Buzz
When you mention Indonesia, Bali often comes to mind - the famous island that attracts millions of tourists every year. However, Indonesia also boasts the forgotten and barren land of East Java, covered in volcanic ash with active volcanoes still rumbling every day.
East Java captivates wanderers, inspiring them to embark on a journey of self-discovery. I decided to embrace the spirit of solo travel, immersing myself in the sensation of solitude amidst the vast sky and earth. Determined to experience the essence of solo-travel, I set out to trek the slopes of active volcanoes with the motto 'NO TOURS, NO GUIDE' for this adventure.
East Java - the allure of the desolate terrain
Journeying - the pivotal 60% determinant of this expedition's success
To reach Surabaya's Juanda International Airport, a layover is inevitable. Currently, Vietnam lacks direct flights to Bali or Surabaya, necessitating a domestic connection to Juanda Airport.
I opted for an overnight layover in Kuala Lumpur, arriving in Surabaya the following morning. Why is transportation the decision-making factor for 60% of this journey? The trekking and sightseeing spots are quite distant, requiring 5 to 6 hours of travel between each location. Envision a travel itinerary like this: starting from Surabaya city, moving to Probolinggo town to reach Cemoro Lawang village, and early morning trekking to the Bromo volcano crater. Afterward, moving to Banyuwangi for a night trek to the world's largest acidic lake, Kawah Ijen. Then, traveling to Katepang port, taking a boat to Bali island, enjoying underwater diving, and returning to Vietnam.
Traveling across East Java using various modes of transportation
Footsteps on the still-active Bromo volcano crater
Navigating solo travel in Indonesia isn't as challenging as I thought. Upon landing at Juanda Airport, I promptly hailed a taxi to Surabaya Gubeng station to purchase a ticket to Probolinggo for 100,000 IDR (departure 14:30 - 16:30). The journey from the airport to the station was amidst pouring rain and heavy traffic, causing a slightly delayed ride.
Surabaya Gubeng - a clean and modern station
After a scenic 2-hour train ride, I arrived in the charming town of Probolinggo at the stunning sunset hour. According to the plan, I intended to take a bus to Cemoro Lawang village, but luck was not on my side as there were no available trips that day. I booked a Gojek driver to take me directly to the homestay in the village, a journey of about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Halfway there, the heavens opened up, and I arrived completely drenched. A tip for fellow travelers: upon disembarking, consider joining fellow backpackers to collectively hire a car for a quicker ascent up the mountain. Unlike my experience, it will save you from fatigue, especially when arriving at your destination at 8 in the evening. After dining at a local restaurant in the village, I returned for a refreshing shower, gearing up for an early morning trek.
Boarding the train at half past four in the afternoon, the late-afternoon sun in Probolinggo is simply breathtaking
Awaking to the alarm at 1 in the morning, preparing my belongings, I set off from the homestay to King Kong View Point to capture the sunrise and witness Cemoro Lawang village immersed in a sea of clouds. To reach this point, there are two options: hire a jeep to ascend the paved road or challenge oneself by trekking up the slippery mountain trail (perhaps due to the previous night's rain) without incurring any cost. Of course, I chose the trekking option at 1 in the morning amidst the fog. After approximately 3 hours of trekking, boldly following the maps, I arrived at the destination.
On the trekking route to King Kong View Point, Cemoro Lawang village shrouded in mist
Standing atop King Kong Point at 4:30 in the morning, gazing at the majestic panorama. On one side, a sea of clouds embracing the tranquil Cemoro Lawang village still slumbering, on the other side, the Tengger range consisting of three volcanic peaks: Batol (2240m), Bromo (2329m), Semeru (3676m) in eruption, an indescribable sense of joy.
The enchanting Tengger range in the morning
Vividly recalling the transitional moment between light and darkness at King Kong, the Tengger people believe it to be a cosmic hour when deities listen to their prayers. After capturing the timeless scenes, I promptly hailed a Gojek to the 'Black Desert' for a walk and ascent to the Bromo volcano crater.
The Black Desert - en route to the foot of Mount Bromo
At 6 in the morning, with the sun rising, clouds still enveloped the surroundings beneath the Bromo volcano. Walking in that space felt like venturing into an uninhabited desert. Contemplating the black sand and dust formed by volcanic ash underfoot, I trekked up to the Bromo volcano crater. Wandering on the crater's edge for an hour, silently listening to the active volcano's sounds, quietly gazing at the cloudy sky, tranquility unfolded right before me. Slowly feeling and penetrating into the heart.
Wandering on the active Bromo volcano crater
Marveling at the edge of the world's largest acidic lake - Kawah Ijen
Returning to the homestay for rest and a refreshing shower after a night of trekking. At 10 in the morning, continuing the journey by a direct six-hour drive from the village to the city of Banyuwangi, a long and scenic coastal route. Arriving, it was already dusk, hastily having dinner, then climbing into bed to sleep. Early in the morning, the trekking adventure to the world's largest acidic lake would begin again.
Kawah Ijen - the world's largest active acidic lake
I contacted the homestay owner to secure a spot on the morning transport to Ijen, making it quite convenient. Upon arrival, purchasing a ticket and commencing the trek to the lake's summit was also straightforward, given the numerous fellow hikers along the way. After a little over 2 hours of walking, I set foot to behold the magnificent wonders of nature. The lake's surface was calm, resembling a pristine sheet, with its greenish hue from the amalgamation of sulfur and acid. The slightly off-putting smell, akin to rotten eggs, wasn't as daunting as others had described. Walking an additional 10 minutes to the highest point, I sat, read a book, awaited the sunrise, and marveled at the surrounding crowd.
The stunning beauty of Ijen, mist and smoke in the early morning
Regrettably, my visit coincided with the miners' day off, preventing me from witnessing the mesmerizing blue fire. Nevertheless, everything was grand and beautiful, akin to a painting at Kawah Ijen.
Solo journey spanning across East Java
After trekking at Ijen, I grabbed a motorbike to Ketepang port, took a 1-hour ferry, similar to Cat Lai Ferry in Saigon, to cross to Bali. Fortunately, I met a local who gave me a ride straight to Kuta in their car, a 4-hour journey. In Kuta, I immediately rented a motorbike to explore before heading back to Vietnam.
Encountering an enchanting and exotic Indonesia
In summary, solo travel can be a bit lonely without someone to take photos, but many moments touched me deeply, making me want to cry. Meeting numerous enthusiastic Indonesian youths who generously shared their food was heartwarming. Trying Vietnamese food at the buzzing 'Mệ Vui' restaurant in Bali, navigating the left-hand traffic, discussing Vietnam with excitement with the homestay owner in Banyuwangi... Traveling makes Southeast Asia feel like home, and the lovely people of Indonesia contribute to this warm feeling.
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