Exploring the ancient Cham towers in Binh Dinh

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Twin Towers – Banh It Tower: tower complexes in and around Quy Nhon

Binh Lam Tower – Canh Tien Tower: towers in the former central area of ancient Vijaya

Duong Long Tower – Thu Thien Tower: bamboo bridge across the Kon River

The stunning beauty of Phu Loc Tower during sunset.

Binh Dinh, formerly known as Vijaya, once the capital of the Cham pa (10th - 15th century) with renowned Cham towers: the Twin Towers, Banh It Tower, Binh Lam Tower, Canh Tien Tower, Phu Loc Tower, Duong Long Tower, Thu Thien Tower, Hon Chuong Tower.

Apart from the challenging Hon Chuong Tower, which remains largely unexplored by archaeologists due to its perilous location, the other towers in Binh Dinh have been a frequent destination for Lưu Phong. Almost every visit to Quy Nhon involves taking the time to explore these structures. In mid-April 2021, he took advantage of a weekend to travel to Quy Nhon once again.

Binh Dinh in general, and Quy Nhon in particular, offer an abundance of places to visit, seemingly endless. With a large group of friends, it's challenging to escape companions, even when visiting Quy Nhon. Therefore, Lưu Phong managed to allocate only one day to visit the Cham towers. This time, he had companions, making the experience more enjoyable than the usual solo explorations.

Twin Towers – Banh It Tower: tower complexes in and around Quy Nhon

The Twin Towers are located right in the heart of Qui Nhon city.

Situated in the heart of Quy Nhon, the Twin Towers are a cluster of Cham towers influenced by Khmer architectural style. They were built during the constant wars between Champa and Chân Lạp in the late 12th to the 13th century. The roof of this tower complex differs significantly from traditional Cham towers.

Exiting the Twin Towers gate, turning right onto Tran Hung Dao Street and continuing towards Dao Tan, Nguyen Hue for about 20km outside the city, you'll find the Banh It Tower complex nestled on a high hill on the other side of the Kôn River.

Prominent Banh It Tower on a high hill

Years ago, there was a stone-paved path circling to the left of the hill to ascend the tower complex. After restoration efforts, a new system of stairs was built along the main axis: passing through the gateway tower (the lowest tower on the right side of the photo) and leading directly up to the main tower at the hill's summit. This is the largest surviving Cham tower complex in Binh Dinh.

The pathway leading to the main tower along the central axis of the tower complex

Binh Lam Tower – Canh Tien Tower: towers in the former central area of ancient Vijaya

Binh Lam Tower is situated in Binh Lam hamlet, Phuoc Hoa commune, Tuy Phuoc district, approximately 7km from Banh It Tower, taking a winding road through villages and fields. Considered the most balanced and beautiful among the remaining Cham towers in Binh Dinh, the current ancient tower is located amidst a residential area, adjacent to the village road.

Binh Lam Tower nestled within the hamlet

Leaving Binh Lam Tower, Lưu Phong and his companions followed road 636B to reach An Nhon town, then turned right onto QL1A to visit Canh Tien Tower. The tower stands on a high hill in the former capital of Do Ban - the ancient Champa, now in Nhon Hau commune, An Nhon town, Binh Dinh.

The majestic Canh Tien Tower, standing on a high hill in the ancient capital of Do Ban.

Duong Long Tower – Thu Thien Tower: bamboo bridge across the Kon River

After leaving Canh Tien Tower and heading back to QL1A, there are three tower complexes around An Nhon town. Phu Loc Tower is in Nhon Thanh ward, while Duong Long Tower and Thu Thien Tower are over 20km westward in Tay Son district. Lưu Phong prioritizes the two distant tower complexes in Tay Son, partly to reserve the late afternoon for admiring Phu Loc Tower in the sunset.

Front view of the Duong Long Tower complex

The Duong Long Tower complex consists of three towers, the tallest among the remaining Cham towers in the Central region, with the middle tower reaching nearly 40 meters in height. It also bears the influence of Khmer architecture, displaying a distinctive appearance compared to traditional Cham towers. Excavations at this tower complex have yielded numerous fragments of intricately carved stone decorations, some of which have been incorporated into the surrounding walls of the three brick towers.

The decorative stone fragments have been assembled into a fence behind the three towers.

Across the Kon River from the Duong Long Tower on the right bank, the Thu Thien Tower stands alone amidst rice fields. Restoration work on the tower began in mid-2020, initially expected to be completed by April 30, 2021. However, various factors have likely delayed the progress significantly. Despite knowing this, Lưu Phong still wanted to check the current status of the ancient tower's restoration. Moreover, the short distance from Duong Long to Thu Thien and the unique experience of crossing the Kon River on a long bamboo bridge added to the intrigue. The bridge connects Tay Binh commune (home to the Duong Long Tower) to Binh Nghi commune (home to the Thu Thien Tower).

An Chanh Bamboo Bridge spanning the Kon River, with the Thu Thien Tower on the distant mountainous bank

Silhouettes of people and motorcycles descend into the dry riverbed during the golden, windy evening.

Thu Thien Tower is nestled amidst lush green cassava fields along the riverbank. In mid-April 2021, the tower was indeed surrounded by scaffolding, but no workers were in sight, abandoned and seemingly untouched for a long time.

Thu Thien Tower amidst vibrant green paddy fields, the restoration work still in progress.

The stunning beauty of Phu Loc Tower during sunset.

As the late afternoon sky descended, Lưu Phong and his companions returned to the other side of the river, heading towards An Nhon town to catch the sunset over Phu Loc Tower. Riding on the refreshing QL19B road, formerly DT636, passing through Phu Cat Airport into An Nhon town. The April sunset cast a warm glow upon the red-bricked Phu Loc Tower atop the hill, creating a truly beautiful image against the evening sky.

In previous visits, Lưu Phong had climbed the hill to admire and touch the ancient tower, but this time, he reserved it for showcasing the beauty of the tower under the sunset to his companions, lacking the time to climb the tower again.

Phu Loc Tower on the high hill, glowing red in the April sunset.

Lưu Phong and his companion found a grassy spot by the side of QL19B road, sat down to enjoy the breeze, sip water, and gaze at the fading silhouette of the ancient tower as night fell. The silver moon rose gradually against the dark blue sky, even before the sun completely set. His companions seemed to thoroughly enjoy the scene, making him feel less uneasy about dragging 'someone else's child' around all day under the sun.

As the night descended, concluding a day with the ancient Cham towers.

Quy Nhon still holds many scenic wonders, and more friends are eagerly awaiting. Farewell to the ancient towers. Until next time.

Author: Ngo Hoa Nam
*This article is part of the Mytour Golocal program

Mytour Golocal is a blog program introducing beautiful destinations across Vietnam, within the framework of the Mytour Go & Share program. It's an excellent opportunity to promote local tourism to everyone. For each qualifying article, you'll receive VND 800,000 and a chance to become a contributor with Mytour. Details about the program can be found at: https://trv.lk/golocal

Article Contents

Tháp Đôi – Tháp Bánh Ít: tower complexes in and around Quy Nhon

Tháp Bình Lâm – Tháp Cánh Tiên: towers in the former central area of ancient Vijaya

Tháp Dương Long – Tháp Thủ Thiện: bamboo bridge across the Kon River

Tháp Phú Lốc: stunning beauty during sunset

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Frequently Asked Questions

What historical significance do the Cham towers in Binh Dinh hold?

The Cham towers in Binh Dinh, formerly known as Vijaya, were built between the 10th and 15th centuries and serve as a testament to the architectural achievements of the Cham civilization. They reflect the rich cultural history and influence of both Cham and Khmer architectural styles.

How can visitors access the Twin Towers and Banh It Tower in Quy Nhon?

Visitors can easily access the Twin Towers located in the heart of Quy Nhon city. To reach Banh It Tower, they should take Tran Hung Dao Street, continuing approximately 20 km outside the city to find the tower complex situated on a high hill.

What are the key features of the Duong Long Tower complex?

The Duong Long Tower complex consists of three towers, with the middle tower being the tallest among Cham towers in Central Vietnam, standing nearly 40 meters high. It features intricate stone decorations, showcasing the influence of Khmer architecture, making it a significant cultural site.

What is the restoration status of the Thu Thien Tower?

As of mid-April 2021, restoration work on Thu Thien Tower was underway, but the project faced delays. Scaffolding was visible around the tower, indicating ongoing work, although no active restoration efforts were observed during the visit.

How does the scenery at Phu Loc Tower change during sunset?

Phu Loc Tower offers breathtaking views during sunset, with the late afternoon sun casting a warm glow on its red bricks. This picturesque scene is enhanced by the surrounding landscape, making it a favorite spot for photography and reflection.

What should visitors expect when exploring the Cham towers in Binh Dinh?

Visitors exploring the Cham towers in Binh Dinh can expect a rich cultural experience filled with stunning architecture and historical significance. Each tower presents unique features and is surrounded by beautiful landscapes, making the visits both educational and visually captivating.