Enchanted Golden Xim

This year, as the rice season ripens, we ventured to explore the beauty of Golden Xim - a commune in the highlands of Bac Yen district (Son La), part of the Tà Xùa natural reserve.

Enchanted Golden Xim

The H'mong people in Golden Xim, and indeed the ethnic minorities in the Northwest in general, can only cultivate one rice crop on the terraced fields from May to October in the Gregorian calendar. Arriving in Golden Xim at this time, we are treated to the sight of golden fields stretching far and wide, perfect for capturing endless photos.

A golden paradise

The winding road from Bac Yen town to Ta Xua, with its steep slopes and sharp turns, provides quite the adventure. After 15km, we turn onto the inter-communal road towards Golden Xim, Hang Chu. The narrow road, barely visible in the distance, clings to the rugged mountainside. After traveling 6-7km from the junction, patches of ripe golden rice begin to dot the mountainside.

The road became less steep, winding and twisting gracefully along the mountainside at an altitude of over 1,000m above sea level. It gradually transformed into a scenic route for admiring the magnificent ripe rice fields. After traveling nearly 20km, we reached the center of Xim Vang commune, where the H'mong people make up 99% of the population.

The H'mong here often construct small shelters made of wood and bamboo on the terraced fieldsides to seek shelter from the rain and sun while working in the fields. Mrs. Giang Thi Chi's shelter was also makeshift, made of a few wooden planks and bamboo tubes.

Taking refuge in Mrs. Chi's shelter when a sudden mountain rain poured down heavily, we began to enjoy the painting of ripe rice fields in all directions as the rain subsided.

Before us lay a magnificent and enchanting landscape painting. However, unlike the terraced fields of Sa Pa, Y Ty, Hoang Su Phi, Mu Cang Chai... despite being the weekend, Xim Vang remained quite peaceful. Occasionally, we only encountered a few H'mong women with their young children herding goats and cattle.

After a moment of hesitation, Mrs. Vang Thi Chia - tending her goats on the dirt road leading to the village - stopped to talk to us in broken Vietnamese.

According to Mrs. Chia, the rice in the H'mong villages of Xim Vang usually begins to ripen from the second half of September to mid-October in the Gregorian calendar, with some fields ripening later than usual because H'mong people have to wait for sufficient rainfall before planting. The golden rice fields seem to be embellished with hints of green, or green about to turn golden.

Buzzing Field Visits, Harvesting Rice

In the latter half of September in the Gregorian calendar, the H'mong people in Xim Vang start venturing into the fields to visit the rice paddies. Many women carry their babies on their backs as they walk through the fields to inspect the crops. The children, perched on their mothers' backs, gleefully gaze out at the ripe golden rice fields.

Encountering us at the edge of the fields, Mrs. Thao Thi Su informed us that it takes about 6km of walking along the mountainsides to reach her family's rice fields.

She said, “We're sure to have a good harvest this year!” When she saw me raising my camera, she added, “Show us the photos later!” Some H'mong young men visit the fields not only to inspect but also to distribute fertilizer, repair the bunds, and check the rice...

The children also enjoy running out to the fields near their homes to play. Upon seeing us, the children burst into laughter, while the little girls shyly express their timidity. They grow up naturally, much like the wild grass and trees of the Northwest mountains.

The older children play on their own, while the younger ones cling to their mothers' backs for harvesting. In some ripe rice fields, H'mong women still wear their traditional colorful skirts, laughing and joking with each other.

“In a good harvest season, everyone feels joyful and content,” said a young H'mong man.

From Xim Vang, continuing on to Hang Chu, through the villages and across the hills, besides the beauty of golden rice fields, we discovered hidden within the lush forest many pristine streams and magnificent waterfalls. Especially striking is the underground waterfall of Hang Nang, resembling a majestic white silk ribbon cascading down from the hillside.

Then, the ancient rock field in the Khe Ho area (Hang Chu commune) with 9 gigantic granite blocks scattered across the valley floor. The rocks bear numerous carvings depicting unique figures, representing the ancient worldview of the universe, depicting daily life, work, production, or spirituality.

Passing through the enchanting fields of ripe rice, witnessing the rugged beauty, experiencing the fascinating culture of the H'mong villages made the three-day journey seem fleeting. Everyone kept lingering, reluctant to leave.

Some tips for visiting Xim Vang and Hang Chu:

- From Hanoi, you can travel by motorbike via National Highway 32, then National Highway 37 to Bac Yen town, then turn towards Ta Xua commune before heading to Xim Vang commune, Hang Chu. It's advisable to check your vehicle, fuel, and bring along tools for minor repairs.

- You can catch a passenger bus from Yen Nghia bus station, My Dinh to Bac Yen town for 120,000-150,000 VND per ticket depending on the bus company. In Bac Yen town, you can rent a motorbike for 150,000-200,000 VND per day (excluding fuel) to travel to Xim Vang, Hang Chu.

- The best time to admire the rice fields in Xim Vang is from September 20th to October 10th (Gregorian calendar). However, visitors should bring their own food and drinks as there are very few eateries here. Roadside food stalls offer meals for 50,000 VND per serving.

- There are currently no hotels or guesthouses in Xim Vang, Hang Chu, so tourists must go to Ta Xua commune to rent accommodations. Homestays cost around 50,000 VND per person per night, or 150,000-200,000 VND per room for two people per night in budget guesthouses.

By Hai Duong, Nguyen Duy/Tuoi Tre

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Reference: Mytour travel guide