Embarking on a picturesque journey to a Japanese village that resembles a painting

Shirakawa-go stands as the oldest ancient village in the land of the Rising Sun. In winter, when snow blankets Shirakawa-go, it becomes a fairytale scene illuminated by night.

Embarking on a picturesque journey to a Japanese village

Marveling at the golden and crimson leaves in Kyoto, I boarded the Shinkansen to Nagoya and stored my belongings in a locker to catch a bus to witness the dazzling light festival at Nabana No Sato. Lost in the enchanting maze of lights, I took the last bus back to Nagoya station and spent the night there, awaiting dawn to catch a train to Takayama. Arriving on a crisp autumn day and being a weekend, affordable accommodations were scarce. I tried karaoke joints and game parlors near the station to seek shelter for the night, but they were all packed. Nagoya station, not operating 24/7, closed when trains ceased operations. After much searching, I stumbled upon a 24-hour Denny's café, thanks to the guidance of Vietnamese friends living in Nagoya whom I connected with on Facebook. There, I sipped coffee to ward off the chill, waiting for daybreak while outside temperatures dropped to 3-4 degrees Celsius.

Boarding the earliest JR train to Takayama, I arrived shortly after 10 am. Takayama's biting cold at 1 degree Celsius made me shiver as I trudged along the deserted streets, exhaling clouds of breath. I returned to the inn to drop off my luggage, added layers of clothing, and then wandered around Takayama.

I fell in love with this quaint little town from my first visit, during the springtime when cherry blossoms were in full bloom. Takayama is nearly 200 km from Nagoya and is sparsely populated, with both locals and tourists. Perhaps, in my opinion, Takayama serves as a stopover for tourists to visit the historic village of Shirakawa-go, as the scenery here is nothing exceptional. Nevertheless, I found myself captivated by its tranquil and unassuming charm.

Takayama, though compact, offers quaint streets lined with authentic Japanese shops, creating a charming atmosphere in its ancient narrow alleys. The historic district attracts many tourists, yet it maintains a serene ambiance unlike the bustling tourist hubs of Kyoto or Tokyo. The shops boast authentic 'Made in Japan' products, exuding local charm without any loud pitches. Visitors effortlessly blend in, engaging in light-hearted conversations, contributing to Takayama's endearing tranquility.

I adore the cafes in Takayama, and this time I stumbled upon Don Cafe, the oldest coffee shop here since 1951. Despite its small size, the café exudes warmth, with soft music playing in the background and delicious coffee brewing. The elderly owner and servers, though of advanced age, are always cheerful and friendly, welcoming guests with smiles and affectionate glances. Every day, morning and evening, I visit Don Cafe for a cup of hot coffee and indulge in their delectable pastries, perfectly catering to my palate. I find myself addicted to Don Cafe, and on the day of my departure from Takayama, I left early for the station and couldn't visit for my usual morning coffee, feeling a pang of longing. Truly, I miss the warm, fragrant ambiance of the café, the cozy refuge from the chilly evenings, and the gentle Christmas melodies playing as I sit in my familiar spot, sipping coffee and watching the world go by.

Shirakawa-go is renowned as the oldest village in the land of the Rising Sun. My previous visit was marred by inclement weather, so I resolved to return and explore its beauty to my heart's content. The journey from Takayama to Shirakawa-go takes about an hour. Perched in the highlands, this ancient village is always colder than Takayama. Despite its lofty location, the roads leading here are well-constructed with numerous mountain tunnels, sparing travelers from arduous climbs. Though snow had begun to fall before my arrival, it hadn't accumulated enough to blanket the landscape completely. The next morning, while the sun shone, a slight mist hung in the air, partially obscuring the entire village, creating a mystical atmosphere. Although the view wasn't perfect, it was satisfying, and I've heard that during winter, when the snow blankets the village, Shirakawa-go transforms into a mesmerizing fairytale scene, especially at night.

Nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains, Shirakawa-go showcases unique beauty in every season. According to the locals, winter is the most beautiful and tourist-laden season here due to the enchanting scenery I've just described. What attracts me to Shirakawa-go? Setting aside its historical and World Heritage status... For me, it's the peaceful simplicity, the rustic charm exuded by the quaint village, the genuine warmth of its people, the distinctive houses made from traditional materials, and the patchwork of rice fields, all enveloped in the rural ambiance that always tugs at my heartstrings, leaving me captivated.

Each region has its own allure, captivating travelers who venture into Japan. For me, the tranquil countryside and quaint, sparsely populated towns hold a special appeal. Nikko, Takayama, Shirakawa-go... and undoubtedly, there are many more places in Japan awaiting my exploration. Slowly but surely, I'll uncover them all... Exploring Japan requires a slow pace, soft spoken words, and deep appreciation... only then can one truly understand the beauty and allure of this captivating country.

Some tips for those planning to visit Shirakawa-go:

Nagoya serves as a convenient stopover for visiting Nabana No Sato, Takayama, and beyond. If you're aiming to explore these areas efficiently, flying directly to Nagoya is advisable. Otherwise, Tokyo or Osaka are viable alternatives, followed by using the JR Pass to reach Nagoya.

1. Visiting Nabana No Sato

You can take a train followed by a bus journey, but personally, I find the entire bus trip much more comfortable. Adjacent to Nagoya Station is the Meitetsu Bus Center, the departure point for this route. Simply follow the directional signs within the building adjacent to the station. Ticket sales are on the 3rd floor; once purchased, proceed to the 4th floor to board the bus, which takes approximately 50 minutes to reach Nabana No Sato. Everything is straightforward with clear instructions.

The bus station at Nabana No Sato is right in front of this area. A few steps away is the ticket counter to purchase admission tickets. Tickets cost 2,100 yen, inclusive of two 1,000 yen vouchers that can be used for souvenir purchases at the exit.

For visiting Nabana, it's best to go in the afternoon to admire the flowers, leaves, and trees, then stay till evening to witness the lights before returning to Nagoya via the bus station upon arrival. Remember to check the last bus schedule to ensure a ride back to Nagoya.

This light festival runs from November to March, with extensions rumored to continue until May. It's essential to double-check the timing when planning your visit. Google has all the information you need! Be diligent in searching; don't hesitate to look up anything you're unsure about.

2. Traveling to Takayama

There are multiple trains departing daily from Nagoya to Takayama. This route is covered by the JR Pass. Check the train schedule at: www.hyperdia.com

Takayama Station is conveniently located near most hostels, hotels, and accommodations in Takayama, within walking distance. Backpackers may consider these two hostels, both of which I've stayed at and found excellent: K’s House Takayama Hostel and J- Hoppers Hida Takayama Guest House. For those with a higher budget, there are plenty of hotels, ryokans, etc., available here.

3. Dining

There are plenty of dining options available, offering a wide variety of Japanese cuisine and delicious ramen. For budget-friendly meals, consider dining at local eateries, or grab convenient options like rice balls, packaged meals, or instant noodles from Family Mart or 7-Eleven.

4. Visiting Shirakawa-go

There are two ways to get here from Shirakawa-go:

- One is to go to the bus station near JR Takayama station, buy a bus ticket, and then head to Shirakawa-go. It's advisable to go in the morning to have more time to explore. The round-trip ticket costs 4,420 yen.

- The second option is to purchase an open tour from J-Hoppers for 4,400 yen per person. Visit the J-Hoppers website to book in advance. J-Hoppers offers 2 tours daily to this village. Most guests are gathered from hostels and dorms here. Joining this tour with fellow backpackers is enjoyable, but the time is more limited compared to taking the bus independently.

According to Ngoisao.net

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Reference: Travel guide Mytour