Exploring the hidden gem of Khiva Island along the Silk Road

During our journey through the heritage cities of Uzbekistan, we mainly traveled by train. The trains in this country are quite modern and comfortable, but the landscapes along the way all seem similar, with vast deserts or endless cotton fields on either side. It's only when the train approaches the outskirts of a city that the houses, trees, and bustling markets emerge like a beautiful oasis.

Discovering Khiva Island, a Jewel on the Silk Road in Uzbekistan

Khiva is a renowned oasis on the Silk Road. In ancient times, merchants always stopped here before crossing the Karakum Desert to reach Persia. With a history spanning over two thousand years, Khiva enjoyed a glorious period, serving as the capital of many powerful dynasties. The island is divided into two parts: the outer town, known as Dichan Kala, formerly protected by a wall with 11 gates; and the inner old town called Itchan Kala, surrounded by massive brick walls (5 to 6 meters thick) built in the 10th century.

Itchan Kala is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its excellent preservation of a sophisticated urban complex showcasing typical Islamic architecture. Inside the towering walls, the old city resembles a string of precious jewels with numerous castles, shrines, and lofty minarets adorned with colorful tiles. Before visiting the heritage site, we paused for a moment on the bustling streets outside, captivated by the vibrant life here.

The narrow streets are bustling with bicycles, motorbikes, and occasionally horse-drawn carts laden with produce. The most distinctive street stalls sell flat round cakes baked to a golden hue, stacked high on plates mounted behind bicycles. Unable to resist the infectious smile of a young vendor, we sampled a few cakes. The aroma of freshly milled wheat flour permeates the air, making the cakes irresistibly delicious. The second most popular dish is expertly seasoned lamb grilled over charcoal, served with a splash of vinegar for an extra depth of flavor.

Stepping into Itchan Kala, everyone immediately forgets the allure of the lively streets outside. A city of grandeur and mystery, reminiscent of a Thousand and One Nights, unfolds before our eyes. It's hard to imagine such a splendid ancient capital thriving amidst the arid desert for over a millennium. Passing through the Eastern gate, the first structure to catch the eye is the two-story Royal Palace, a sprawling complex. Inside the palace, paintings and artifacts vividly depict the royal life of ancient kings and queens. More impressive than the palace itself is the mausoleum of Pahlavon Mahmoud. The mausoleum boasts stunning azure domes shimmering in the cool breeze. Its interior features intricate woodwork, glazed tiles, and meticulous metalwork. Today, the site is preserved as a cultural treasure of the Uzbek people.

After two hours strolling through the old town, everyone in the group is awe-struck. The density of ancient architecture here is truly remarkable. However, the city's layout is also remarkably scientific and aesthetically harmonious. While greenery is scarce, the streets remain cool and shaded. Despite the proliferation of tombs and temples, the atmosphere is light and airy. The bustling market streets are brightly adorned, showcasing prosperity. Most structures in Khiva are adorned with meticulously crafted brickwork. Every nook and cranny of the city is a part of the imperial architectural treasure.

Where the Desert Meets the Sky

Upon closer inspection, each castle in Itchan Kala reveals a myriad of colors, yet collectively, these hues represent the varied shades of the desert and the sky. Thus, amidst the vast expanse of land and sky, human creations appear both harmonious and striking. Knowing that in a short day, one cannot visit more than 50 major sites and 300 ancient houses, our group disperses to explore according to individual interests.

Some are captivated by paintings depicting scenes of trade, spice exchange, and silk pottery from merchants around the world; others focus on the intricate patterns on ancient structures; some spend hours in the mosques watching the elderly recite prayers and read scriptures... Yet regardless of their activities, all tourists are immersed in a space reminiscent of fairy tales.

The Uzbekistan-style fairy tale space even includes a university! Mohammed Rakhim Khan Islamic University not only teaches religious subjects (Quranic studies) but also conducts secular studies such as mathematics, astronomy, and geography. Alongside theological and scientific studies, students here engage in poetry composition, debates, and more.

This educational method differs greatly from other contemporary Islamic universities. Situated in the heart of the old town, it boasts the largest scale in Central Asia and stands as an emblem of 18th-century architecture. The facade of the structure is intricately adorned with green ceramic. Four corner towers grace the structure. It is divided into 76 blocks, each covered by a vaulted roof. The inner courtyard is square-shaped, featuring gardens and a fountain.

Islamic architecture in Itchan Kala is also notable for its 40-45 meter tall towers. These towers are entirely covered with luxurious glazed brickwork. Standing atop the towers provides a panoramic view of the Khiva oasis amidst the vast desert. Today, Itchan Kala is considered an outdoor museum – the national historical and archaeological museum of Uzbekistan. The appeal lies in the 300 families living in the old town, engaging in the efficient production and sale of handicrafts. We found ourselves wandering into a few shops and couldn't resist the mesmerizing stone souvenirs and beautifully carved products, despite their hefty price tags. Luckily, all the merchants we encountered in Khiva were cheerful, even with few purchases and many admirers.

Uzbek people are renowned for their utmost hospitality in Central Asia. At fruit and confectionery stalls, tourists are generously invited to sample without any pressure to buy! Life in Uzbekistan remains simple; over half the population relies on agriculture for sustenance, perhaps explaining the leisurely pace of life. Tea houses dot the streets of Khiva, where men gather, mostly clad in traditional attire – long coats from head to toe. Women also wear long dresses with waistbands and intricately embroidered headscarves.

Leaving the old market area, our group had to head to the cars to catch the train. Glancing back, under the vast azure sky, amidst the vast golden desert, the ancient yellow sandstone walls and azure domes truly create a unique landscape found nowhere else in the world.

By Nguyen Trung/ Saigon Entrepreneur

***

Reference: Travel guide by Mytour