Buzz
A Go piece from Yunnan Province, each drop of sweat rolling down the brow of the craftsman, infusing the breath of a thousand-year-old culture...
The Vân Tử Museum is a grand traditional courtyard compound. Stepping inside, inspiration drawn from Go permeates every corner: Stone paths in black and white checkerboards; 10 thousand black and white Go pieces assembled into a Tai Chi symbol on the wall; green stone tables, carved with playable Go boards...
'Yunnan Go has a history of over 1,100 years. Even today, these pieces are meticulously crafted by hand...' The guide speaks of the process of crafting black and white Go pieces, leaving visitors in awe.
Bowing down to observe, the white pieces gleam like pearls, the black pieces graceful as the waters of an autumn lake. Holding a black Go piece up to the sunlight, it reflects a mesmerizing emerald hue.
'Behind these pieces lie many untold stories.' At 58, Luu Dinh Cu is the foremost master of Yunnan Go piece production. As he steps into the workshop behind the museum, the process of infusing life into these black and white Go pieces unfolds before our eyes.
Crafting Go Pieces
'Infusing vitality into the pieces, machinery cannot replace.'
Standing beside the furnace at 1,200°C, heat radiates onto the already sweltering face. Luu Dinh Cu's apprentice, holding a rounded iron rod, dips it into the furnace, coating it with molten metal, deftly transferring it onto the long iron sheet with the left hand, then smoothly turning to collect the material. The molten substance, upon contact with the iron, initially glows crimson, then turns milk-white, finally cooling into a raw Go piece.
'Dipping, dripping, turning,' seemingly simple motions, 3-5 seconds seamlessly. On the small iron rod lie 6-7 Go pieces; size, thickness, roundness, all identical. If not perfectly round, with patterns, or air bubbles, the piece is discarded. This brief action must be repeated thousands of times a day.
In the Yunnan Go piece workshop, Luu Dinh Cu's meticulous craftsmanship is unmatched. 'The right wrist must be firm, the movement of the hand must be precise, entirely relying on feeling to control the weight of each piece, practice makes perfect.' At his peak, Luu Dinh Cu can produce over 6,000 pieces a day, with a discard rate not exceeding 5%.
Shaping the form of these Go pieces is just one link in the chain to create a complete set of Yunnan Go pieces. From material selection, ingredient mixing, melting, dripping, shaping, polishing, cleaning, sorting, packaging... a total of 12 stages, taking 3-4 days. The high-temperature furnace runs continuously for 24 hours, controlling the temperature, ensuring the fire. Each step demands meticulous attention to detail to produce a 'premium' Yunnan Go piece.
Luu Dinh Cu casually retrieves a Go piece from his pocket: 'Black and white pieces each have their own characteristics, exquisite in structure, firm yet not brittle, heavy yet not slippery.' He drops the piece onto the Go board, the sound echoing like pearls colliding.
'Why do black Go pieces appear differently under light?' Luu Dinh Cu only smiles at the question. It turns out that during the process of making Go pieces, artisans have selected amethyst, hematite, and over 30 types of mineral stones, through different proportions, causing black Go pieces to have a bluish hue and different colors under sunlight.
Outside the workshop, baskets woven from bamboo are filled with finished Go pieces basking in the sun. Freshly out of the furnace, the pieces are bright, after polishing they become matte. Upon closer inspection, the white pieces have a pearl-like color, some have a milky white hue. Luu Dinh Cu explains, slightly ivory-toned white pieces are traditional-style pieces, while whiter ones are the newer style, more popular, higher production, and more affordable. 'We also have to keep up with market demand to constantly innovate.'
Precious Go pieces owe their value to the craftsmanship, the traditional technique passed down from generation to generation, pursuing perfection from start to finish. To achieve perfection, each piece must be measured with a ruler, the deviation should not exceed 0.5mm. Extremely minor flaws must be put back into the furnace for rework.
'From ancient times to the present, Go craftsmen infuse each piece with their heart and skill, blowing a bit of intuition into them, something that machines cannot do', Ha Hoa Phong, the technical heir of Go making, former director of the Yunnan Go piece workshop, exclaimed.
Inheritance
'A pure mind creates exquisite Go pieces'
The craft of making Yunnan Go pieces began in the Tang dynasty, flourished during the Ming and Qing dynasties, and was renowned as the 'National Treasure of Vân Tử'. Unfortunately, this traditional Go-making technique disappeared in the early years of the Republic of China. It wasn't until the 1960s that China launched a revival plan for this craft. However, the process was extremely challenging as it required rediscovering ancient techniques and the precious soul of a thousand-year tradition.
Luu Dinh Cu joined the Go piece manufacturing workshop in 1992, under the tutelage of Ha Hoa Phong - who brought the Go-making technique to the workshop in Yunnan in 1987.
At that time, the furnace still burned charcoal, grinding Go piece materials into powder, and melting them in high temperatures. Monitoring took over ten hours a day, leaving Luu Dinh Cu's face sooty. Later, the furnace was converted to electric, not only ensuring more stable temperature control but also significantly improving productivity and environmental protection.
Continuous innovation in technology, standardized production processes, and improved techniques have been witnessed. In recent years, the Yunnan Go piece workshop has developed three secret formulas, applied for 13 patents. Ha Hoa Phong and Luu Dinh Cu led the research and development team, creating over 40 Go piece products, officially gaining popularity overseas in 2019.
Esteemed connoisseurs praise Yunnan Go: 'Exudes serene and elegant beauty.' Yunnan Go has accompanied generations of Go masters in international tournaments.
In the fifth round of the national intangible cultural heritage list announced in 2021, Yunnan Go was listed under manufacturing techniques. Upon hearing the news, Luu Dinh Cu advised his apprentices: 'Maintain a clear mind to craft each Go piece meticulously, preserving the thousand-year-old craft from one generation to the next.'
Development
'Continuously innovating to ensure Yunnan Go thrives with the times.'
The Yunnan Go workshop in the ancient town of Quan Độ, once a welcoming museum for visitors from afar, with the workshop behind. Under the noon sun casting quiet shadows, the sound of grinding stones echoes. Craftsmen sit before the furnace, 'long irons warm with sweat, drops becoming Go pieces.'
Luu Dinh Cu has used this furnace for 31 years, from apprentice to master, now overseeing production. To master the art of 'drops becoming Go pieces,' craftsmen need to apprentice for at least 4-5 years.
Currently, there are over 20 skilled craftsmen in the workshop, all apprentices of Luu Dinh Cu, the longest-serving for over 10 years. Handcrafting Go pieces, mastery of technique alone isn't enough; the key is enduring solitude, controlling inner stillness, 'if the mind is preoccupied, beautiful Go pieces cannot be crafted.'
In today's age, industrial production has become mechanized, will traditional craftsmanship be replaced?
In reality, after successfully researching and developing Go piece casting machines, one-sided convex pieces have been produced using automated assembly lines, increasing output, reducing costs, improving sales figures. However, high-quality products still rely on craftsmanship. Luu Dinh Cu shares: 'The subtlest point of Go pieces is the droplet technique, with the same material and formula, machines mimic human movements and operate faster. Only through manual work, do Go pieces possess vitality.'
Devoting one's heart to the craft is a prerequisite, not only for Go piece making but for all other professions as well. Once, Luu Dinh Cu and six colleagues spent a month polishing 20 special Go pieces with intricate engravings. They did so with years of patient training without a single sigh.
Now in his old age, Luu Dinh Cu still maintains a strong passion for innovation. He can stay up all night researching materials to 'drip' out Go pieces according to customer demands.
According to Ha Hoa Phong, Vân Tử's development is like a game of Go, one must travel enough roads to find vitality.
Amidst the silent night, the handcrafted Go workshop remains illuminated. Touching the warm black and white Go pieces, the spirit of the craftsmen is passed down through generations, quietly and devotedly.
