Not enticed by beautiful beaches on scorching summer days, our group decided to seek refuge in the pristine forests of An Lac (Bac Giang), nestling ourselves under the ancient tree canopies, immersing in the cool stream waters.
The Marvelous An Lac Primeval Forest

Apart from the traditional cultural beauties of the ancient Kinh Bac region, Bac Giang is also bestowed with many charming and picturesque natural landscapes. The wild mountainous forests, stunning streams, and waterfalls in the remote land of An Lac are truly mesmerizing.
Nature's Gift
The rugged and mysterious Khe Ro – a magnificent scene in the Western Yen Tu mountainous region (Bac Giang), with its rustling sounds akin to a melodious harp breaking the tranquil atmosphere of the An Lac mountainous forests, has long been a captivating destination for many travelers from Lang Son, Hanoi, Bac Ninh, Quang Ninh, and even Bac Giang itself.
In the morning, after a journey of over 150km from Hanoi, our motorbike heated up, covered in red dust. Upon reaching An Lac, we encountered a stream overflowing across the road, irresistible, we plunged into the cool water together.
Occasionally, groups of vehicles zoomed past. Visitors flock here, outnumbering the locals. Kids excitedly accompany their parents for distant outings, equipped with life jackets for stream dips. Young adults eagerly divide food and drinks, embarking on adventurous trips into the pristine forest.
Stilt houses begin to appear by the stream amidst lush green forests. As we discovered, with permission from local authorities, in recent years, some households of ethnic minorities including the Tay, Nung, Cao Lan, and a few Kinh people from upstream have been allowed to operate homestay tourism, selling food and drinks to serve tourists.
Mr. Duong Van Thong, a stilt house owner here, mentioned that An Lac used to be very wild, hardly known to anyone besides forest rangers. But about five years ago, some Western tourists on adventurous trips from Yen Tu, Quang Ninh, stopped here and explored this forest area.
After information about this land appeared on various networks, more and more tourists from within and outside the province flocked here.
Due to the distance from the town center, the hub of Son Dong district, all services including food, drinks, walking shoes, stream wading gear, and accommodation are essential for tourists.
Mr. Thong's family and some local residents have stepped up to offer services to tourists. Some provide parking services, sell drinks, raise chickens and pigs to sell to tourists. Others build elevated houses or utilize their own homes for overnight stays for visitors.
The villages and hamlets in An Lac are predominantly inhabited by ethnic minorities, with the Tày people accounting for nearly 80%, followed by the Nùng, Cao Lan, Sán Chỉ, and a small number of Kinh people.
The first impression upon arriving here is the sight of elevated houses and earth-toned structures, adorned with characteristic bamboo fences, giving off a warm and welcoming vibe. Despite the dirt paths within the village, the locals take great care to maintain cleanliness and tidiness.
Exploration and Experience
After parking our vehicle, taking a few minutes to rest, and gaining essential insights from the locals, we embarked on a walk along the narrow concrete path beside the rocky stream.
According to the geographical map provided by the Sơn Động district forest rangers, the entire exploration route in An Lac spans 5-6km from the parking area. The serene nature of An Lac is encapsulated by its surrounding pristine forests, meandering streams, and patches of fruit orchards and simple dwellings.
Occasionally, we stumble upon a stilt house nestled amidst the pristine Khe Ro primeval forest, with mist hanging delicately just behind. The tranquility is so profound that all we perceive are the melodies of birds, the crowing of roosters, and the murmuring stream, a lush green haven.
At intervals along the way, small streams form quaint ponds. The water is crystal clear, revealing the bottom, enticing both children and adults to prepare swimsuits for a refreshing dip.
The sensation of 'clouds floating overhead... and babbling streams' is ever-present in every traveler. Indeed, the cool, exhilarating water in these natural pools is truly marvelous. Immersing oneself in that water amid the scorching weather dispels all fatigue and despondency.
A local resident mentioned that despite the increasing number of tourists, An Lac remains clean thanks to local youth volunteer groups who come here every weekend to collect garbage. Furthermore, they assist in reforestation and harvesting vegetables...
Venturing deep into the primeval forest along winding paths, we suddenly come across a large stilt house amidst the bustling noise of several tourist groups. This is a designated lunch stop for tourists arranged by forestry officials and authorities.
According to Mr. Minh, a native, this stilt house is built for tourists to gather for meals and rest, avoiding the issue of tourists starting fires or littering haphazardly in the forest. The stilt house is erected near the core of the primeval forest, offering magnificent scenery.
In front of the house, there lies a serene, azure pond, surrounded by lush trees. Visitors can take a break here, unpack their pre-prepared meals, or indulge in traditional delicacies of the Tay and Nung ethnic groups such as roasted pork, grilled chicken, clay-wrapped grilled chicken, sautéed bitter vegetables...
As the afternoon wears on and our steps grow weary, we seek refuge in a local homestay for the night. Those who have traveled from afar to An Lac and spent a night in the village can truly appreciate its tranquil beauty.
In the early morning, as the birds and roosters compete in their morning calls, travelers awaken from deep slumber to embrace the peaceful morning of An Lac. The air is cool, the atmosphere refreshing, and one can admire the lush green rows of dew-kissed vegetables glistening in the garden...
Source: Tuoi Tre
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Reference: Travel guide Mytour
TravelHiveJune 9th, 2016