, and red on a white background. Not far away was milestone 1377, distinguishable from 1378 by the absence of black paint.
Neo the boat under the milestone, both cautiously climbed the uneven steps without handrails, ascending to the panoramic observatory. Breathless with excitement, and strangely delighted.
At the pinnacle of the pillar is a granite milestone, following the pattern of other milestones on the mainland, with two faces, each numbered and inscribed in the national language, painted in red.
Taking photos, checking in, the dream of 1378 came unexpectedly and complete. I pinched myself to ensure this moment wasn't a dream.
Getting off the boat, the boatman pointed towards the neighboring water, saying that every day he takes his people across that bay to harvest clams, some as big as a hand, weighing up to half a kilogram. If you want to explore the life of Trang Vy's people, stay here tonight, he offered.
With a gentle laugh, a dark face, and weathered lines etched by sun and wind, the boatman, perhaps incompletely grasping the concept, humorously claimed to be a 'living legend' for the locals.
We returned to the shore, leaving behind the two solitary milestones in the sea, gradually receding.
Farewell, 1378. Stay amidst the vast sea, resilient and indifferent, welcoming generations of 'milestone enthusiasts' to come.
Will there be countless souls drawn to awaken the national pride deep within their hearts, feeling a surge of emotion as they touch the sacred milestone of the Fatherland? The sole milestone planted where the river merges with the sea, on Dau Got Island, Mong Cai, Quang Ninh.
Serenity of Mang Islet
After sharing a lunch with the boatman, we rode back to Sa Vy, symbolically considered the starting point of the letter 'S' in Vietnam.
Not long ago, I stood on the boat, waving at the towering and majestic milestone 1378 with pride. Now, it appears as a tiny dot alone in the vast ocean.
We got stuck in the sand on the way to Mang Islet, taking considerable time and effort to reach the place known in folklore as the romantic spot for our ancestors – where coming and going meant having a 'bump' (meaning being 'pregnant').
The boatman chuckled, saying that in the old days, this place was secluded, covered with wild forests along the beach. But now, even with a sweeping gaze, the end of Tra Co Beach is nowhere in sight. With a sly smile, he added that perhaps I wouldn't believe it...
I observed the Trang Vy locals diligently harvesting clams on the islet, each equipped with a pickaxe or a small basket. The tools were simple – finding large clams, breaking their tough shells, and separating the meat to take home.
Their daily diligence rewarded them with a hearty soup, and some even took the surplus to sell at the market.
Gentle waves lapped at the sandy shore, the sun casting a gentle glow on the rocky area where the clams lay.
It's been a while since there's been such a peaceful evening in the border region...
Source: Tuoitre.vn
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Reference: Travel Guide by Mytour
MytourJanuary 15, 2016
