Buzz
After over five hours departing from Bangkok (Thailand) and a layover in Kolkata (India), the Boeing aircraft operated by Druk Air began its descent, lowering altitude, preparing to land at Paro International Airport.
The refreshing breeze of Bhutan.
Bhutan – the only country in the world to advocate the concept of 'Gross National Happiness' (GNH) instead of 'Gross National Product' (GNP) and boasting the highest happiness index in Asia, proudly rivaling Switzerland – came into view beneath the wings of our flight.
Every passing moment. The towering mountains amidst the clouds, standing amidst the thickets of snow-covered ranges, slowly unveiling the grandeur and mystical beauty of the Himalayas.
Over ten hours and thirty minutes in the morning. The sun has risen high. We stepped out of the airplane's staircase into the crisp air. The gentle winds felt like delicate silk ribbons, softly brushing against us, causing each of us to shiver slightly. Camady, the guide from the Bhutan National Tourism Company, immaculately dressed in his Gho (national attire), raised both hands and waved enthusiastically. His voice was faintly amusing: 'Hello Vietnam. It's chilly, isn't it? That's the first gift from the land of Bhutan.'
The 24-seater vehicle, a common type of passenger transport in Bhutan, began its journey, departing from Paro city towards Thimphu, the proud capital with the legend of Thunder Dragon. We started pondering over Camady's words. It seemed to carry a hint of humor, depth, and authenticity. Perhaps, that's how Bhutanese express their hearts. For the cold we were experiencing was deliberately brought by the winds from the perpetually snow-clad peaks that always surround Paro. That's the first gift from the land of Bhutan. How could we not sincerely express our gratitude?
Only the mountains, the streams, and the Dzongs (monasteries, places of meditation for monks) stand tall; everything else in Bhutan is just right.
The eyes of happiness.
No ostentation, no clamor, unlike the deeply Buddhist Himalayan cultural background. The 'just right' can be observed the moment one steps off the plane in the form of houses. From Paro to Thimphu and other cities, towns across the country, there are no buildings taller than eight stories. They all share the same architectural style, patterns, and even the opaque white paint. The residences of the Royal Family within the royal compound and those of government officials are not vastly different from those of the common people. That's the decree of the Monarchy.
Even now in the capital Thimphu (not to mention other cities), there are still no traffic signal lights. None, but according to Camady, there has been no traffic jam anywhere. He said: 'Partly due to the relatively low vehicle density, but more importantly, it's the high level of traffic law compliance by the people. We would be very ashamed if we were to speed or veer off our lanes.'
And, even now, this country still doesn't have social ills like prostitution, gambling, theft, murder. Bhutanese don't smoke tobacco, don't use plastic bags, don't deforest, and don't fish in rivers or streams, pluck flowers in public places.
'In Bhutan, every house has a door, but hardly any are locked.' At least twice did Camady utter those words to us.
Someone exaggerated quite beautifully by suggesting that as the Boeing aircraft maneuvered through the narrow gap between two mountain walls, if one reached out through the window, train passengers could pluck a few wildflowers. As for me, twice in one morning while standing in front of the lobby of a hotel on this side of the Paro river, I nearly touched the wing of the Boeing aircraft as it prepared to depart from the runway adjacent to the riverbank on the other side.
Bhutan is a country that could be described as narrow, formed by valleys between towering mountains. The country has only one international airport, and even at that airport, there is only one runway. The 'door' to the airport lies between two treacherous mountain walls. Apart from Bhutan's eight-pilot 'special' flying team, no pilot in the world 'dares to test their skills' between two mountain walls to land at Paro.
A very interesting surprise was that on our first evening in the capital Thimphu, we were invited for a cup of hot tea in a room filled with the scent of incense. The story we heard that day was about the creation of the two mountain walls that earned Paro the title of 'the world's most spectacular airport' as voted by the International Air Transport Association, mentioned in legends – 'It is the gift of an infinite past from a Guru Rinpoche to Bhutan.'
However, it wasn't until the country was unified and ruled by the Wangchuck Dynasties that it truly became the two gates for flights to descend into the gateway city of Paro.
Don't be surprised, nor be displeased if you come to the Land of the Thunder Dragon and hear such stories. Because in Bhutan, it seems every mountain range, every stream, every river bend, and every valley has a very beautiful story to tell.
'We don't fish in rivers and streams, nor do we eat their flesh because, atop the heads of most Omnis, the word 'Om' is inscribed' (Omnis are a common type of fish in Bhutan, similar to carp in Vietnam).
I wonder if the term 'Omni' here originates from the two words 'Om Mani' in the mantra of Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara. But honestly, I tried to look for a long time at the robust Omni fish, frolicking under the bridge spanning Punakha Dzong, or the Great Happiness Palace, where the two major rivers Phochu and Mochu converge (Father and Mother rivers), but still couldn't find any 'Om' inscriptions.
Throughout the length of the highway from Thimphu to Punakha, Trongsa, Bumthang, Wangduephodrang… especially the stretch from the other side of Dochu La pass at an altitude of nearly 3,100 meters, along the eastern foothills of the Himalayas, you're likely to come across herds of Zak yaks grazing or resting on terraced golden fields, resembling notes on a gigantic musical staff, sloping along the contours of the high mountains.
Zak yaks are a breed that could be called giants, almost twice the size of the largest yaks we commonly see. Descending from high mountains, Zak seeks shelter from the cold and forage in the valleys. Not being attacked, but rather protected by humans, providing sustenance... and soon after, both sides become 'friends'. Twice a year, Zak donates a portion of its warm fur to humans. Zak wool is a unique and highly valued export product of Bhutan.
'I don't attack, kill anyone, even with Zak, a species of wild animal, which is inherently fierce, why bother' – The deeply ingrained Buddhist philosophy has imbued a sense of authenticity, naturalness, to the extent of innocence in every Bhutanese.
It will probably be a long time before we can forget the eyes and smiles reflecting the surprise of the apple seller at the rest stop atop Dochu La pass. It happened when, after asking for the price, our companion handed her a banknote of greater value than the price of the bag of apples.
From behind the counter, the apple seller approached, pointing to the cash box in front, asking customers to put their bills in and take the change themselves. The customer shook their head. The girl widened her eyes, smiled, stepped forward to give the change to the customer, then smiled again while her eyes couldn't hide the innocence.
Eyes and smiles. The 'perfect pair' of the apple seller atop Dochu La pass that slightly chilly day was, I must say, quite beautiful. Up until now, perhaps that was the second gift, after the chilly breeze in Paro, that we received just under three days into our journey to the land considered a Shangri-La, the last remaining paradise in the Himalayas. A country still not wealthy.
'Not just the apple seller on Dochu La, most of our Bhutanese people are like that. If you don't take what's not yours, you won't lose anything. That's for sure.' According to Camady, he learned that lesson from the years he just started learning to read and write.
The royal oath.
In Bhutan, there is a phrase that many have memorized, that is the oath of King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck. On November 6, 2008, he said immediately after receiving the ceremonial scarf and the seal of his father King Jigme Singye Wangchuck (who introduced the concept of 'Gross National Happiness' upon ascending the throne in 1972) – 'I will not rule as a king. I will protect the people like a father, care for them like siblings, and serve them like a child.'
And very few are unaware of the fact that their king embarked on a nearly month-long 'journey of enlightenment' shortly after ascending the throne. On foot primarily, he visited the farthest villages from Thimphu to understand the lives of each citizen.
'The King's journey is how He wants to assure His people that He will fulfill the promises made to his father.' Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck spent nearly a decade studying at a prestigious university in the UK. He is the youngest reigning monarch in the world today.
There could be no greater happiness than when all citizens, from the capital to the remote mountain villages, live in joy and without worries. Being poor but never hungry, illnesses and diseases are treated and cared for free of charge, children go to school without having to spend money, even for buying books.
And, surely, there is no image in the world today that describes 'the beauty of happiness for all' like the image every weekend afternoon, the Queen and the King, each on a bicycle, circling a street in Thimphu without the need for guards or attendants.
There was a very interesting coincidence when we visited Kurjey Lhakhang Monastery in Bumthang, where Guru Rinpoche, one of the first masters to bring Buddhism to Bhutan, once stopped, we met two girls from Hanoi – Tu and Hue.
We learned that the two girls had 'wandered' online, found the address, bought plane tickets, and handled immigration procedures 'just to witness the happiness of the land and people of Bhutan.' I asked, 'Where have you been?' – 'Many places.' 'Have you met many Bhutanese friends?' – 'Can't remember.' 'So, have you seen happiness?' – 'Yes.' 'Where?' – 'In their eyes.'
The unplanned exchange between us wasn't easy to end there, but now, sitting back and recalling, I'll just write up to that point. Because what we encountered when exploring and contemplating happiness in Bhutan, partly, is vividly apparent in those eyes. Eyes that couldn't conceal the utmost innocence. And if asked, how do the majority of people in a not-so-wealthy country have those eyes? The answer may lie partly in the oath upon ascending the throne of King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck.
As reported by Saigon Business Online
***
Reference: Mytour Travel Guide
MytourJune 18, 2014
