Embarking on a journey to Xuân La village to explore the art of crafting traditional edible figurines

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Some noteworthy points

Summary

Whether you are a Hanoi resident or a visitor, chances are you have encountered the gentle elderly individuals skillfully shaping soft materials into delightful figures, creating a nostalgic connection to the childhood of everyone. Tò he, a once-familiar toy of yesteryears, motivated me to seek its roots—the Xuân La village (Phượng Dục commune, Phú Xuyên district, Hanoi)

The vividly colored tò he creations are truly captivating.

Born and raised in Hanoi, tò he has been etched into my mind since the days of preschool, all the way through the end of secondary school. During those days, stepping out of the school gate meant encountering kind elderly individuals on old bicycles, carrying a small box with perforations on the surface. On it, there were figurines of dragons, roses, Sun Wukong, Son Goku, or Doraemon, made from a soft and fragrant material. As a child, drawn to colors, I would occasionally persuade my parents to buy me one, bringing it home to decorate every corner.

Craftsmen create enchanting tò he sculptures.

Tò he, a unique art form, thrives exclusively in the village of Xuân La, located in Phú Xuyên district, renowned for its longstanding artisan communities. This traditional folk game, once edible, was crafted from glutinous rice flour and sesame, meticulously prepared using a secret recipe. In the past, tò he was referred to as 'bird and stork cakes' as the villagers' creations mainly depicted birds and storks, showcased at local festivals. Over time, each sculpture incorporated a whistle, producing the distinctive sound 'tò te tí te' when blown, giving birth to the name 'tò he' in a playful twist of pronunciation.

From the realm of birds and storks, tò he has evolved into various captivating forms.

I visited the home of the talented artisan Nguyễn Văn Thành, one of the two recognized masters of the village. Despite his youth, Thành leads the tò he club, an initiative he founded in the village. During his university years in Hanoi, Thành seized every opportunity to sell tò he in parks and at school gates, preserving the traditional craft. Thành shared that his fascination with tò he began at the age of three. He emphasized that becoming a skilled tò he artist requires not only dexterity but also a vivid imagination.

Craftsman Nguyễn Văn Thành alongside his whimsical tò he creations.

He then arranged his tools to demonstrate a few basic techniques. The dough used for molding tò he has evolved significantly; gone are the days of using artificial dyes—now, artisans rely on natural colors derived from turmeric (yellow), charcoal (black), and beetroot (red). The artisan's hands skillfully manipulated each lump of dough, deftly shaping and pulling with incredible finesse. In a fleeting moment, he completed a masterpiece—a pig embracing a bouquet of roses, followed by a swift creation of a proud rooster displaying its vibrant plumage.

The softening process of the molding dough.

Refining the shape with a small comb.

Adorable little pig embracing a bouquet.

Although still taking shape, one can already perceive the proud image of a rooster.

He explained that a novice would need about 3 months to create their initial pieces, but those with talent and a vivid imagination could 'release' market-ready products in just a week. Presently, a tò he sculpture is sold for prices ranging from 15,000 VND to 20,000 VND. If you happen to stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake on the weekend, you'll come across a tò he stall. These craftsmen are also residents of Xuân La village.

Some noteworthy points

Getting there: Xuân La tò he village is situated in Phượng Dục commune, Phú Xuyên district, approximately 30 km from the center of Hanoi. If driving a motorbike, take National Highway 1A directly. Once in Phú Xuyên, ask for directions to Xuân La village; locals will guide you warmly. If taking the bus, catch bus 06E from Giap Bat bus station to Phú Túc (Phú Xuyên), get off at the opposite side of the milestone at km 5 - provincial road 429, then hire a motorbike taxi for about 4 km into the village.The village has a tò he club, meeting approximately every 3 months; however, the schedule is not fixed, and only club members are notified. If you visit the village at the right time, you can participate in the meetings and watch the artisans perform.If you intend to visit Xuân La tò he village, it's advisable to contact the artisans in advance as tò he is not mass-produced. You can reach out to artisans Nguyễn Văn Thành (Phone: 0168 249 0416), Nguyễn Văn Định (Phone: 0912 683 006), or Chu Tiến Công (inquire at Mr. Gảy's house, known for his tò he craftsmanship).

Summary

Artisans in Xuân La tò he village always strive to meet the preferences of the younger generation.

While traditional tò he creations featured only birds, storks, pigs, and chickens, today's youth seeks more diverse figures, challenging artisans to continuously update their repertoire to meet market demands. Moreover, artisans in Xuân La tò he village are evolving into art performers and educators, moving away from the daily grind of pedaling worn-out bicycles, carrying a small wooden box behind. This marks a commendable development for a tradition deeply rooted in the local culture.
Author: Mai Minh Đức
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