Buzz
Bearing a name as exquisite and gentle as a mountain girl - Thu Cuc quietly, modestly charms us.
Exploring the Northwestern Region to Visit the 'Sleeping Princess' Thu Cuc
The pristine natural landscapes, wonders, and the rich cultural heritage of the indigenous people have turned Thu Cuc into a sleeping princess in the forest with vast tourism potential.
Modest yet captivating
Located 130km from Hanoi, Thu Cuc is a commune in the highland district of Tan Son, Phu Tho province, situated at the intersection of National Highway 32 to Yen Bai and 32B to Son La. Consequently, numerous tourist groups and adventurers exploring the Northwest have passed through here.
They paused by the roadside to rest, unaware of the enchanting scenery they had missed. We were no different, having skipped it several times, deciding to explore Thu Cuc on a whim.
From the junction - a familiar stop for backpackers, we embarked on a journey to explore Soi village, U village. Along the road, glimpses of simple palm-thatched houses of the Muong people.
As we ventured further, the landscape became increasingly rugged, tranquil with lush green rice fields lining the flowing Bua river.
The ancient towering trees cast cool shadows on the green grass, serving as a resting place to escape the sun for local farmers. Children playing in the fields by the road added to the poetic scene.
U village, one of the most remote in the Thu Cuc area, immediately surprised us with an interesting sight: a wooden dam blocking the Bua river.
The Muong people in U village rely primarily on wet rice cultivation, so the water resource for farming is highly valued by the community. As early as the 1960s, the U village community collectively built a dam across the Bua river to create a water reservoir for agriculture.
From this emerged Dam U - a unique wooden dam like no other. Constructed by locals using hardwood, bamboo, palm leaves, and clay. Firstly, a layer of wood is laid horizontally across the river, then another layer vertically on top, repeating until the dam reaches about 5 meters high.
Next, the locals weave a long bamboo mat to cover the inner face of the dam, then lay a layer of palm leaves on top of the bamboo mat, and finally a layer of clay on top of the palm leaves.
Perhaps this is the most unique and handmade way of building dams by the Muong people, not only in the Thu Cuc area but also in the Northwest region of our country.
Although crafted intricately, the lifespan of the dam is only about a year. Those interested in witnessing the process of making wooden dams here should visit Ban U, Thu Cuc, at the beginning of December each year.
Above the striking wooden dam is a pristine lake, marking the achievement of diverting water from the Bua river for the Muong locals. The Bua river section near Dam U meanders with large and small rocks resembling a maze. The riverbanks feature rugged landscapes with old-growth forests and lush vegetation.
Many native Muong people still cross the river using rafts made from bamboo logs. We encountered young Muong men and women cutting bamboo, weaving mats in the forest, then tying them together to float down the river. They ride on the bamboo raft, navigating through the water, maneuvering through the rocks with a pole in hand, exuding a sense of adventure and daring.
During the scorching summer days, the Muong people in Thu Cuc and neighboring areas often seek the cool and refreshing air by Dam U and spots along the Bua river.
The Legend of Princess Cuc
We were fortunate to extend our stay at a local household for an extra night. It's rare for the Muong village to accommodate overnight travelers from afar, so everyone greeted us warmly and enthusiastically.
We had the pleasure of savoring some unforgettable local delicacies such as pickled arrowroot leaves, steamed mountain snails, and seasoned grilled fish at the home of a friendly Muong resident.
During the heartwarming meal, our host shared: 'In our Muong land, we have a legend associated with a girl named Cuc. Princess Cuc, since ancient times, has been closely connected to the Muong people through her touching story of searching for new rice seeds.'
Long ago, the Muong Bi and Muong Vang people from Hoa Binh migrated across the Bua river, reaching the upper source to discover the area of Thu Cuc as it is today. Witnessing the fertile green land and serene scenery, they decided to settle down, build houses, establish villages, and make a living.
Although the village was established, the lives of the Muong people were very difficult due to prolonged drought, with no crops or livestock surviving. At that time, there was a skilled, beautiful, and intelligent young woman in the village whom everyone called Cuc.
Seeing the year-round poverty of her fellow villagers, Cuc volunteered to embark on a journey across icy streams and through forests to search for a new strain of rice for the village.
Despite many hardships and dangers, Cuc finally found the new strain of rice for the villagers. However, as she returned near the edge of the forest in her Muong homeland, she was attacked by wild beasts, and her body was dragged away, leaving only the precious bundle of rice on the ground. From Cuc's bundle of rice, the fields of the Muong land flourished once again, abundant with grains.
In remembrance of the person who brought the new strain of rice to the village, the Muong people together erected a shrine in honor of Cuc at the spot where the precious bundle of rice was found. Every year, the villagers hold a ceremony to escort the rice spirit from this sacred shrine back to the village.
During the rice escorting ceremonies, the people and shamans come to the shrine of Cuc to perform rituals to request the rice spirit, and then everyone goes down to the fields together to sow the seeds. And from that moment, this land also bears the name Thu Cuc – the beautiful, courageous daughter of the Muong land.
Thu Cuc serves as a transit point for various routes of Northwest tourism, so tourists wishing to stay overnight in Thu Cuc can easily find accommodation. You can rent budget rooms for 150,000 - 200,000 VND/night at guesthouses in the central area of the commune. Or spend the night in Ban U, Ban Soi, Ban Mo, Ban Tang... to experience the authentic local life.
In addition to familiar dishes such as steamed snails, fish salad, seasoned fish grilled in banana leaves, and pickled arrowhead leaves, tourists can ask the Muong people in the villages to make a special dish of moss mixed with spices wrapped in banana leaves, or roasted fern leaves on hot charcoal. Enjoying this dish is a unique experience, unforgettable.
By Nguyen Duy – Hai Duong/Tuoi Tre
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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour
MytourSeptember 1, 2017
