Buzz
With its unique architecture blending past and present, the capital city of Havana in Cuba is hailed as the time-travel destination of the world.
Discovering Havana – A Time Capsule City
Setting foot on the eastern coast of Cuba in 1492, explorer Christopher Columbus exclaimed, 'This is the most beautiful land human eyes have ever seen!'. Thus, I've long harbored the desire to visit Cuba, knowing it would be a truly special journey.
In recent times, observing that tourism in Cuba has become a significant contributor to the national revenue and millions flock to the island annually, I was determined to explore Cuba before sanctions conclude, before McDonald's and Starbucks inundate every street corner...
The KLM flight from Amsterdam to Havana was packed to the brim, not a single seat left vacant. Dutch tourists, ten in a group, dressed casually with lightweight luggage, including a baby not even a year old and elderly folks with canes and wheelchairs. It's as if tourism is a civic duty for the people of the land of tulips.
The flight attendants were tall and graceful, with bare faces, no makeup, and hair tied loosely, always smiling and chatting pleasantly with each passenger, never resting for a moment during the 10-hour flight.
Upon landing at Jose Marti Airport, for a moment I felt like I was at Noi Bai Airport 20 years ago: deserted, simple, and old-fashioned. Simultaneously, over a dozen immigration gates operated quite seriously.
As far as I know, theoretically, American tourists are still not allowed to visit Cuba. But in reality, hundreds of thousands of Americans still buy tickets to Cuba from Canada, Mexico, and Cuban customs simply 'suggests' stamping their visa instead of their passport. And hardly any Americans returning from Cuba are fined as clearly stated in the embargo agreement.
Stepping out of the airport gate, we were hit by the hot, humid air of late April. The parking lot smelled of gasoline from relatively new buses imported from China and a fleet of vintage American cars over 50 years old.
Initially, I was amazed at how those 'museum' cars could still run on the streets. Cars manufactured before 1954 usually have a rounded shape. While those after 1955 are elongated and sharp like missiles.
Wealthier Cubans polish their cars to look like they just rolled out of the factory. Those with less money have dented, hole-ridden cars, paint peeling off like painted wooden doors.
Citizens are only permitted to buy, sell, or trade old cars dating back to before 1959 in Cuba. Newly imported cars require government permits at exorbitant prices, beyond the reach of ordinary citizens. However, this is precisely why these vintage American cars have become the unparalleled icons of Havana.
The overall impression of Havana is difficult to articulate due to its eclectic mix. A plethora of hotels and casinos in glamorous locations along the deserted azure coastline, conspicuously absent of any ships.
To meet the demands of tourism, many hotels have been renovated, featuring lively music and bustling bars. Sitting in the garden of the Hotel Nationale on a balmy evening, gazing out at the gently swaying coastline, with a fragrant cigar and a chilled Mojito in hand, I felt as though I was in a dream.
During the day, the scenery becomes clearer. The 'ownerless' buildings of former Cuban capitalists lining the coastal road are also crumbling, as state-owned properties cannot undergo renovations.
The tour guide whispered, 'Only houses with foreign remittances secretly purchase old properties, renovate them inside while leaving the exteriors dilapidated to avoid scrutiny, then rent them out to tourists.'
Apart from state-owned hotels, room rentals are the only privately-run businesses in Cuba permitted under the condition of taxation (private cafes, clothing stores, and cinemas were closed down years ago). We stayed in such a house.
The houses, built in the Spanish colonial style, boast high vaulted ceilings, antique tiled floors, and are refreshingly cool with an array of vintage wooden furniture pieces adorned with intricate carvings from the previous century such as grandfather clocks, dressing tables, dining tables, decorative cabinets, and rocking chairs...
The elderly neighbor lady stood watching us from the balcony, arms wide open as if welcoming us and chuckling to herself. Suddenly, a man wearing strings of dried garlic passed by, she signaled her interest to buy, lowered the rope, and he tied the garlic for her to pull up.
I nearly bumped into a three-wheeled fruit cart brimming with produce while engrossed in taking photos. Seeing my fascination as I picked up a bunch of banana leaves, the vendor beamed at me, encouraging me to take pictures, proudly displaying his gleaming white teeth.
Across the street, groups of elderly men gather under the shade of trees on the sidewalk, playing dominoes and chatting animatedly. Oh, how tranquil and peaceful it is, reminiscent of the streets of my hometown in Hanoi during the subsidy period!
Most of Havana's attractions lie within the historic district built by the Spanish in the 16th century. These houses remind me of castles from the tales of One Thousand and One Nights.
Since 1982, UNESCO has officially recognized this area on the World Heritage List for cultural preservation. Reading Hemingway's books and then visiting Cuba truly brings to life the spaces the writer described, leaving me thoroughly fascinated.
The Ambos Mundos Hotel, where Hemingway lived for many years and wrote the entire novel 'For Whom the Bell Tolls,' is a hotel located very close to the old port.
The famous tiny Room 511 with its simple furnishings and bookcase filled with his works translated into many languages around the world. It is known that Hemingway would have breakfast there every day and sometimes stay to write all day until night.
Strolling along the historic streets of Havana, I could also imagine why American tourists were so enamored with this place in the past.
Old Havana exudes the architectural ambiance of ancient Europe, with landmarks like the 18th-century Cathedral, which once housed the remains of Columbus, or the former presidential palace built in the Baroque style, Palacio de los Capitanes Generales.
The bustling squares are filled with photo galleries, old newspapers about Fidel Castro, Che Guevara, souvenir badges, and revolutionary caps.
The pedestrianized streets and shopping districts of Havana seem lively at first glance, no different from those in the US or Europe, but aside from food stores, the merchandise is quite amusing: old TVs sold with carpets, detergent, bicycle accessories, flip-flops...
We stumbled upon a bustling market stall, crowded with people queuing up. Today was the designated day for buying eggs with coupons, with each person carrying away a tray. There were also spiky biscuits, flour, and spices for sale. Everyone was excited, both buyers and sellers.
I reminisced about the rationing period in Vietnam, where everyone was thin due to food shortages. Contrary to my expectations, Cuban boys and girls are robust, healthy, and relatively well-dressed.
Cubans consume plenty of rice, beans, sweet potatoes, yams, cassava, and abundant fruits everywhere. It was papaya season, and each fruit weighed 1.5-2 kg, with golden skin, deep red flesh, and a rich, fragrant sweetness. Huge watermelons and pineapples filled the streets with vendors.
For lunch, we could dine at tourist spots with a menu featuring nothing special like ham sandwiches, cheese, or fried chicken or fish... But in the evening, we were taken to home-style eateries with lobsters bought from the black market as big as your forearm, fresh, meaty, and incredibly sweet.
As we bid farewell to Havana in the evening, we went to see a show at the Tropicana, a product introduced by the US since 1939 that Cuba couldn't resist due to its beauty, grandeur, and deep integration into Cuban culture. And the main thing is they make a lot of money because ticket prices are quite high and the outdoor stage always fills with thousands of spectators.
Many argue that after seeing Tropicana, Moulin Rouge seems quite 'weak.' I dare not judge, but Tropicana exudes a strong American vibe, as if you're in Las Vegas.
For ages, in Cuban parlance, 'mulat' has referred to individuals of mixed white and black heritage. Over many generations, they have a rich, honey-toned complexion, with some even having blue eyes and incredibly refined features, complemented by long, slender legs.
One couldn't find dancers more skilled than them. The Tropicana show largely draws inspiration from Cuban culture since the days of the indigenous tribes, incorporating native dances.
The seductive, powerful dance moves are accompanied by fast-paced music, pulsating to the point of breathlessness, and the extravagant costumes outshine even peacock feathers a hundredfold. I'm sure few regret having seen Tropicana in their lifetime.
Havana airport remains hot and crowded. As the plane took off, looking back at the city from above, I firmly believe that Cuba can only remain beautiful forever.
Earlier this year, upon seeing the photo of President Obama in the White House immediately after lifting the embargo on Cuba, I felt truly moved and joyful. May beauty always endure wherever it may be in the world.
According to Doanhnhansaigon
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Reference: Travel Guide from Mytour
MytourJuly 31, 2015
