Embarking on the daring ascent of Putaleng - the most challenging peak in Vietnam.

The majestic Putaleng peak, standing at an impressive 3,049 meters, is nestled in Tả Lèng commune, Tam Đường district, Lai Châu province, often hailed as the 'second roof' of Vietnam.

Embarking on the daring ascent of Putaleng - the most challenging peak in Vietnam.

In mid-April, with the weather still mild, our group of 6 decided to test our mettle against Putaleng. Compared to the summits of Fansipan, Bạch Mộc, and other peaks we've conquered, this mountain is renowned for its difficulty, long climbing routes, and steep terrain.

Opting for a two-day, one-night climbing route, we set off from Phô village, Hồ Thầu commune (Tam Đường district), returning via the Tả Lèng trail to fully appreciate the mountainous landscape and gain diverse climbing experiences. This route is shorter than the usual three-day, two-night expeditions, so we had to move swiftly.

Early in the morning, following the watercourse from the upper source down to the village, we eagerly trailed behind Mr. A Páo, a Dao ethnic local. The early-April weather on the mountain was surprisingly chilly, but after ascending a few hundred meters, we all had to shed our jackets due to the heat. It was then that I realized why people typically avoid climbing northern peaks from late May to September - the scorching heat and the risk of flash floods during the rainy season.

According to the wisdom of Mr. A Páo, the first 30-60 minutes of mountain climbing are the most physically demanding, but the body gradually adapts. While ascending, it's advisable not to rest for too long as it may lead to muscle stiffness. During breaks, it's essential to wipe off sweat and wear a jacket if the weather is cold to prevent catching a chill.

After about an hour of climbing, we approached a rare, pristine forest in Vietnam, witnessing a carpet of diverse vegetation. Crossing several small streams to reach Thầu stream, the group followed the watercourse uphill. Thầu stream, gentle and adorned with large rock formations forming small reservoirs, offered clear and refreshing water. We climbed for about 30 minutes, then took a break to splash our faces with stream water. By 11 am, we stopped for lunch by the stream, next to the sun-dried herbal products of the locals.

While the porters prepared food (sticky rice, bread, sausage), we refreshed ourselves with cold stream water to aid quick body recovery. After the meal, each of us found flat rocks under the forest canopy, taking advantage of a 15-20 minute power nap. Next, we had to overcome a challenging section before reaching the overnight resting site.

The three steep peaks leave no flat stretches. This is the 'daunting' challenge of Putaleng, making this climbing route much tougher than Bạch Mộc and Fansipan. Many times, I had to hoist myself onto tree branches for climbing, and in some places, crawling on all fours was necessary. Fortunately, this section mostly traversed under the forest canopy, providing relief from the scorching sun.

During this challenging stretch, our group split into three teams, each with two individuals and two porters, communicating via walkie-talkies as there's no phone signal in the forest. We followed a routine of 30 minutes of walking, 5 minutes of rest, and then resumed.

Around 3 pm, we reached the mountain peak, about an hour's climb from the overnight camp. From here, the group could see the Putaleng summit. Casting our gaze around, we witnessed a sea of mountain clouds and the ancient forest canopy below. From this point, the group had to descend to the camp, facing steep slopes. We moved cautiously, sometimes resorting to crawling or sliding in places where a misstep or fall, though not perilous, could hinder further climbing due to sprains or joint dislocations.

We reached the camp at 4:10 pm, taking a total of 7.5 hours (including a lunch break) to conquer the 10 km mountainous forest trail.

The resting camp can accommodate 80 people, nestled in a wind-sheltered valley next to a large stream. It was built by a local group, including Mr. A Páo, two years ago. Previously, climbers had to pitch tents for rest, risking the cold and danger in bad weather or rain, with the potential for flash floods and falling branches.

While waiting for the porters to prepare dinner, we went down to the stream to wash our faces and change clothes. The stream's water temperature was very low, so not everyone dared to swim for fear of the cold. The mountain weather changes rapidly. By 6 pm, it was dark and chilly, with strong winds, and the temperature dropped to around 15°C, while at the same time in Hanoi, it was 27°C. Overnight, the mountain temperature dropped an additional 2-3 degrees.

We had dinner at 7 pm, consisting of boiled and fried chicken, pork, and vegetables prepared by the porters, along with canned and preserved items brought by the team members. After the meal, we quickly went to sleep to prepare for the journey to the summit and the descent of the 25 km trail the next day.

Our group woke up at 5 am. After breakfast, leaving our backpacks and gear at the camp, we set off for the mountain peak. Except for A Páo from Hồ Thầu commune, the five Mong porters from Bạch Mộc (80 km from Hồ Thầu) were also excited as it was their first time climbing Putaleng's summit.

The path from the camp to the summit mainly traversed bamboo and rhododendron forests. The trail was not steep, so we didn't exert too much energy. Approaching the Putaleng summit, we marveled at the breathtaking scenery of the mountainous forest, standing above to admire the patches of ancient rhododendron forests in red, yellow, pink, and purple hues competing below.

We reached the summit at 8:30 am, enjoying dry and cool weather with an outdoor temperature of around 18-20°C. The most feared condition for mountain climbing is rainy weather, as slippery paths pose great danger, and the scenic beauty of the mountainous forest remains obscured.

During the approximately 45 minutes at the summit, we filmed, took photos, rested, and departed at 9:15 am. The descent from the peak to the camp took about an hour and a half, more than half the time it took to climb. At 11 am, we had lunch, rested, and left the camp at 12 pm, descending via the Tả Lèng trail.

We anticipated reaching the forest edge around 4 pm with the same descent speed as in the morning. However, the descent trail was much longer than expected and resembled scenes from a fairy tale. Towering trees covered in moss and the majestic mountain peaks captivated us, prolonging our stops to admire the scenery and take photos.

By 2 pm, we arrived at a camp at an altitude of 1,800 m, a common overnight stop for other trekkers following the three-day, two-night itinerary. From this camp downwards, we followed another larger stream, bigger than Thầu stream. At this point, everyone was exhausted, nearly drained, necessitating help from the porter to carry their belongings.

Mr. A Páo led the first two members of the group to the forest edge at 4:30 pm and hired motorbike taxis to get to the pre-arranged car 6 km away. An hour later, we, along with the porters, reached the location. The first group had a car waiting to take them back to Hanoi, concluding the challenging and adventurous Putaleng conquest.

Some Notes on Conquering Putaleng

Putaleng may not be the ideal place for cloud hunting, nor does it boast 'dinosaur spine' ridges, but it stands out for its rarity in Vietnam—a remaining ancient forest with ancient rhododendron flowers and magnificent streams flowing beneath towering mountain cliffs.

Climbing Putaleng is not advisable without prior experience on other peaks like Bạch Mộc, Fansipan, Tà Chì Nhù, etc. The trail here is longer and steeper.

It's recommended to practice stair climbing daily for about a month before attempting the climb.

Avoid climbing in the rain due to dangerous slippery conditions and the risk of flash floods or swift stream currents.

Contact guides and porters in advance for navigation assistance and to prepare meals for the expedition.

Pack as light as possible and consider hiring a porter for each person or two people sharing one porter. The forest is still very wild, prone to getting lost, and inhabited by many snakes (porter fee is 300,000 VND per day).

Drive yourself to Sa Pa (Lào Cai) or Tam Đường town (Lai Châu) for an overnight stay. The next morning, head to Tả Lèng to park your car (22 km from Hồ Thầu) and take a taxi or motorbike taxi back to start from Hồ Thầu commune (using different routes for departure and return).

Take a sleeper bus from Hanoi to Hồ Thầu overnight. Arrive the next morning, start the climb from Hồ Thầu commune. Upon return, take a motorbike taxi or taxi from Tả Lèng to Lai Châu city and catch a bus from Lai Châu back to Hanoi.

The two-day, one-night itinerary is suitable for those with endurance and experience: Depart early from Hồ Thầu commune and stay overnight at an elevation of 2,400 m. The next day, conquer Putaleng's summit early in the morning to descend towards Tả Lèng in the late afternoon.

For a three-day, two-night trip, spend the second night at a camp at an altitude of 1,800 m on the descent route towards Tả Lèng.

Source: Đức Hùng/ Vnexpress

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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour