Buzz
Submission for the 'Freedom to Explore' writing contest by Bình An Nguyen, narrating a solo trip to Southern Cambodia, discovering Kampot city, Kep beach, and Borkor mountain.
Due to time constraints, I opted for Southern Cambodia for a short solo escapade over the weekend.
Trip itinerary:
- Friday evening, took a Kumho bus (reservation hotline: 028 3752 7878) departing at 22:00 from Saigon to Ha Tien town (Kien Giang province).
- Saturday morning, boarded Mekong Travel bus (reservation hotline: 0772 630 000 – 0944 440 235; email: [email protected]) from Xa Xia Ha Tien border gate to Kampot city. Then rented a motorbike for a tour around Kampot. In the afternoon, continued riding back to Kep to enjoy the seaside. Stayed overnight at Kamar Trader Kampot hostel (dormitory room).
Sunday morning adventure awaits as we embark on a half-day tour up Bokor Mountain. By afternoon, we catch the last 4 PM ride with Mekong Travel back to Hà Tiên border. Come evening, we hop on a Kumho bus departing at 7:30 PM, arriving in Saigon by 3:30 AM Monday morning.
And so the journey begins.
Xà Xía Hà Tiên International Border Crossing
Hello Kampot, the charming riverside city.
Upon arrival in Kampot, a tuk-tuk whisks us away to Karma Traders Kampot guesthouse (booked in advance via facebook.com/karmatraderskampot). Since it's too early for check-in, we rent a scooter at $5/day, automatic transmission, excluding fuel. We grab a map at the reception and set off for a leisurely exploration.
The city of Kampot, located in Kampot province in southern Cambodia, lies 150km from the capital, Phnom Penh, and approximately 60km from the Prek Chak – Xà Xía border crossing. In the 19th century, Kampot served as an administrative center in the border region under French colonial rule. Despite the passage of time and historical upheavals, the city has seen limited infrastructure development and has largely retained its original character.
Strolling along various streets, running along the riverbank, heading towards the market, circling the roundabout with the durian statue (a local specialty), enjoying the cool breeze, admiring the scenery, basking in the noon sun, and experiencing a sudden shower.
Venturing alone is like this, there will always be unforgettable memories.
Durian roundabout
The old bridge spans the Kampot River
Kampot attracts many foreign tourists, and they stay here for a long time, almost like a vacation. The reason is, if you come here, you will understand the peaceful, breezy, and relaxed feeling of this small city by the river. As for Vietnamese tourists traveling to Southern Cambodia, they often visit the seaside town of Kep, go to Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay), or more commonly, go to the seaside town of Sihanoukville and then to Koh Rong Samloem and Koh Rong islands.
Phsar Kronat Market (Old market)
Unexpected rainfall
Kampot quietly captivates solitary travelers like a reminiscent and tranquil Hoi An. In certain corners, it feels as if glimpsing the nostalgia and serenity of my homeland...
By noon, I returned to the guesthouse, checked in, and seized the opportunity to join a group tour to Bokor Mountain the following day for $13, including a light lunch.
A dorm at Karma Traders Kampot is only $4/night, albeit slightly distant from the city center, it boasts tranquility and charming entertainment corners.
After a fitful sleep, I ventured out again, riding towards Kep city to admire the sea.
The road to Kep is pleasantly spacious; if you drive fast, it takes only about half an hour to reach here from Kampot's downtown.
Encountered a bustling market, turned out to be the crab market in Kep. The crabs here are not only fresh and delicious but also affordable. However, since I follow a vegetarian diet, I decided to pass on them...
Kep Beach
The city of Kep, located in Kep province (derived from the Khmer word 'Kaeb'), in southern Cambodia, is very close to the Vietnam border. Kep is the smallest province in Cambodia, and the city of Kep used to be the most famous seaside town in Cambodia, but it fell into difficulties for a period (especially after the Khmer Rouge era).
In recent years, Kep's coastal tourism has been revitalized, attracting many tourists to Kep, especially Vietnamese tourists, not only because of the proximity but also because of the scenery and cuisine. From the city of Kep, you can also take a boat to nearby Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay), where there are almost only pristine beaches, allowing you to truly 'be yourself.' Additionally, you can visit the pepper farm, butterfly farm, or Kep National Park.
The iconic white nude statue of a waiting woman. She has a face with European features, and it's said that because of the nude statue, many locals have clothed her, and inexplicably, the clothes always disappear later (!!!)
The famous crab statue symbolizing the seaside city of Kep
The coastal road lined with lush green banyan trees and tranquil scenery reminds me of Vung Tau city nearby.
In the evening, I returned to Kampot, had dinner at the guesthouse's restaurant, and rested after a tiring day of sightseeing.
Kampot town lights up at night.
The next morning, after checking out, I lounged on the hammock in front of the guesthouse, waiting for the tour van. Our guide, a tall Cambodian man with long curly black hair, greeted me. There were a total of 7 people on the van, including myself.
The van followed the road along the Kampot river, crossed the Kampot iron bridge, and continued straight (heading southwest) for about 10km until reaching the entrance gate to Bokor Mountain – also a national park – on the right. The entrance fee here is 2,000 Riel (approximately 11,000 VND per person). This fee was already included in the tour package I purchased.
From there, the van began the ascent up the mountain, winding along the zigzagging roads. The roads were newly paved, very smooth, and easy to navigate. You can also rent a motorbike and ride up the mountain yourself. Along the way, I saw many motorbikes ridden by Western tourists with backpacks or local Cambodians heading up the mountain. Locals mainly come here for worship, as there are both ancient and modern temples, and Bokor Mountain is considered a sacred place, suitable for meditation. Young Cambodians come up the mountain to take photos along the road or to visit streams and waterfalls.
Nestled amidst the ethereal mist, Bokor Mountain (also known as Elephant Mountain or Ta Lon Mountain) stands majestically at an elevation of approximately 1,090 meters above sea level.
Millions of years ago, traces suggest that Ta Lon Mountain lay deep beneath the sea, but some unknown force propelled it above the waves, shaping the landscape we behold today.
Since 1917, the French erected various structures atop Bokor Mountain, including churches, temples, guesthouses, and a casino, many of which now lie abandoned. For some Vietnamese and Cambodians (Khmer), Bokor holds sacred significance intertwined with numerous legends and myths. The statue of the goddess Di Mau (Madame Mao or the Veang Kh’mau holy maiden), Nham Thuyen Pagoda (Wat Sampov Pram), are revered sites visited by throngs of Khmer worshippers.
Today, Bokor Mountain has been designated as a national park, featuring the remnants of abandoned structures for history enthusiasts, temples and statues for spiritual seekers, and the grand Thansur Bokor Highland Resort for affluent vacationers seeking a cool and pristine atmosphere. The winding roads, wildflowers, and breathtaking vistas from atop attract adventurous souls. Moreover, Bokor boasts refreshing streams and cascades, offering idyllic spots for nature lovers to rest and rejuvenate.
The serpentine road gradually ascends, ferrying travelers to greater heights.
Though not every nook and cranny of Bokor Mountain could be explored during my half-day tour, it provided me with a comprehensive glimpse into this sacred peak.
The sacred statue of Veang Kh’mau, believed to be the deity governing Bokor
Kampot was once a colony of the French colonialists and was planned to be developed into a thriving city. Hence, it's no surprise that the Elephant Mountains – Bokor was developed as a small resort town on the mountaintop in the 1920s for wealthy French tourists and officials when visiting the area. The French built hotels, casinos, churches, post offices, and other necessary infrastructure, most of which still exist to this day – albeit in the form of ruins. By 1941, King Norodom Sihanouk ascended the throne and commissioned a beautiful palace on the slopes of Bokor, most notably the Black Palace.
The ruins of the Black Palace, a retreat of King Sihanouk
All that remains are crumbling walls stained with the hues of time
Vast landscapes stretch out as far as the eye can see from above
In the 1940s during the first Indochina War, Bokor was abandoned and gradually fell into desolation during World War II, and during and after the war in Vietnam. When Cambodia fell under Khmer Rouge occupation in the 1970s, Bokor became an ideal sanctuary in the conflict. The area surrounding Bokor and Kampot remained the refuge of the Khmer Rouge forces until the late 1990s.
The remnants atop Bokor Mountain predominantly bear the scars of war and the ravages of time.
An abandoned church stands in desolation.
Moss and weathered stones tell tales of ancient courage and passing epochs.
The ruins of the Bokor Palace Hotel & Casino, a vestige of French colonial ambition.
By midday, the group is chauffeured to their final destination: the picturesque twin-tiered waterfall site of Popokvill.
Popokvill, though dubbed a waterfall, proves elusive to conventional observation, as visitors perch atop rocky outcrops amidst trickling streams. Amidst the lush foliage enveloping the surrounding expanse lies a hollow, where the cascading waters converge, forming the dual-tiered cascade.
In Cambodian, Popokvil means swirling clouds...
The reason behind this name might be the presence of dense fog enveloping the waterfall's two tiers.
Early afternoon, the ride back to Kampot's center marked the end of the half-day excursion to Bokor Mountain. With ample time before the return trip to Ha Tien, I decided to brave the sun and stroll through the charming streets, taking one last glimpse of the picturesque Kampot city.
A vibrant beverage stall in downtown Kampot
Travelers engage in stand-up paddleboarding, a water sport akin to kayaking
Farewell Kampot, until we meet again!
