Explore Kon So Lal village and enjoy the clown dance

The old Kon So Lal village, situated in Ha Tay commune, Chư Pah district, is about 50km north of Pleiku city in Gia Lai province. This centuries-old village carries the distinctive characteristics of the Ba Na people, a heritage of the Central Highlands but sadly declining.

The old Kon So Lal village is nestled in front of the forest. It is called the old village because since 2002, the households in the village have been relocated and settled in the new Kon So Lal village about 3km away. The new village is now neat with houses made of concrete and tin roofs, with electricity and clean water supplied to each house.

The hundred-year-old village

The old village lacks electricity, shops, and is inhabited by only four individuals, namely Bok Chil, Bok Chung, Bok Koch, and Mrs. Dyoi, all aged between 70 and 80. Like an original architecture museum that has been closed, around the old Kon So Lal village, there are numerous jackfruit trees, soursop trees, and fig trees forming a lush canopy shading over 50 thatched-roof houses, with walls made of mud mixed with straw.

The roofs of the houses are unevenly scattered on a fairly flat piece of land. In the middle of the village is a stilt house with short legs, majestic, its roof glistening in the sunlight, slightly curved and long like an inverted large boat.

Resembling the ancient Ba Na communal house, as described by writer Nguyễn Ngọc, 'dignified and somewhat heavy, like a wise and benevolent old man, or like a deep and murky punctuation mark, adding a weight, a profound depth, with a touch of mystery, sacredness to the harmonious architectural melody of the village.'

It truly is the most beautiful village in the original Ba Na architectural style that I have ever encountered. The feeling of profound tranquility upon stepping foot in the village, the melodious chirping of birds amidst the lush greenery, the rustling of pigs, and the clucking of chickens on the house's walls... In the distance, the edge of the forest showcases countless golden sunflowers...

In the golden afternoon sunlight pouring down the thatched roofs, 80-year-old Mr. Chưng and his 2-year-old grandchild sit meticulously weaving baskets with bamboo. Seeing a stranger in the village, the old man happily invites them in for a drink, then brings out the goong instrument to play. The resonating sound of the instrument, solemn and sonorous, seems to convey a message to travelers to stay longer to alleviate the sorrow of this ancient and venerable village.

Hà Tây commune chairman, Đinh Sưk, around 60 years old, recounts: 'I don't even know how old Kon Sơ Lăl village is. All I know is that it has been there since my grandparents' time, probably over a hundred years old. The old village used to have 85 households with 454 inhabitants. The villagers moved to the new village because of electricity and clean water. I regret the old village a lot, but I don't know what to do!'

Preserve the tradition of pơtuals

Visiting Kon Sơ Lăl during festivals, you'll be impressed by the pơtuals (clowns). 'It can be said that this is a unique cultural feature of the Ba Na people in this village and our Hà Tây commune in general,' Mr. Đinh Sưk proudly remarks.

In Jrai funerals, only pram (puppets) are present, but in all Ba Na ceremonies such as funeral rites, new rice celebrations, victory commemorations... pơtuals with their 'xoang prim' dance are a must. Pơtuals are coated with a layer of clay, their entire bodies painted in a light yellow hue, adorned with tails.

The makeup tools for pơtuals are incredibly simple and rustic, using clay from the stream mixed with water to form a paste applied to the body. To make an impression, villagers also use long mun tree roots (si tree roots) or patch together torn sacks into peculiar shirts and skirts.

Locals believe that the appearance of pơtuals soothes the pain of those left behind during the pơ thi ceremony (funeral), while also enhancing the joy of a bountiful harvest during new rice celebrations... Pơtuals play both main and supporting roles but are indispensable in the village festivals.

I left Kon So Lal village as the afternoon sun turned golden. The century-old village has grown quieter, yet the people of Kon So Lal silently preserve the cultural architecture of their ancestors. I wonder if in the future, when the older generation departs to the other world, who will continue the work of preserving this cultural heritage for the Central Highlands.

Such a fantastic addition to Gia Lai tourism, yet why has no one thought of it before?

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Source: Travel Guide by Mytour – As Reported by Tuoi Tre Online