Buzz
Our journey by train from Athens to Kalambaka began early in the morning. Train travel in Greece is remarkably pleasant compared to Italy, as passengers are more polite and the atmosphere is much calmer. Nearly six hours passed as everyone gazed out at the picturesque scenery unfolding from the North to the South of this beautiful Greek landscape.
The most impressive moments were when the train traversed through the mountains, offering breathtaking views of valleys dotted with ancient churches, centuries-old olive groves nestled amidst fields of blooming flowers, and towering hills. By midday, the town of Kalambaka emerged amidst a valley surrounded by imposing rock formations. The sheer cliff faces, carved by nature over time, stood out starkly against the azure sky, making the streets below seem tiny and toy-like.
Monastery in the Sky
We booked a room in a quaint village nestled amidst this majestic rocky valley. The village remained cool and shaded, as the Mediterranean sun struggled to penetrate the towering rock formations. Most of the houses here are two-story structures, with red-tiled stone walls, spacious courtyards adorned with grapevines and rose gardens in the front. The entire hamlet clustered around a pristine white church.
Venturing out of the village and up into the mountains towards the rocky valley, the landscape becomes sparser, with scattered houses and lush foliage. Since it's autumn, the foliage boasts a stunning array of colors: green, gold, red, and brown, interspersed with golden wildflowers along the roadside. The atmosphere is serene, the locals friendly and unassuming, waving cheerfully at tourists, engaging in lively conversations over fences. As it's now late afternoon, goats and sheep are being herded back into the courtyards of their homes. The sounds of tinkling bells, bleating, barking dogs, and crowing roosters create a tranquil and cheerful ambiance.
For nearly 30 years, the inhabitants of the villages around Kalambaka have relied heavily on tourism, as the cluster of monasteries in the valley, recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, draws visitors from around the globe. Following a roughly 10-minute trail, we reached the first monastery, from where we could see the others perched atop the rocky outcrops.
The sunset painted the sky pink, and the sun slowly descended behind the mountains, casting rays of light that spread across the valley. People frequently paused to capture the breathtaking scenery in photographs.
In the 14th century, as the Byzantine Empire declined and monastic communities on the Athos Peninsula faced increasing attacks from Turkish pirates, they were forced to abandon the Iviron Monastery on the western coast of the peninsula in search of a safer haven. They relocated to this new area, characterized by spectacular rock formations near the Pinios River and Mount Pindus, to establish a refuge.
The monks began constructing the first monasteries in Kalambaka. The construction process faced numerous challenges, as all the architecture was perched atop mountain peaks, some as high as 400 meters above ground level. Yet, with steadfast faith, the monks diligently built over 20 magnificent monasteries named Meteora (meaning 'suspended in mid-air' in Greek).
Until just under a century ago, the only way to reach the monasteries was by climbing precarious rope ladders or sitting in a flimsy hanging basket. There were no means of access other than a network of ropes anchored to the rock face, acting as makeshift ladders for ascent and descent.
Nevertheless, these mountain monasteries managed to attract a thriving community by the late 14th century. Regrettably, the peaceful life of the community here was short-lived as violent upheavals erupted, plundering and pillaging their wealth, plunging the region into chaos and severe decline.
After enduring numerous ups and downs and tumultuous events, Meteora now hosts only six intact monasteries where monks and nuns reside. Today, the pathways to and from the Meteora monasteries have been improved, with carved staircases into the rock and no longer reliant on rope ladders, alleviating concerns about mobility for many sightseers.
The Magnificent Rocky Valley
At the onset of autumn, night falls quickly in Greece. Before long, the monasteries are illuminated with golden lights, and the scent of incense fills the air. From afar, the six monasteries, perched atop the rocky outcrops, resemble colossal pillars glowing amidst the night sky.
Indeed, this treacherously steep terrain serves as an ideal retreat for those seeking solace, meditation, and prayer. Meanwhile, we returned to our lodging for a brief respite before dining at a restaurant renowned for its grilled pork souvlaki and tzatziki appetizer, specialties of the region.
Tzatziki consists of creamy cheese mixed with salted cucumbers, deliciously fragrant without being overly rich. Travelers enjoy indulging in this appetizer with wine while awaiting the arrival of freshly grilled souvlaki. The main dish, souvlaki, is made from locally raised pork from the valley.
The fresh, succulent pork, combined with the signature blend of spices, emits a tantalizing aroma, served alongside french fries and lemon pepper, leaving little room for dessert.
The next morning, we set out on foot to explore the rocky valley. The initial stretch from Kalambaka to the Holy Trinity Monastery proved to be the most challenging as there's only one narrow uphill path spanning over two kilometers.
The path winds through olive groves and hazelnut orchards laden with fruit. Upon reaching the monastery gate, another set of stairs must be climbed to enter. As these monasteries adhere to Orthodox Christianity, women are required to wear dresses below the knee for entry.
Entrance fees to the monastery are optional, depending on the generosity of each visitor. This monastery boasts a magnificent viewpoint courtyard, offering panoramic views of the entire rocky valley, with four monasteries to the south and a glimpse of the town of Kalambaka below.
From the Holy Trinity Monastery to the other monasteries, visitors can simply follow the wide, gently sloping road, lined with stone benches for resting. Most people come not only to tour the monasteries but also to spend time admiring the scenery and taking photographs, as the blend of rock formations and lush greenery creates a picturesque landscape.
Every moment of the day in Kalambaka offers photographers the opportunity to capture unique images found nowhere else. It's regrettable that visitors are not allowed to take photos inside the chapels, despite the Byzantine-style churches boasting beautiful paintings and rare exquisite gold and silver artifacts.
However, each of these structures features scenic lookout courtyards providing views of the valley below. Perhaps this serves as the only form of entertainment for the famed ascetic monks residing here.
It's unclear how the monks we see in the monastery today differ from those of the past. They appear notably taller than ordinary folk, donning tall black hats and wide black cloaks, each sporting long hair and beards, exuding a dignified and imposing demeanor...
As reported by Doanhnhansaigon.vn
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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour
MytourDecember 31, 2015
