Chí Linh, located in Hải Dương, is not just a region abundant in historical relics, a sanctuary for many luminaries such as Trần Hưng Đạo, Nguyễn Trãi, Chu Văn An... It also boasts stunning landscapes with centuries-old pine forests, the widest maple forest in Vietnam.
Discovering the majestic Tam Ban maple forest

Vietnam, being a tropical country, has scarce maple forests, with only a few places in the Northern region like Pha Luông, Mộc Châu (Sơn La), Trạm Tấu (Yên Bái), Hoàng Liên Sơn (Lào Cai), and Thạch An (Cao Bằng) witnessing the growth of maple trees on mountains.
The Tam Ban maple forest alone spans an area of up to 100 hectares, belonging to the largest and oldest category in Vietnam.
Romantically adorned with sprawling roots and pine-covered hills
As the early morning sunrays gently dissipate the mountain mist, we embark on a ferry crossing the Thuong River from Dong Viet (Bac Giang) to the land of Chi Linh (Hai Duong). Waiting for us on the other side is our companion from Xa Hung Dao – a place closely associated with the life of the great general Tran Quoc Tuan.
Aware of our previous visits to Luc Dau Giang (where six rivers converge), the Kiếp Bạc temple, and the historical site of Con Son…, our friend decided it was time to lead us to somewhere new, both beautiful and romantic.
The ancient pine trees lining the roads of Con Son and Kiếp Bạc welcome us warmly. No one remembers when these pines began to flourish in this land, only that they offer travelers a glimpse of a dreamy atmosphere, reminiscent of the little Da Lat of the North.
Suddenly, our vehicle veers into vast fields adorned with ancient pine trees scattered throughout.
Beneath the pine trees lies a field of elegant white flowers, locally known as the 'root field' (located in Cong Hoa ward, Chí Linh town), spanning 18 hectares right next to the Con Son historical site. Countless tiny white flowers sway gracefully in the winter breeze. Some young ladies lean down to inhale the fragrance of this unique species.
The cold weather transforms the 'root field' into a stunning backdrop, becoming a popular spot for check-ins and wedding photoshoots for many young people from Hai Duong, Bac Giang, Bac Ninh, and Quang Ninh. The winding paths amidst the root field make us feel as if we've wandered into a realm of ancient fairy tales.
Far away, nestled beneath the majestic Côn Sơn mountain, lies a vast expanse of lush greenery, adorned with ancient towering pine trees whose roots embrace the earth with unwavering strength. Visitors revel in the boundless greenery and capture the most breathtaking snapshots.
The locals here are oblivious to the origins of the root field and pine hill. They simply pass down tales from generation to generation about the legend intertwined with the venerable Tran Nguyen Dan.
After a distinguished career in the political arena, in his later years, Tran Nguyen Dan retreated to the peaceful embrace of the Côn Sơn mountains. To create a truly secluded sanctuary, Tran Nguyen Dan personally planted the pine trees, while his wife cultivated delicate white flowers (known as root plants).
Today, the root field and pine hill not only provide scenic beauty, attracting tourists, but also contribute to the economic prosperity of the local community.

Scarlet Maple Forest
Leaving behind the root field and pine hill, we continue along Highway 18 towards Hoàng Hoa Thám commune. Turning onto the asphalt road marked by signs leading to Thanh Mai Pagoda, we traverse gentle slopes along the mountainside, occasionally passing by tranquil lake areas. Before long, we arrive at the foot of Tam Ban mountain.
As the car maneuvered through winding roads up the mountain, the cacophony below gave way to the serene emptiness of the present scene. Before us sprawled a forest, its leaves painted in hues of gold and crimson, gently swaying in the breeze.
In no time, we arrived at the parking lot of Thanh Mai Pagoda. Surrounding the patch of land were ancient trees, their leaves collectively turning yellow and then red, known locally as the apple tree.
The apple tree, belonging to the rose family, is a woody perennial with 3-5 lobed leaves that shed during the cold dry season. Its aging leaves boast vibrant shades of red, emitting a fragrant resin, hence dubbed the incense maple in China. And the maple tree, the maple forest, is a familiar sight abundant in the mountainous region of Tam Ban, Hoang Hoa Tham commune, Chi Linh.
According to authorities, the Tam Ban maple forest spans an area of up to 100 hectares, being the largest and oldest of its kind in Vietnam. Come winter (from December in the Gregorian calendar), the Tam Ban maple forest surrounding Thanh Mai Pagoda enters its season of changing colors, transitioning from green to yellow and then red. Towards late winter, the maple leaves turn crimson and fall, making way for fresh buds to sprout as spring approaches.
The colder the winter, the redder the maple leaves, crafting an enchanting natural panorama. No need to travel to Japan, South Korea, or China to behold the crimson maple forest; simply time your visit to Tam Ban during the maple leaf-changing season, and you'll find yourself immersed in the splendor of nature beneath the picturesque maple forest.
Some of the ancient maple trees require two people to embrace their girth. The mature maple leaves, now tinged with faded red, begin their descent, rustling as they fall near the temple gate, leaving behind bare branches.
In the early afternoon, our group embarked on the trail behind the temple to ascend the peak of Mount Tam Ban. Along the path were stunning golden and red maple leaves, reminiscent of a beautiful painting. Many adventure groups from Quang Ninh, Hanoi, Bac Giang... had been hiking since morning to capture the most picturesque scenery.
According to Phuong Bac (Chí Linh), in recent years, the beauty of the maple forest near Thanh Mai temple and the vast grassy field at the summit of Mount Tam Ban has attracted numerous young visitors for sightseeing, picnics, mountain climbing, photography, and paragliding.
The impact of tourism on ancient maple forests
Based on our research, the local authorities have collaborated with forestry officials to strictly protect the maple forest and regulate foreign visitors.
The village authorities have identified this as the rarest maple forest in Vietnam, creating a beautiful and unique natural landscape, hence imposing an absolute ban on deforestation. Patrol teams have also been established to conduct daily patrols to prevent any misconduct.

According to Ms. Duong Thu Huong - an official of Hoang Hoa Tham commune, the influx of visitors to Thanh Mai temple to admire the maple forest is a very promising sign, which could contribute to the development of local tourism.
However, due to the preservation of the temple area and forest in their pristine state, there are no accompanying professional services. Therefore, if tourists do not have good awareness, actions like littering, lighting fires, or cutting trees can have a negative impact on the landscape.
According to Nguyen Huong-Phuong Kim/Tuoi tre
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Reference: Travel Handbook from Mytour
MytourApril 11, 2019