Exploring the Enchanting Alleys of Edinburgh

Have you ever found yourself... mesmerized by the narrow alleys of a foreign land? I believe you will, if you happen to wander into Edinburgh, the city of Scotland, with its distinctive and charming alleys.

I guess I've been captivated, as both times I had the opportunity to visit London for work, I extended my stay just to explore Edinburgh, and the second time was solely to return to the captivating streets of Edinburgh.

Perhaps it's the rugged terrain and rolling hills that have given rise to the winding streets, alleys that may slope up and down but exude a surprising elegance and uniqueness.

The narrow pathways, the spontaneously placed stairs here, evoke a city with many musical notes. My soul seems to wander in an untitled classical composition, perhaps for this reason.

I hope you'll feel the same when standing before the moss-covered steps, rising with a nostalgic melody, leading us up a slope that undoubtedly ends in a lively hubbub.

The ancient stairs connecting Royal Mile and Cockburn Street, as viewed from Cockburn Street, are named Warriston Close. Here, moss-covered steps resemble remnants from some untouched wilderness.

In this picturesque setting, a blonde-haired girl gracefully ascends the thousand-year-old steps. The autumn sunlight makes her hair gleam like a vivid flame standing out in a symphony of subdued tones.

Then, another narrow gray stone slope, barely two meters wide, named Anchor Close, like a sweet incision, gracefully divides a couple of silent ancient buildings. It seamlessly links Royal Mile and Cockburn Street, imparting a sense of a forgotten paradise.

Alleys steeped in poetic charm

Edinburgh, the city of literature, poetry, and music. Many timeless literary works originated here: the writer and poet Walter Scott, Conan Doyle with the detective stories of Sherlock Holmes, Robert Burns, Ian Rankin, Irvine Welsh, and the recent sensation J.K. Rowling with Harry Potter…

I find myself fortunate to reside in Advocate Close, a charming alley near the historic Royal Mile. A small, adorable bronze plaque at the entrance of the alley attracts numerous photo enthusiasts.

Mai, a Vietnamese college student majoring in English Language, explained to me that the plaque lists the names of famous figures, perhaps considered luminaries, who have lived on Advocate Lane.

In this lane, Mr. James Stewart once held the position of Lord Advocate (equivalent to the chief prosecutor), and the name of the lane originated from him.

The second person is Andrew Crosbie – a Scottish lawyer and a prominent figure of the 18th-century Scottish Enlightenment (culture) movement. An eminent resident of Advocate Lane before him was the painter to King William III and Queen Mary, named John Scougal.

And the last line reveals: to the west is the residence of Bishop Bothwell. Grateful to Mai for clarifying the perplexing board with a person with English proficiency like mine.

Not just Advocate Close, in this city of literature, there are many alleys commemorating artists, lawyers, nobility, writers, poets... or famous quotes, verses in Scottish language to mark the ancients.

Museums of writers, ancient bookstores, the Walter Scott memorial tower, costume festivals, traditional Scottish bagpipe tunes... have drawn tourists here.

Every winding street exudes innocence

In this festive city, even the seemingly urban alleys sport the eternal gray hue, adorned with charming colorful flower pots. Patient bicycles await their owners, and every now and then, a red-painted bench appears, charmingly placed as if curated by someone with a keen eye.

Occasionally, in each quiet and serene alley (except during the summer festival days), a bronze statue is unveiled. A historical figure from Scotland, a cute animal, a still life... large enough to admire and ponder, yet small enough for the residents not to feel disturbed.

For instance, on the cheerful Royal Mile avenue, there are bronze statues of famous figures, but in an unnamed narrow alley not far from the avenue, there are adorable animal statues or bronze sculptures that have taken on an ancient greenish hue.

I quietly stroll along the historic Royal Mile leading from Edinburgh Castle, branching through numerous alleys to Calton Hill, to listen to the streets without the hustle and bustle.

You can still savor solitude in the corners of the street with a few birds perched on a branch, listening to some hidden corner in a small alley echoing with the rhythmic footsteps. Just a little curiosity, and you might peer over that wall to see how the person on the other side looks.

However, I promise not to act in such a way, allowing people to climb the slopes of their aspirations, closer to the clear blue skies, while I embrace the tranquility of the local land.

You might notice, well, it's quite common, isn't it? Europe is always adorned with antiquity, classical beauty; it's the continent where poetry and art were born. Yet, to me, the narrow roads and small alleys in Scotland truly embody its essence. They gracefully meander along ancient paths that have been trodden for a thousand years by the locals.

And later on, they didn't redesign it by demolishing the old footsteps to create a neatly organized city like London with its chessboard-like streets and corners like any other metropolis.

The roads follow the primitive hill terrain and wind innocently, as if they have been doing so since birth.

Combined with the ruggedness of the gray stone-paved streets and the construction using materials unique to this plateau, these alleys possess both the solid hardness of stone and the classical softness reminiscent of the cultural breath of the wizard land, like characters stepping out of J.K. Rowling's pen in Harry Potter.

Our steps, yours, and mine, therefore, don't adhere to any specific formula. I dare to say that it's something you'll carry with you as you depart from this place.

By Theo, Saigon Correspondent

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